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A 521 in Massachusetts


Crashtd420

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1 hour ago, mainer311 said:

I’m actually in the market for one as well, since I’ll be pulling that all apart soon. The Nissan gasket is kind of weird. Like, why are the front two intake ports tear-drop shaped?

 

Injector notches are at the top and there would need to be 4.

 

GVxxnbX.jpg

 

This is for the notches in the bottom front two intake runners. I have no idea why they are there. I have speculated in the past that these grooves are just above the coolant passages in the intake. Perhaps the front runners run cooler because of air from the fan? This would help them evaporate any fuel droplets

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The Nissan SSS Gasket is like the Felpro as it is a 1.5in intake size but better material.Felpro seems to blow out the bottom in the center.So I had a SSS I put on yesterday to try out.

My Y pipe gasket blew out so I had to change both gasketsOn the exhaust manifold Y pipe I used nuts.I could not find the long type exhaust type bolts and think they are fine thread 8mm x1.0 thread.

the Y pipe leaked and I really reefed on those bolts where one seem ready to street to stretch so I stoped and it don’t leak.

 

I have a gasket similar as posted above that was sold with the TopEnd/Trimill header but never used either of them

one must remember there is a inside side of the gasket like as marked on the Felpros

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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36 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

 

Injector notches are at the top and there would need to be 4.

 

 

That does make more sense... I never really thought about it... should have suspected something seeing only 2 notches....

It did say if it had the factory efi it would have machined notches and extra bolt holes... 

 

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36 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

The Nissan SSS Gasket is like the Felpro as it is a 1.5in intake size but better material.Felpro seems to blow out the bottom in the center.So I had a SSS I put on yesterday to try out.

My Y pipe gasket blew out so I had to change both gasketsOn the exhaust manifold Y pipe I used nuts.I could not find the long type exhaust type bolts and think they are fine thread 8mm x1.0 thread.

the Y pipe leaked and I really reefed on those bolts where one seem ready to street to stretch so I stoped and it don’t leak.

 

I have a gasket similar as posted above that was sold with the TopEnd/Trimill header but never used either of them

one must remember there is a inside side of the gasket like as marked on the Felpros

Do you happen to have a part number for that sss gasket?

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 I just get the fellpro intake/exhaust. It's 1.5" so I port matched the head and the intake to it. Now they will fit every time after. I think it has the metal fire rings around the exhaust. Even if open on the middle two it's not going to do anything.

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I have always used the Felpros that have "inside" stamped on the gasket, they all have 1.5" intake holes as all my heads have been port matched to the dual SU manifolds, I have never messed with the exhaust ports, they seemed big enough and no one has ever talked about enlarging them for street use.

The Felpros seem to be a good intake gasket, I normally get several uses out of them before replacing them, normally I put them in without any type of sealer, but eventually some of the material sticks to the head or intake when I separate them and then I use some gasket maker on it for it's last use, the next time it will be replaced as it has never came off clean after using that stuff.

Edited by wayno
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The exhausts are close but a slight lip and the odd webbing in a corner. You'll never 'see' any gains from matching but there's the comfortable feeling that at least you did something. I find matching and light porting and polishing and the combustion chamber too, very rewarding. Not in gains but it's nice to work with your hands. 

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As I'm sure most of you have experienced, getting an L series intake/exhaust manifold secured without and leaks can be tricky.  Spraying with copper is a great idea, especially where the water ports are concerned. I used to use high temp orange RTV around the water ports, but spray would probably work just as well.

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I think the best thing to do is have studs in every intake/exhaust mount hole, yes it can make it a hassle sometimes, but I have never stripped out a hole in the head using studs, I have stripped them out using bolts, especially when trying to fix exhaust leaks, it is very depressing when you feel the threads pull loose just when you thought you had it, and once the threads are stripped bottoming out a stud into the bottom of the hole in the head don't always work.

 

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13 minutes ago, Greaser2 said:

Crash, did you loose the bottom horn due to the AC compressor?  

No ... I did remove them for better clearance during the installation but 1 never worked so I just didnt bother putting it back on..... 

The bottom one actually has plenty of clearance,  If installed. .. the top one is close to the ac line, but it clears.... 

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when you get that Reflex intake gasket take some good shots

Maybe try Zcardepot as they say they have L series headgasket made in Japan but don't know anything so your the Gineapig on this one.

Be honest I like the Durapro L series gasket that's Baz at Datsport sells They made in Japan and 87mm and get the graphite one and they seem closest to the old stock graphite gaskets Nissan used to sell.  I think I seen it on ebay austrailia..

 

update they don't have the Japan made gasket listed anymore or it was a different site I saw it

 

http://datsport.com/gasket-kit-full-Lseries.html     maybe just find the HG cheaper somewhere else.

 

http://redlinegaskets.co.za/?gasket=nissan-datsun-l-series   from S Africa  these look nice

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Head-Gasket-FOR-Nissan-Datsun-1600-180B-200B-Bluebird-Stanza-720-L16-L18-L20B/283113793343?hash=item41eae5a73f:g:OfkAAOSwVSpdyv2I   from Australia Durapro  graphite   This is what I got from Datsport a long time ago I bought 10 of them.  still have 4 as spares.

 

 

found it zcardepot

https://zcardepot.com/collections/510/products/cylinder-head-gasket-japan-l16-l18-l20b-510-620#

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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53 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

well if you have got the money best to buy them now.

I always get spares. On my L16s I use the cheap Fepro headgaskets  If I know the turnaround time is going to be short. If a brand new build I use my Durapro gasket but I will order this Japan made one from zcardepot when I put a order in for those 510 drums. and some other parts.


That's a good idea if your plan is to own these cars for longer than a couple years.👍 If something breaks you already have it instead of hoping someone still stocks stuff. Worst case you can sell off extra parts / trade them to others / let them go with your car (hah!)

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If you find a Japan parts sourec always buy 2 as the parts are drying up

Tsubaki timming kits(Nissan) are the best. OSK is next but seen some quality issues. on later versions.

headgaskets from Nissan Well Crash just tested that for us.

 

brakeclutch hydralic parts most are now China Taiwan Italy I get about 5 yrs on a daily driver

Atsugi water pumps are harder to find!!!!!

Jap made stock Fuel pumps any left????

Kingpins were 50$ when I got my 2 sets and now all gone in the US. Most are overseas.

Rockauto ,Parts Geek has centerlinks steering components and if cheap buy them if you plan on keeping a rig over 10years.

speedo and accell cables for the carbs!!!! (interior section on Rockauto and on Ebay.

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Got a little time in the garage today....

Truck is up on jack stands so I can adjust the front ride height.... need to index the torsion bars one spline, I've already maxed out the adjustment as it sits....

 

Didn't have enough time to actually adjust it today so instead I added another 1/4 inch shim to the carrier bearing quickly..

 

Also my intake gasket came in....

 

20200101-105437.jpg

 

Has the larger diameter intake ports, and the exhaust seems just a slight bit  bigger..... 

 

20200101-113827.jpg

 

Thickness is the biggest difference...

 

20200101-113959.jpg

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