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My 1971 521

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Thanks, just wondering if there was a preferred brand for these, like bosch or some shit like that. 

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I always like the Bosch Micro (ones made in Belguim ) but I rarely seem them, now most made in China. They were the best but EXPENSIVE..

 

Now I just buy a shit load of whatever brand when I order from Rockauto.com  just change them out more.

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Cool..but if the wiper isn't making contact with the windshield then I probably need new arms? Anco 41-03 looks to be the ones I need.   

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There is a 1/32" hole in the top of the block oil gallery (directly above the oil pressure sender) that lines up with one in the bottom of the head to provide oil to the cam. It is extremely well sealed because the oil is under pressure. Head gaskets don't leak oil. They are just too well sealed.

 

Clean the engine and watch daily to see where it's coming from. Oil migrates far from the actual leak. It could be the front of the valve cover and it seeps and runs around to the sides pushed by gravity and wind. Could be the fuel pump gaskets. Could be a leaky oil pressure sender. Could be the seal in the top of the dip stick. Clean and spray down these areas with carb or brake cleaner and let dry. Every day inspect for oil wetness until you find it or them.... or just start replacing everything.

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There is a 1/32" hole in the top of the block oil gallery (directly above the oil pressure sender) that lines up with one in the bottom of the head to provide oil to the cam. It is extremely well sealed because the oil is under pressure. Head gaskets don't leak oil. They are just too well sealed.

 

Clean the engine and watch daily to see where it's coming from. Oil migrates far from the actual leak. It could be the front of the valve cover and it seeps and runs around to the sides pushed by gravity and wind. Could be the fuel pump gaskets. Could be a leaky oil pressure sender. Could be the seal in the top of the dip stick. Clean and spray down these areas with carb or brake cleaner and let dry. Every day inspect for oil wetness until you find it or them.... or just start replacing everything.

 

Valve cover and head are dry as a bone.  Its wet above the dip stick/oil pressure sender but below the head, well where the block and head and meet its wet too.  Its only wet below the red line so I doubt its the dipstick or oil pressure sender (just replaced).  

 

Will spray it down today and keep an eye on it. 

 

30942719801_1dfd9941a6_z.jpg

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Door hinges, passenger side upper hinge has the retainer clip thing that makes a horrible noise when opening the door.  

 

Drivers side doesn't have it all, can I just remove/cut it from the passenger side? 

 

Passenger:

31023860816_d1fabc83ed.jpg

 

Driver:

30945474701_1aa14f781d.jpg

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Rear 3" blocks, bump stops removed. Front is torsion bars loosened all the way, bump stops replaced with Prothane 3/8 x 2"

universal bump stops (had to bore out the hole to mount the front bump stops.) Replaced 4 shocks with Monroe that were listed for Ford Pinto. 14x6 wheels with 205/55 tires. Sorry for throwing my picture on your thread. Hope it helps for ride height and wheel size reference

 

 

84343207.jpg

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The "retainer clip" is actually a spring, that cushions the door coming against the hinge stop as the door is opened.  It is good thing to have.  put some grease on the inside of it, or better, clean the roughness off the inside of it, then grease it.

 

The drivers door had it, but part of it broke off.

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No worries dude, but damn seems like a lot of work to get it low.  I would even want to go lower than you but not sure I want to do all that now.  

 

Whats the easiest way to clean the inside of that spring?  Do I need to take the door off the hinge?  

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I believe it's easy to remove that door clip without removing the entire hinge. If I remember right you can just take the 2 center bolts out...

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3 inch is good enpugh and turning the Square bolt out to lower front is EZ!!!!!!!!!!

 

just grease the doorhinge or WD and see what that does.

 

removing door alwasy seems to never go right installing them back on. Lowereing the truck would be ezer

 

 

remember Belltech 2602 for the rear is 3 inch 2deg

 

photo above with lowering blocks he has smaller rims and lower profile tires so he stall has the gap in fenders. yours will look better as your tires are taller

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3 inch is good enpugh and turning the Square bolt out to lower front is EZ!!!!!!!!!!

 

just grease the doorhinge or WD and see what that does.

 

removing door alwasy seems to never go right installing them back on. Lowereing the truck would be ezer

 

 

remember Belltech 2602 for the rear is 3 inch 2deg

 

 

Got it but I can't find that part, got a link to it?  And it looks to me like the dipstick is leaking where it goes into the block, anyone know if that is an easy fix?  

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I think you can buy new dipstik holders or housings. I would High temp black Permatex or JB welds seal it myself.

 

 

see what others says.

Daniel ? Wayno is has tons of 521s and more of the expert on these trucks

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Got a link for those lowering blocks? 

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WD-40 is the perfect product, it doesn't cure the problem so you have to re-apply it every couple of weeks and then buy more product. WD-40 is just mineral oil and an aromatic hydrocarbon solvent packaged and sold for too much. It works and is easy to use but grease is much more permanent. White lithium is dry and does not attract and hold dirt as easily.

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So I can re-index and throw the blocks on the rear and call it a day?

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rears are EZ to do.

 

get jack stands under frame and put the block on (make sure you angle them the right way)

 a air gun would be good as those nuts get hot taking them off.

 

front :I would loosen the top nut and get it near the end of the bolt/ then turn the bolt till you get it down far as you can till the other nut hits it .

You can can do this now in the drive way. Jack up the front  turn the torsion bar square nut.   Cost nothing

 

I would not reindex it unless you want to go lower.

If reindexing I would put it back in the stock setting then pull the torsion bar from the front but I kinda forgot how me and Icehouse did it.

 

 

oh i removed the rubber bushing in front the bump stop. youll see it by the shock, just to give soem clearance

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You don't necessarily have to re-index. That is only needed if you should run out of adjustment. Lowering 3" does more for looks than ride quality. Try it and see but realize that lower gets a worse ride unless you are under 25 and don't care. ANY lowering or raising will throw the toe alignment out of whack. Make sure you correct this to keep your truck safe to drive in rain or snow/mud. Camber is also affected and both will wear the tires out on the edges.

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Which top nut? I can adjust the ride height in the front without re indexing it?

 

Also Driver side door handle shit the bed today. Outside handle stopped working...Screw (screw with a bunch of washers on it)that allows the plastic arm to release fell out. I was able to save it but the nut is gone. Going to be bitch putting that screw back in with the nut on the backside. Also the door card is all dead on he backside and the metal clips holding it on pretty much detached from the card. Which sucks.

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Datzenmike, post a photo so I know what I am looking at.   Lubed up the passenger hinge and its all quiet now so that is good.  

 

Anyone have the piece circled in red?  Seems like at some point it was lost on my truck and someone made one out of a screw and washers which fell apart today.  

 

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My first question would be why is it puking out of the dipstick in the first place, it should not do that at all because the valve cover vent should relieve all block pressures caused by blow-by, now if the valve cover vent has been plugged for any reason, then the oil dipstick tube is the only thing left to vent the block.

Has the valve cover vent been plugged/deleted?

Is there any type of restriction if it is still being vented to the air filter housing?

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My first question would be why is it puking out of the dipstick in the first place, it should not do that at all because the valve cover vent should relieve all block pressures caused by blow-by, now if the valve cover vent has been plugged for any reason, then the oil dipstick tube is the only thing left to vent the block.

Has the valve cover vent been plugged/deleted?

Is there any type of restriction if it is still being vented to the air filter housing?

 

Where exactly is the valve cover vent?  It just looks to be coming out of the base of the dipstick where it goes into the block.   Earlier today I had a hard time starting and when it did turn over it spewed white smoke out of the exhaust which it has never done.  I parked it in the garage after scooting around all day and only two drops of oil are on the garage floor after sitting for 3 hours or so.  

 

I was able to fix my drivers door, removed the 3 bolts holding the release mechanism and the 2 lock bolts which allowed me to pull the release down low enough to get to the back of the arm where the PIN goes, otherwise its nearly impossible to get to.  Put a locking washer on the back end and all is well for now.  Got a line on a used mechanism as well so will probably just pick that up and replace the PIN when the time comes.  

 

 30957011582_07b6ec44bb.jpg

 

Anyone replaced the back of their door card?  I have enough of the clips but the corkboard, cardboard whatever has seen better days.  

 

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Gorgeous day here in DC Metro...

 

30957011732_99b9ab9a72_z.jpg

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The vent is on top of the valve cover, in stock applications the vent is piped from the valve cover to the air filter housing via a rubber hose of some type, I don't have anything stock to take a photo of.

See the rubber hose going from the middle of the valve cover to the back of the rear SU carb, that is my vent hose going to the rear air filter.

DSCN5706.JPG

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