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My 1971 521


d.p

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Yeah trying not to buy an Air fuel gauge unless I have to.    
 

Fucked with it some more this morning....Switched the pilot screw from 2 to 1 and went WOT for a minute or two and immediately checked the plugs. No difference whatsoever.  #2 still fouled.  

 

So I went ahead leaned up #2 a bit more and the truck is pulling HARD. I’m able to spin the tires super easy dumping the clutch in first.  I am sure it has more in it but not sure how to get it out. Still no idea why it’s fouling that one plug but I do like how much the truck is moving now. Ordered a new dizzy cap and rotor as well.  
 

Also swapped out the alternator for the rebuilt original one and it’s charging nice and quietly.  
 

 

Edited by d.p
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I think that means the main circuit Is probably where the problem is.... 

If it was your idle circuit the wot would have cleaned the plug....

You are having that place tune it right?

I'd call them up and see what they say.... plus they wont be able to tune it right if you have that issue...

Maybe they can fix that issue too....

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Yes and yes.  
 

Have to get it over there (70 miles one way) and he wants me to leave it so not sure how that is going to work unless I tow it or get it towed over there.  
 

 

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16 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Does it puff slightly on start up after sitting?


Yeap.  But I always thought that was because of the fuel I pump into it getting it started. Especially when it’s cold.  

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I'm trying to introduce the idea that a bad #2 intake valve seal may be allowing enough oil in to darken the plug.

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Just now, datzenmike said:

I'm trying to introduce the idea that a bad #2 intake valve seal may be allowing enough oil in to darken the plug.


thats what I was thinking as well. That or a bad oil ring on #2? Smoke at startup is white though with no hint of blue.  It doesn’t smoke at all when moving.    

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8 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Is this the engine you just rebuilt?  Have you driven this enough to break in the rings?


yeah it is. I’ve driven it for maybe 100 miles or so. Ripping it around in that 100+ miles though.  

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Are you using a 'break in' oil???? I don't recommend this as it's more for new car owners that just buy and drive them. It speeds up the break in process. Break in oil isn't strictly needed by someone who rebuilds and then deliberately drives it with the intent to seat the rings vigorously. Oil consumption is usual during the break in but stops soon after. 

 

Can the carburetors be swapped? to see if the #4 plug darkens? Or.. the stock Hitachi and intake put back on briefly?

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12 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Are you using a 'break in' oil???? I don't recommend this as it's more for new car owners that just buy and drive them. It speeds up the break in process. Break in oil isn't strictly needed by someone who rebuilds and then deliberately drives it with the intent to seat the rings vigorously. Oil consumption is usual during the break in but stops soon after. 

 

Can the carburetors be swapped? to see if the #4 plug darkens? Or.. the stock Hitachi and intake put back on briefly?


Using ROTELLA diesel oil 15W-30 IIRC.   I could swap the carbs but the stock hitachi long gone.  I have my Weber 32/36 and l16 intake I could put on.    

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39 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Are you using a 'break in' oil???? I don't recommend this as it's more for new car owners that just buy and drive them.


Dude, no one puts break-in oil in a new car. It’s basically just high zinc stuff anyhow, which we should be using all the time. 

Edited by mainer311
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Who said anything about a new car? No they wouldn't add 'break in oil' to a new car engine because there is likely something already in there from the maker. I don't know if the maker would admit it anyway. The object is to speed up the break in before the first oil change. It's already in there for Joe Blow who just buys a new car and then baby's it around. But NO I wouldn't use such a thing on any engine that I built because I would be driving in a manner that breaks it right away. You can still buy 'Break In Oil' over the counter. Yes they have elevated ZDDP (mostly for cam and rockers) but normal mineral oil to allow wear to quickly seat rings. No one uses synthetic oil during a break in because it will prolong the break in, perhaps preventing it.   

 

https://www.royalpurple.com/product/engine-break-in-oil/

 

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2014/11/13/engine-break-guide-10-tips-help-properly-break-engine/

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I beak my rebuilt engines in with Shell Rotella® T1 Straight Grade Heavy Duty Diesel Motor Oil.  this is in for the first 500 miles and I always install new cams on my engines so proper break in procedures are strictly followed.  The first oil change at 500 miles I put in the Shell Rotella® T4 Triple Protection Diesel Oil.  This is what I run in all my Datsun & Nissan engines.  Regular 3,000 miles oil and filter changes grease all zerks check all other fluids and drive.

 

I do not buy high dollar magic shit.

 

 

Edited by Charlie69
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Nope that's for the lazy. If you know what you're doing (technique) you don't need anything special other than a good ZDDP level oil for the break in.  

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Goddamn alternator not charging again.  What the fuck could be causing this?  I tried testing using my multimeter but had a hard time determining if and where there was a voltage drop.  

 

IGN light is off so the truck thinks its charging but the voltmeter says otherwise.  Under load it stays right around 12.2-4 volts, no load its right around 12.1 and never even gets close to 14 so that tells me the alternator isn't charging the battery.  This is with the original reman'd alternator that squealed, no changes to the truck other than not driving it for 4 or 5 days.   Same alt that the alternator shop was good and working but now that its back in my truck and a week later it isn't doing shit.  This has got to be a wiring problem no?  Otherwise I am not sure what else it can be.  

 

   

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It couldn’t be a faulty gauge could it? If you have an Advance or Autozone near you, take it by and let them check it while it’s still in the truck and see if they can tell you what’s going on. 

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5 minutes ago, NC85ST said:

It couldn’t be a faulty gauge could it? If you have an Advance or Autozone near you, take it by and let them check it while it’s still in the truck and see if they can tell you what’s going on. 

 

I have two gauges, 1 cig lighter volt reader and an autometer gauge and they both show the same thing.   I thought about taking it over to the alternator shop that cleaned it up for me and see if they can help.  

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always check your fuses first and reseat them. if the alt dont get 12volt to the winding it wont work. But I think the light would be on.

 

those light light indicaters work good and it it shows it then check T connector and reseat the connectors and fuses

 

then take it off and get it tested. with a load

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

always check your fuses first and reseat them. if the alt dont get 12volt to the winding it wont work. But I think the light would be on.

 

those light light indicaters work good and it it shows it then check T connector and reseat the connectors and fuses

 

then take it off and get it tested. with a load

Did you test your fuses on your Toyota?

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18 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Do you have a multi-meter? You can check it with that to rule out the gauge.

 

 


Yeah I do and I tested it as well as the battery/alternator shop and it’s just not charging.  I tried to test voltage drop but couldn’t figure how to do that exactly. 

 

Trying to figure out why but right now it’s a guessing game.  The only thing I can see is the T connector wires are frayed so I am going to fix that and see if it makes any difference and change all the fuses.  

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

FACF6F81-DC09-4C08-9F8C-575B718447A7.jpeg

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Should I be able to turn the alternator pulley by hand?  I thought I read somewhere that I shouldn’t be able to  

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