Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 4, 2019 Report Share Posted September 4, 2019 Yes, measuring the dimpled lash pads can be fun. Replacing rockers doesn't mean you need to replace the lash pads, but as Hainz57 said, if they grind the valve seats, you may need to make adjustments anyway. Do you think the shop you chose is capable of setting up the rocker geometry? 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2019 Yeah I trust them. They did my current head....took it all apart, valve job, valve seals, milled and put it all back together st 2/10 for me. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2019 Got the 510 alternator installed. It’s tight but it’s snug against the bottom water inlet bolt. Plenty of room on the fender side. I was reading somewhere that 35amp alternators have black plastic on the back and the 50amp ones do not. Any truth to that?? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 6, 2019 Report Share Posted September 6, 2019 On 9/4/2019 at 9:08 AM, d.p said: Looking to order parts and am wondering if I need to replace all my rockers? Almost all of them are missing some material, maybe 2 of them don't seem to have any damage. Run a good flat tappet oil with high ZDDP levels. These were run too long on the shit they sell today. 15w40 Shell Rotella T4 or Chevron Delo 400 is good enough. On 9/2/2019 at 8:59 AM, datzenmike said: Nissan switched to internally regulated alternators for all Datsuns for the '78 model year vehicles. That black plastic cover is (I think) used only on external regulated alternators. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 (edited) Got my lighting harness and a little confused on how to make it work with the stupid headlights buried in sheet metal. This is what I have. Male plug needs to go into low bean harness but the thing is so short the only place I can get it connected is inside the headlight space. But if I do that there is no way to feed the harness in or out of it to the other headlights. Anyone done this before or have any ideas? Edited September 7, 2019 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 Bigger picture. The inline fuse and ground are already wired to the battery and body so you can’t see them here. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 Could I cut the passenger side low beam harness and re-wire it in the engine bay? That would then allow me to plug the male harness in and mount the relays in the engine bay. Then I would need to figure out how to feed the female harnesses behind the headlights. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 7, 2019 Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 1 minute ago, d.p said: Could I cut the passenger side low beam harness and re-wire it in the engine bay? That would then allow me to plug the male harness in and mount the relays in the engine bay. Then I would need to figure out how to feed the female harnesses behind the headlights. You should be able to pull the stock ones right out there.... should be a grommet where the wires enter the headlight bucket.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 7, 2019 Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 You might have to take the entire light assembly out 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 CooL....do you know to release these fuckers? If I could get them out and feed the wire through without the harness that would work. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 7, 2019 Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 1 minute ago, d.p said: CooL....do you know to release these fuckers? If I could get them out and feed the wire through without the harness that would work. Usually a really small screw flat screwdriver or pin puller tool.... but you risk breaking the tab.... Just take the housing out it will be much easier unless the whole thing is rusted in there.... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 Housing is out but the only into in is from the top and the new harness won’t fit though the hole with the grommet removed. I think the only way is through the top. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 7, 2019 Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 10 minutes ago, d.p said: Housing is out but the only into in is from the top and the new harness won’t fit though the hole with the grommet removed. I think the only way is through the top. Well that's an issue if it physically wont fit through..... To release the clip go from the back side, slide something if thin and flat and it should easily pull out..... use a flashlight and you should see what I mean... Make sure you plug them back in correctly 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 7, 2019 Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 Hair pin with the plastic ends pulled off. They are very stiff and hard to bend. Push wire inwards to release the tang or barb on the plastic connector. Poke pin in from the front to hold the tang flat so the wire with connector can be pulled out to the rear without catching. Works like a charm. 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 7, 2019 Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 (edited) I didn't get here fast enough. I de pin the old connector and pull them out then pull them back . Take photos or labol them. route the new harness thru the hole the same way by depinning them. All you need is the pass side outter lamp 3 prong as a trigger for the new harness.. I use a tweezer by inserting it (one side of tweezers and push the little clip down then pull out. Looks like you have the 4 lite harness. Really the inners highs are fine already as they can go to 55-60 watt lamps already. I just get the 2 lamp harness. even after this it still might not work right as the 521 might by switchable power to trigger. My harness had a middle jumper I could swtch to get it right. My harness had ground wires to bolt to the frame. you is slightly different. So it made my harness switchbale POWER Edited September 7, 2019 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 (edited) I got it all installed and it works without issue. I used a small jewlery screw driver to pop the connectors out, run the wire through the hole and then put them back together. Only shitty part is the male connector is too short. Like 5" total so I have to run the one female passenger side oem connector outside the headlight bucket to connect it. Going to see if dapper can send me an extension for that one so I can route it inside the bucket instead. Because its so short the relays are just hanging loose cause I got no slack to mount them anywhere. Mine came with power to the battery with an inline 30 AMP fuse and a ground, both of which are hooked up. Red to battery and black to the body behind one of the relay screws. The only thing that is no longer are the grommets because there was no way I was going to get the wires in through them. Lots of extra wire except where I need it which I guess is good but it doesn't allow for the cleanest of installs. Low and high both work, whether it makes a difference or not I have no fucking idea. lol Edited September 7, 2019 by d.p 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted September 7, 2019 Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 I take the power from post on the starter as its nicer to hide the wires undernrath the batter tray. Sheepshank the extra wire(meaning lop it up and tape it so its a cleaner look. I routed mine low along with the existing harness under battery tray. If possible 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 7, 2019 Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 Holy shit! 13 posts in three hours on how to get a connector housing to fit through a hole. Glad you got it figured out. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 2 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Holy shit! 13 posts in three hours on how to get a connector housing to fit through a hole. Glad you got it figured out. Were just talking about it man. If this was in person it would be the same thing. Bouncing ideas off each other. Sharing knowledge and tips. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 7, 2019 Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 I would be out in the shop figuring it out instead of talking about it. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted September 7, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 Just now, Stoffregen Motorsports said: I would be out in the shop figuring it out instead of talking about it. Lol sometimes there is just no winning with you old timers. 2 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted September 7, 2019 Report Share Posted September 7, 2019 I can't even keep up with you guys. Miss a day of checking in and there's 47 new posts to read through. 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted September 8, 2019 Report Share Posted September 8, 2019 I strongly suggest putting the grommets back in. Just slice it on one side and work it back into the hole around the wires. It’ll stay in place and keep the wires from chaffing. 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted September 8, 2019 Report Share Posted September 8, 2019 This was a very entertaining read, good that you figured it out without cutting anything. I second putting the grommets back in, like he said above, slice one side and put the cut under the wires coming out. 2 Quote Link to comment
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