My 1971 521

[mainer311]

I had to file mine flat when I redid it. It was pretty bad.

[d.p]

How big of a file did you use?    

 

I can buy a new flange for $35 and then have a muffler shop make me a new down pipe? 

 

Edited September 16, 2018 by d.p

[datzenmike]

 

Smack with heavy mallet while it's hot.

[d.p]

Not sure that would work and I only got a hammer.  that corner is just warpeed, much thinner that all the rest of that flange.  The dude who Mike sold his flanges told me $35 for a new one.   I will swing by the machine shop tomorrow to see if they can help or just order a new flange and get a down pipe made.  Not worth my time and effort to hopefully bang the shit out of this in the hopes of it getting flat.  

 

Lucky for me I have spare manifold so I can just use that to see if it seals but I have taken that shit apart like 10 times already to no avail.   

Edited September 16, 2018 by d.p

[d.p]

Pile it on, fucking studs backed out so no I got a manifold with 1 stud in it.  How is that even possible?  At this point I might just try a pass through screw.  

[Charlie69]

Mike Klotz makes exhaust flanges that are thicker than stock.  He makes them in two flavors mild steel and stainless steal.  Easiest to contact him thru Blue Hands Inc.

[d.p]

I tried everything to no avail, it will leak no matter what.  Tried filing it, hammering, it using nuts and bolts instead of the studs but no matter what it leaked.  I wonder if it leaked the entire time I just never noticed it? 

 

As far as the flange it says on his site he sold that mold... I reached out to the dude who has it now and its $35 shipped with a y pipe. 

[mainer311]

I used a pretty wide file. Don’t bother with that little one you have. It would take days.

 

I’d spring for the thicker flange and then never have to bother with it again.

[datzenmike]

3 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Mike Klotz makes exhaust flanges that are thicker than stock.  He makes them in two flavors mild steel and stainless steal.  Easiest to contact him thru Blue Hands Inc.

 

 

They are this thick...

[d.p]

This is what I bought from the guy who bought the mold from Mike for $90.   

 

Martin Guerra clevermartin01@gmail.com

 

[]2eDeYe]

That is sexy. 

[d.p]

Yeah it is, welds look great.  

 

Question on how to get this welded and installed.  Does the manifold need to come off my truck?  Or can a competent exhaust shop make this work without removing it?  IE line it up with the manifold on the truck, weld this shit and mate it to my already existing exhaust? 

[Crashtd420]

They shouldn't have to remove the manifold... I would take what you get to the exhaust shop.... it will be easier to line everything up and tack weld in location then pull the collector off to fully weld .. 

[d.p]

Aight so found a shop but they don't do tig welding, only mig.  Does it matter?  

[Crashtd420]

1 hour ago, d.p said:

Aight so found a shop but they don't do tig welding, only mig.  Does it matter?  

Mig should be fine for the collector.. if you had to weld the actual manifold then I would say tig.... 

[d.p]

29 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Mig should be fine for the collector.. if you had to weld the actual manifold then I would say tig.... 

 

[DanielC]

I replaced the exhaust system on two of my 521 trucks.   See this thread:

https://ratsun.net/topic/61167-how-i-replaced-a-521-exhaust-system/

 

i would strongly suggest you put a bolt in flange about 18 inches down the exhaust pipe from the lower manifold flange.  Then you  only have to remove that part of the exhaust system to pull an engine, or drop the transmission for a clutch change.

Recently, I put a L-20-B engine in one of my 521 trucks, and used the round bottom port L-20-B exhaust manifold, and I just had to make the short downpipe to put the engine in Ratsun, (my name for that truck).

 

[d.p]

I know what you mean, that is where I cut my exhaust to get the manifold/downpipe out in one piece from the engine bay.  I will see what the shop can do for me but whatever makes it easier to get that shit out I am all for. 

[Charlie69]

On 9/17/2018 at 5:43 AM, d.p said:

This is what I bought from the guy who bought the mold from Mike for $90.   

 

Martin Guerra clevermartin01@gmail.com

 

What size pipe fits this good looking flanged collector?

[d.p]

1 5/8” on the flange side and 2” on the bottom. 

Edited September 23, 2018 by d.p

[Charlie69]

Perfect Thank you.

[banzai510(hainz)]

This is awesome that some one makes this.

People should buy these and get spares as most Y pipes or now NLA. esp for the 510 and 521s.

 

I look on Rock auto as what Datzenmike did and the 240sx Y pipe are NLA also what I can see

 

only inprovemnt would be making is where the Y end meets to make a little longer as the extension pipe tp fit over before one welds it up

[mrbigtanker]

Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr

 

Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr

 

Here you go. this is my last warranty. It fits like a glove. 

[d.p]

Got my down pipe fixed, got my truck cover but haven't been driving it much.  So of course I got a problem which is it doesn't want to turn over.  Picked it up today from the muffler shop and it started fine, drove around, got lunch came home and turned it off and now it won't turn over.  Plugs aren't fouled, Tried swapping the coil, pretty sure its getting fuel (I can throttle it and see gas shoot into the carb) but just can't get it turn over.  Checked spark at the coil wire and it sparks when I turn it over.

 

Not sure what the problem is?   

Edited October 23, 2018 by d.p

[d.p]

Well that was an easy fix.  Stupid old connector at the coil resistor was loose. 

 

Put a new one and she started right up.