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d.p

My 1971 521

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Just now, Crashtd420 said:

Are you using assembly lube?

 

Do yourself a favor and as you tighten things to spec keep spinning the motor...

If it ever starts to tighten up stop immediately and make sure nothing got out of place.....

 

I had a bearing move on me while trying to install a piston .... so just take you time....


yeah man but not when I measured the clearance.  Going to pop off the caps pull the crank and lube it all up. Where the book calls for oil can I substitute assembly lube?  

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Just now, d.p said:


yeah man but not when I measured the clearance.  Going to pop off the caps pull the crank and lube it all up. Where the book calls for oil can I substitute assembly lube?  

Yes... assembly lube just sticks around so that's why is good for initial startup....

 

But it's sticky.... 

Crank should be no issue...

Lube and install the caps..... 

 

What I did to keep the rod and bearing in place was once I installed the piston I flipped the motor on and use I wooden pole.... then rotated the crank to keep pressure on the bearing... then I was able to tap the cap on.... this was a set of h-beam connecting rods so i dont no if the factory one go together a little easier... again just be careful and rotate the motor as you tighten and you'll be fine......

 

 

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Also dont forget there is a step about setting up the center thrust bearing... I think your supposed to push the crank in a certain direction as you tighten.....

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Yeah I saw that.  
 

but before I get there have a question about rear main seal. I got an OEM seal but had to buy a felpro seal to get the side seals and nails.  
 

The side seals have a valley in them and one is square at the end and the other isn’t.  I assume the valleys face away from the bearing towards the block? And the beveled nails face away from the bearing and go in between the main cap and the side seal? 
 

49709647037_31d702596b_b.jpg

 

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Those are a little different then what I got for my L16..... they were just a solid rubber strip....

I would agree with how you described installing them but cant confirm that its correct...

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Ok just was reading and I think you have it backwards.... 

Says the nail goes between the seal and the cap..... 

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I think your parts are literally resting on the same page I am reading...

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Lol yeah that’s what I mean. Nail behind the seal in between seal and cap. 
 

how flush or forward should the rear main seal sit? Book says do it before installing crank. 
 

49709716972_8b548ecf16_b.jpg

 

 

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Looks good to me.... make sure you lube that before installing on the crank....

 

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12 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Looks good to me.... make sure you lube that before installing on the crank....

 


I did but it looks like I when dropped it in the block the edge peeled some of the gasket off.  Should I be worried?  I have another one if need be. You can even see near the top the indent it made on it.  
 

49708918438_76719e6533_b.jpg

 

Edited by d.p
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I swapped that seal out for another that is tighter around the crank.  That OEM one is loosey goosey. 

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Go the new mains and crank installed, spins freely with no binding.  Biggest bitch was the nails in the side seals on the rear main seal.  Fucking bitch to get those installed all the way. 

 

Moving on to the pistons now and wondering if I need to dip them completely in oil?  Mixed opinions on it but wondering what you guys have done?  

 

49720336628_c138755926_k.jpg

Edited by d.p
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You only need oil where parts are rubbing (rings) or it'll make a frigging mess while assembling. The piston pins should have assembly lube on them already, so align the ring gaps properly as per the manual and squirt some oil on them just before you tighten the ring compressor and install them. No need for oil all over the piston tops causing a smoky start up and fouling the plugs.

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I usually just rub oil on the cylinder walls before popping the piston in, if you catch my drift.

Edited by mainer311
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I always dip the pistons in a coffee can of oil before installing into the cylynder.  Messy yes but in 45 years I have not had a problem with any engines I have built.

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Thanks guys. 
 

Anyone know if I can fit a 75” TV w/box in the back of my truck? 

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It's 75" diagonally, so it says 65.4" wide. That should fit, but it depends  on how wide the packaging is.

 

If not, put the gate down, stand it up on end, and throw a ratchet strap behind it, and a couple over the top. It shouldn't go anywhere. The guy before me installed eye-bolts everywhere, so I have tie-down locations all over the place. Do you still have bed hooks?

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1 hour ago, mainer311 said:

It's 75" diagonally, so it says 65.4" wide. That should fit, but it depends  on how wide the packaging is.

 

If not, put the gate down, stand it up on end, and throw a ratchet strap behind it, and a couple over the top. It shouldn't go anywhere. The guy before me installed eye-bolts everywhere, so I have tie-down locations all over the place. Do you still have bed hooks?

 

Samsung had the box measurements and its 73.8" long and our beds are exactly 73" long.  I just got back from the store but they didn't have the one I wanted.   For sure it would fit either standing up with the gate open or flat on its side.  Hell I got the bed hooks, never getting rid of those.  

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Depending on how wide the box is, it should easily fit diagonally.  If your 521 has the evaporative emission system, put the front corner of the box in the right front corner of the bed

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Drop the tail gate and quit over think hauling a TV!  If I did not know better DP, I would think you lived in Rocket City (Huntville Alabama)!  LOL

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Like I said they didn't have the one I wanted so I didn't get one, otherwise I would have thrown it in the back of my truck.  I figure that eventually due to all this madness there will be deals to be had all over the place.  

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It's said that the Chinese character meaning 'crisis' also means 'opportunity'.

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1 hour ago, d.p said:

Like I said they didn't have the one I wanted so I didn't get one, otherwise I would have thrown it in the back of my truck.  I figure that eventually due to all this madness there will be deals to be had all over the place.  

 

There already are. Look at the auto manufacturers. Nobody is buying cars, so they're doing online purchases, 0% APR, and delayed payments for 90 days, along with cash back. It's crazy. I was seriously looking into trading my 2011 Sentra commuter car for a 2020 Sentra, but, I'm already paying for a Highlander.

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Haha I know this man.  You can lease Tundra/Tacoma's for under $300 a month right now and I always wanted one as a DD but doesn't make sense to have 2 pickup trucks.  Crazy deals are out there and only more to come if you aren't worried about your future income.   

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Even a week of no commerce will have vast implications on business in the future. Add to this the rest of the world also?? 25% of ALL flat glass production is consumed by the auto industry. About 900 kilos, 1,980 pounds of steel per average vehicle. 75% of ALL rubber goes into tires and replacement tires. And this is just vehicles! 

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