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My 1971 521


d.p

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I think  just lower it with the stock wheels as it will get the tire to the rim within reason using 3 inch algle blocks( Belltech 2602) in back and just turin the torsion bar screws out.

 

If you put the chevy ralley on there with 50 series you need to go lower to get the tire top near  to close to flush with the fender. then you have to get bigger blocks and reindex the torsion bar then other issues make proplems for a daily driver , to me is not worth it.

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Thanks dubdlux, I used a pry bar to get them off but still managed to jam the shit out of my index finger.

 

I don't know the build date, where can I find that? Got a link to the cube relay? I can do that no problem just need to know what to buy.

 

I really want to get that cigarette lighter working and whats odd is that the black wire in the picture below is hanging down from dash in my truck, its not connected to the back of the lighter like the picture shows.

 

cin01.jpg

 

 

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That's correct. The second pic is not correct for a 521.
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That's correct. The second pic is not correct for a 521.

 

What is correct?  I assume I need to find the LgR wire and source the correct lighter for the truck?  Took a look and there are more wires tucked up  behind it and one that looks like it connects to the lighter (#1 in the pic below). 2 is the antenna but no idea what 3,4 and 5 go to. 

 

30992416886_7a4417e38b_z.jpg

 

I think  just lower it with the stock wheels as it will get the tire to the rim within reason using 3 inch algle blocks( Belltech 2602) in back and just turin the torsion bar screws out.

 

If you put the chevy ralley on there with 50 series you need to go lower to get the tire top near  to close to flush with the fender. then you have to get bigger blocks and reindex the torsion bar then other issues make proplems for a daily driver , to me is not worth it.

 

Belltech 2602 is the part number for the blocks?  Google didn't return anything for them.  And I will lower it with the stock wheels because that's all I got right now, have a lead on some rallye wheels but they are a little far from me.  

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You can use the KC3300 relay from summit racing.

Check for 12 volts on the female bullet connector hanging down by the cigarette lighter.  Many Datsun 521 wires have a black plastic sleeve over the actual wire.

 

The build date is on a tag, on the drivers side door frame, toward the back of the cab.

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You can use the KC3300 relay from summit racing.

Check for 12 volts on the female bullet connector hanging down by the cigarette lighter.  Many Datsun 521 wires have a black plastic sleeve over the actual wire.

 

The build date is on a tag, on the drivers side door frame, toward the back of the cab.

 

This it?  https://www.amazon.com/KC-HiLiTES-3300-12V-Relay/dp/B0002MAE0M Got a pic of it installed in your truck?  

 

Bullet connector has 12 volts with the truck on so that's probably it? Build date is 11/70.   

 

I need the plastic switch for the heater and a replacement side mirror, or just the mirror but not sure I can source that.  Anyone have a lead on either?

 

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the cig lighter is the black wire I believe. Its on the Common circut meaning  Its has 12volts all the time.  When you push the cig plunger in it shorts thus heating the element.  Common circut on Datsuns means the cig lighter dome light and door buzzer most of the time.

 

 12volt with key ON is for radio or heater or soemthing else depending on the size of the wire.

 

 

thos eblack box relays you can get anywhere. most are made in China  but you can go to the Junk yard in the ignition elelctrical box are full of them. Gfind the Jap or German made one and stack them up!!!!!!!!!!!!

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the cig lighter is the black wire I believe. Its on the Common circut meaning  Its has 12volts all the time.  When you push the cig plunger in it shorts thus heating the element.  Common circut on Datsuns means the cig lighter dome light and door buzzer most of the time.

 

 12volt with key ON is for radio or heater or soemthing else depending on the size of the wire.

 

 

thos eblack box relays you can get anywhere. most are made in China  but you can go to the Junk yard in the ignition elelctrical box are full of them. Gfind the Jap or German made one and stack them up!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

#1 black wire? You're right, it does have constant power, connected it to the lighter and it worked.  Wonder why it was disconnected.   

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(picture of differential)

 

Normal. If front at the driveshaft is wet the pinion seal may need replacing. In any case if you buy be sure to empty and replace the differential oil with GL-5 80w90. There's no telling when it was replaced last. Should be checked every 15K and changed every 30K miles.

 

(picture of front trans and engine oil pan)

 

Looks like caked on dirt not wet with oil. This will power wash off. If there were fresh drips I would be more concerned.

 

 

(picture of transmission underside)

 

Bottom transmission pan is clean and any oil has transferred back from the engine by the wind. Again replace the transmission oil with GL-4 80w90 NOT GL-5. Check every 15K and change every 30K miles.

 

 

(picture of valve cover and starter)

 

Hard to tell. If dipstick has lost the rubber seal blow-by will wet the block nearby. Oil senders can sometimes weep oil. The fuel pump should have two gaskets and a plastic spacer between them. These can leak and also the pivot pin on the pump body. Best to power wash and de-grease with brake cleaner and watch for wetness... then fix. 

 

Over all I would just replace the valve cover gasket the biggest and most likely cause of an oil leak.

 

Last is the crank pulley seal. These get old and drip and the fan and normal air blowing past spreads it over the engine. Check behind the crank pulley for wetness or a drip. But do the valve cover first as oil flows down hill.

 

Revisiting this, its definitely leaking oil but not sure from where.   Looks to be maybe the head gasket?  Valve cover is dry, but its wet on the passenger rear side where the block meets the head and obviously below it.  dubdlux replaced pretty much every gasket/seal except for the head.  I found the plastic heater switch, but no way to attach it, does it use a screw?  

 

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There is a screw that goes in from the side of the fat part of the heater control lever.  I believe it is a #4-40 screw.

Before you put the heater knob back on, make sure the shaft it goes on rotates fairly easily.  it only rotates a 1/4 turn, but that is enough to go from full flow, to shut off.

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There is a good possibility that the truck is a "stock blue"  The paint looks to be in very good condition, but also it could have been repainted.  There is also a possibility that the truck lived a charmed life, and was garaged.   Are there some stickers on the top of the radiator support, one having some emission control information, and another with the paint code?

 

The wheels were repainted.  Stock, they are grey.

 

What do the floors look like in the truck.  How much rust damage?

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This it?  https://www.amazon.com/KC-HiLiTES-3300-12V-Relay/dp/B0002MAE0M Got a pic of it installed in your truck?  

 

Bullet connector has 12 volts with the truck on so that's probably it? Build date is 11/70.   

 

I need the plastic switch for the heater and a replacement side mirror, or just the mirror but not sure I can source that.  Anyone have a lead on either?

 

30727354160_9e6ffe6acf_m.jpg

 

31029342575_425e2cc875_m.jpg

These guys always have a ton of stuff on their website, though I've never purchased from them before.

http://www.new-datsun-parts.com/datsun-pickup-parts.html

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Hope you don't have to much OCD . Cause Datsuns at this age leak oil. Otherwise youll have to replace the head gasket if it really bothers you. Then next oil pan gasket. ooil sender switch may leak also. then the front and real seal.

 

 

I wish I had this truck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

I just leave my heater ON. as it don't put out much heat anyways but enough to keep me from freezing

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There is a good possibility that the truck is a "stock blue"  The paint looks to be in very good condition, but also it could have been repainted.  There is also a possibility that the truck lived a charmed life, and was garaged.   Are there some stickers on the top of the radiator support, one having some emission control information, and another with the paint code?

 

Yeah they are there but the paint code is blank where it usually would be.  

 

I couldn't find any evidence of a respray either but I am not a professional by any means.  

 

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Hope you don't have to much OCD . Cause Datsuns at this age leak oil. Otherwise youll have to replace the head gasket if it really bothers you. Then next oil pan gasket. ooil sender switch may leak also. then the front and real seal.

 

 

I wish I had this truck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

I just leave my heater ON. as it don't put out much heat anyways but enough to keep me from freezing

 

 

Going to make you wish had it even more because 99% of seals have already been replaced... head gasket the only that wasn't.   

 
New seals including rear main, timing cover, valve cover, valve stem, and oil pan (2010)
New oil pressure switch (2016)
New front main seal (2016)

 

So might as well do that one and button up whatever else I can find.   Also I think the heater is on already, but I would still like the switch to work.  What are people doing about radios in these?

 

 

More pics:

 

 

 

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The wiper arms on a 521 are just pushed on the post coming out of the cowl, and it is the same size as a lot of American cars.   Remember, the body dimensions of a 521 are measured in inches.

You can get new wiper arms at most any auto parts store, with a stronger (newer) spring.

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