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My 1971 521


d.p

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Is it stamped with a W or weber and it should say made in Spain somewhere. If its just a sticker, sorry to tell you but you can have a fake or copied weber, made in China crap, and this could be the problem why its idling like that. Go on line and type fake 32/36 weber and you will pics of real vs fake.

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Is it stamped with a W or weber and it should say made in Spain somewhere. If its just a sticker, sorry to tell you but you can have a fake or copied weber, made in China crap, and this could be the problem why its idling like that. Go on line and type fake 32/36 weber and you will pics of real vs fake.

 

Its stamped and has a W sticker.  Ill take a pic.

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Personally My truck does this  all the time and I just live with it .

maybe soemone bent the butterfly when putting that 12/14mm nut on and turning the shaft

 

maybe grease up the cable

 

adjust the tension on the throttle cable so maybe ita a little looser then lock it down

 

you can alwasy sell it if it drives you crazy. this is a 45yr old rig.soem just run better than others but to me it a cable binding type ,reset return issue

 

 

The weber is real I dont know why people keep saying if fake , its obvious it a tru weber

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weberdirect but I got mine from webercarbsdirect

...go on line and type does, webercarbdirect sell fake weber, the first site is a yotatech site and people complaining that they sell fake webers. The real weber from I read and saw in mine has a stamped W and weber on top of carb, need to take out the air filter to see. It should also have a made in Spain stamp. Not W red sticker.
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Personally My truck does this  all the time and I just live with it .

maybe soemone bent the butterfly when putting that 12/14mm nut on and turning the shaft

 

maybe grease up the cable

 

adjust the tension on the throttle cable so maybe ita a little looser then lock it down

 

you can alwasy sell it if it drives you crazy. this is a 45yr old rig.soem just run better than others but to me it a cable binding type ,reset return issue

 

 

The weber is real I dont know why people keep saying if fake , its obvious it a tru weber

 

Yours does the same shit?   

 

Loosened up the throttle, will try greasing it.  webercarbsdirect going to send me another one so will try that and if it dont work truck going off a cliff.  

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Send what another carb?No way

 

I can put a different carb on a get a different recaction also just adjust best you can.

soemtimes the idle jet size might make a difference but looks to be the return is the issure. I just hit the gas and it will return to the constance low rpm.

 

if this really bothers you maybe you should have NOT bought a old datsun.Its just the way it is with old cars

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Return?  The throttle returns to where it cant move any further and yet the ilde would still sometimes be super low or higher than normal.  So if its at the throttle stop how can it idle lower than what its tuned to idle at?  Too little/much air or fuel? Vacuum leak?

 

Shit is just not consistent at all and I find it hard to believe its expected with these trucks.  

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It’s real. Stamped on the top as well as “made in Spain” on the front.

 

Fuel pump Matt? Do they go bad? I can try replacing it. And the only thing I would swap is this truck for a new Tacoma. My son wants to drive this thing when he turns sixteen but no way in hell ima fight it for that long.

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I would only buy my Weber carbs from Pierce Manifolds if I were to buy one.

The idle mixture screw should be set at the smoothest idle, it has nothing to do with turns in or out, it has to do with smooth idle.

That video link doesn't work, it sends me to a sign in page.

Did you check the PCV valve, when that goes bad though it normally would send the idle thru the roof, but it still should be checked, when you put your finger on the end and plug it the idle should not change as it is too small of a leak.

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I would only buy my Weber carbs from Pierce Manifolds if I were to buy one.

The idle mixture screw should be set at the smoothest idle, it has nothing to do with turns in or out, it has to do with smooth idle.

That video link doesn't work, it sends me to a sign in page.

Did you check the PCV valve, when that goes bad though it normally would send the idle thru the roof, but it still should be checked, when you put your finger on the end and plug it the idle should not change as it is too small of a leak.

 

Sorry video was private, I made it public so you should see it now.  

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Return? The throttle returns to where it cant move any further and yet the ilde would still sometimes be super low or higher than normal. So if its at the throttle stop how can it idle lower than what its tuned to idle at? Too little/much air or fuel? Vacuum leak?

 

Shit is just not consistent at all and I find it hard to believe its expected with these trucks.

...how many old cars have you had? These vehicle s are over 40 years old. Something is always going to go wrong, its always in progress. Hardly is the case with you set it and forget it. One minute something leaks, next it may overheat, next you will squeak, then u joints will go out, then maybe your heater, maybe a short with wiring, and so on and on.
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They are not that bad racerx, but one has to get to the point where when they drive it and hear a noise that they know what the noise is and fix it before it becomes an issue.

Also it helps to make them simpler, like converting over to the matchbox electronic ignition, that is a must do upgrade, also I have had nothing but issues with all down draft carbs, I have one Weber that I bought new from Pierce Manifolds, it is on my L320 that I wrote this article about, it runs better than the stock rebuilt carb did, but I have Dual SUs waiting to be put on it if I ever get back to that project.

I have dual SUs on my 1971 Datsun 521 work truck, I daily drive it and I mean work truck, you likely have seen some photos of the loads I put on that truck, here is a recent one.

DSCN7200.jpg

 

DSCN7199.jpg

These trucks are fairly dependable once one gets them to daily driver status, every couple years I have to do something major, but I only have been towed home once in over 20 years in any of my Datsuns, the rest of the time I figure out what is wrong with it on the road and limp home if I cannot actually fix it.

 

I have made a lot of upgrades to this truck, matchbox distributor, internally regulated alternator, front disc brakes, power brake just this year, dual SUs, 1986 720 5 speed transmission, electric brakes for the trailer that is almost connected to this truck, these are all upgrades that made this truck better, I also have power steering, but this upgrade has caused me a lot of headaches, I have to repair the frame in that area every couple years, but I am likely fixing that issue permanently this winter, anything that that you don't have to deal with anymore is going to make these trucks more dependable like the Matchbox distributor and the internally regulated alternator. 

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First old car but don’t DD it at all. Just drive it every once and awhile and don’t want to fight it every time I decide to take it for spin. Don’t know anyone who would jump on that grenade if they didn’t have to.

 

You have to get it to daily driver status before it will be dependable, you are learning as when you first came here to Ratsun you didn't know shit, we could not even make you understand about the brake pushrod till you finally took a photo of it so we could point to the issue.

Maybe you have a bad carb, they are sending you another one, maybe that will fix the issue you are having now.

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Wayno, actually my 510 has been a DD for 15 years or so. I do agree you have to dial it in. I guess what I'm getting at is that these cars r 40 years old and more than likely one will need to work hard at it to make it a DD.

 

If they sit for a long time(like in a field) bad stuff happens, the fluids either dry out or get contaminated, most(me also) do not do what is needed to reduce the effects of what happens when one of these trucks sits out in the weather on the side of someones house under a tree, just having that crap fuel evaporate in the carb has consequences, they don't run right anymore, and maybe never will run right without a new carb.

The brakes seize, the clutch master/slave seize, the e-brake being on for so long it will not release, the gear oil sitting in the same place for so long that all the metal above the gear oil rusts, sometimes so bad that the transmission/rearend doesn't last long even when one puts new fluids in them.

Sometimes they are left without antifreeze or even water in the block, that can be very hard on everything, all the seals dry out and everything starts leaking, it's never ending until one gets everything replaced.

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Truck runs. It was running when he got it. just worried about little leaks and stuff got him 3 stipes backwards. head chan. now front cover bad ect.... should have never touched it

 

I think its a OCD thing or just used to Fuel injected cars.Used to new cars

 

If one grews up with a modern fuel injected car, getting a old points ignition carborated  truck with Kingpins is usually going to be a truck that ends up on side of the house with moss.

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Truck runs. It was running when he got it. just worried about little leaks and stuff got him 3 stipes backwards. head chan. now front cover bad ect.... should have never touched it

 

I think its a OCD thing or just used to Fuel injected cars.Used to new cars

 

If one grews up with a modern fuel injected car, getting a old points ignition carborated  truck with Kingpins is usually going to be a truck that ends up on side of the house with moss.

 

Regardless of what I have done or what may or may not happen with this truck is irrelevant to the problem at hand.  I just want the fucker to run 99% of the time, is that too much to ask?   And you yourself said yours doesn't even do that.  And yeah it ran when I got it and it runs now just not as well I as I would like.  Even more so you and I both know even if I didn't put a finger this truck would still give me or anyone else fits just as every other 521 does.

 

And it will never end up on the side of my house gathering moss because I give a shit about the appearance of my house and yard.   

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