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My 1971 521


d.p

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51 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

Mariner did you use a 45 degree flaring tool on your truck?

 

I also have had problems with Raybestos hardware not fitting.

Yes, SAE inverted flare is 45 degrees. My flaring tool is for 45 degrees.

 

AN fittings are 37 degrees, and are not factory.

Edited by mainer311
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Yes and there are metric 37 degree inverted flare brake fittings.  One day you all will run across these.

 

The more expensive hydraulic brakeline flaring tools have an available 37 degree tool that is interchangeable with the 45 degree tool.

 

https://www.eastwood.com/37-deg-flare-die-set-for-25304.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7Oqr65G-3AIVAttkCh0pXApvEAQYBSABEgKvUvD_BwE

 

These are for the double inverted flared brake lines.

 

If you are having to really tighten your flared fitting that you flared to get them to not leak then these are the wrong degree flare or a bad flare.  Check the torque specs for double inverted flares.

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Can someone tell me how to drop the spare tire?   NVMD got it down, is there a market for stock 521 wheels/white walls and hub caps?  Hate to throw them away. 

Edited by d.p
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question regarding my brake pedal.  I don’t have a return spring on it but my clutch pedal does.  Should here be a return spring on the brake pedal?  And if so anyone got a link to a replacement one?

Edited by d.p
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P/N 46585-14800. NLA.

 

I could have sworn the two springs were identical, but there seem to be 2 different part numbers listed. They connect to the body and pedals in the same way via the clevis pin, so their lengths must be different or something. On the Mike Clotz brake master clevis, there is enough pin sticking out that the spring will stay on (at least it did for me). 

 

Might have to keep checking eBay for something like that.

Edited by mainer311
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10 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Ha ha it's the J shaped hooks on the end. The brake is S shape and the clutch is C (with the coil part in the middle)

 

Hook me up with an S shaped one mike.  

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Mainer can you measure your brake spring? Maybe I can find a matching one if I know the length. 

 

Looks like they maybe the same length but to mikes point just different hook ‘ends.’ 

Edited by d.p
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  • 3 weeks later...

To add to what Wayno said, your cylinder head is gonna be the bottleneck... 

That intake might be a  good upgrade but I would find out what size the runners are.. the 210 head has 28.5mm (1.125") intake port, so if that intake is larger then whats on the head you will actually hurt your performance with a larger diameter feeding a smaller port on the head....

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Yeah I figured L20b was what I need to get but so much more involved then just bolting it on.....but if that is the end goal then no reason to spend money on this stuff.   

I can get an L20 block for $300 locally.  Maybe I just do that and start spending money on it.  Running an l20 with a stock 4 speed doable?

Edited by d.p
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I got a spare L16 but there is an L20 not too far from me.  Not trying to become a Datsun parts hoarder which is the only reason I haven't gone and picked it up.  Maybe I will scrap the L16 and replace it with the L20 and start rebuilding it.   

Edited by d.p
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I put a L-20-B in Ratsun (one of my 1970 521 trucks).  Ratsun still has the stock four speed, and rear axle.   No problems so far.

I am using the stock L-16/521 radiator, used L-16/521 oil pan, and engine mount steel brackets, and rubber mounts.  I am also using the stock L-16/521 manual choke Hitachi carb.

The L-20-B engine I got in Ratsun has the single round hole on the bottom of the exhaust manifold, the L-16, and L-18 that were in Ratsun before used the two bottom hole exhaust manifold.  I built my own exhaust system on Ratsun, and I put a flange in the down pipe, about a foot to 18 inches from the bottom of the exhaust manifold, so when the L-20-B was put in, I just had to make a different downpipe, using the flange from the L-20-B engine.

 

Problems I am working on.  Getting the parts together to swap the five speed that was with the L-20-B engine into Ratsun.   Need to make a transmission mount, and change the front half of the driveline to match the slip yoke on the five speed.  Also need to shorten the drive line.

I also need to get the hot air stove on the exhaust manifold in place, and hook up hot air to the air cleaner snorkel. 

 

I would. also like to get a 4.11 rear axle in exchange for the 4.375 the stock 521 has.

 

Do not worry about being a Datsun hoarder.  Quite often, what you do not hoard ends up as scrap, and not usable to anyone. 

Edited by DanielC
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RFFQD1p.jpg

 

The only advantage to the one on the left is that it's lighter. Otherwise it will rust out, will leak or come loose repeatedly, will be noisy, will increase under hood temps, will not fit without dinging it to clear something, (usually the steering box) will not add 10 hp or whatever bs claimed, will waste at least a day to put on and you probably will regret spending the money on it.

 

Get the L16 exhaust but watch out, some of the later L18 ones did not very well separate the 1/4 and 2/3 pipes.

 

V5o9o8x.jpg

 

Get the one on the left. 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 are paired into their own pipes. The one on the right speaks for itself.

 

 

The F4W63 was used '73? 620 and 610/710 and  through '81 in the A10. The F4W63L was used in the 521/510 . I don't know what the differences were. Maybe dropping the L made them stronger for the L20B series. I put an L20B in my 521 back in the 70s and it was fine.

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2 hours ago, d.p said:

Where can one find that header on the left?  

What exhaust manifold was on your spare motor?

I swear the one I sold a few years ago is the one you want, I wonder if it's for a non smog engine.... the one I had didn't have any of those ports for the air pump..

When I was hemorrhaging money on my datsun I sold alot of my spare parts.... looking back there are a few parts I probably should have kept... that exhaust manifold being one of them...

Not like that helps you any....

But to answer your question Ebay, junk yard, or a want ad here..  just have to keep your eyes open... 

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