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Crashtd420

A 521 in Massachusetts

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25 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

You would be the only guy on the planet with A/C on an (L16) L4, a single Weber side draft and an idle up solenoid. Lead the pack!!!

 

I definitely have a little bit of research to do, but you give me a couple directions to explore thanks..... 

I will probably keep it simple for now and just turn the idle up a little in the afternoons if i need the a/c.... 

I will get this done but it may end up on this years winter list not sure.... it would be a different story if this was the beginning of summer but we are almost into fall.... 

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8 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

A mechanical solenoid would simplify everything. Probably...

I was lucky I turned the idle up just barely with ac on..... once the truck warms up it works out good.... 

Not to high and not to low..... 

Gives me some time to do research... right now the ujoint is top priority the rest of the things I need to do are just little issues that wont hurt anything....

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Best day ever driving the datsun. A/C is working perfectly... the downtown clock was registering 92 today with only about 40% humidity so not to bad...

 

I was happy it was cool inside and there was no increase to the engine temperatures due to the condenser in front of the radiator.... 

 

I feel i could have gotten it colder inside but I dont have door seals or door cards to keep the cool air contained.....

Another couple items for this winters todo list.... 

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Look at mid 90s Mazda SUV door seals, they worked great on my 521 kingcab, right door seals are sometimes like new, if you can find 2 right seals you can use it on the left door. you see the door on the SUVs are larger, so you cut the seal at a 45 degree angle and put that at the upper back of the door, then you go all the way around and cut it at a 45 degree angle again and your done, I have never glued the seal in place as it stays there by itself as it has that crimp edge.

 

Also if you can find a good 85ish Mazda B2000 truck they use the same seal as the 521.

Keep in mind that even though the Ford Ranger is basically a B2000 of that 80s era the seals are different, they are glued on or too big, I don't recall anymore but I know they do not work.

There are still lots of mid 90s Mazda SUVs in the wrecking yards around here, not as many as 10 years ago, but they are out there, and that is a better seal than any aftermarket seal will be, all that stuff is crap that they sell for 521s these days unless it is made by a US manufacturer like the stuff I was getting from Kotto Auto Glass for windshields.

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Thanks I will keep that in mind but I have had a set of door seals this whole time..... quality unknown...

 

It's not that I need to purchase them I just need to get off my ass and install them.... I was driving the truck for 3 months last year without the door glass.. once I could drive it again some things became less of a priority while others got things became more.... 

 

As far as the seals I've been afraid I will start a snowball effect and have realigned the doors and fenders because of adding the seals... 

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Did pretty good this morning.....

Did my first u joint today.. not as bad as I thought it was going to be.....

 

Didnt really take any other pics because it was just a u joint..... ok and it doesnt look like postimage is working so I guess it doesnt matter....

 

I had the u joints done when I replaced the carrier bearing and the drive shaft balanced.....

 

The one thing i noticed was the clips in the old u joint where .02 thinner.... the new one with the thicker clips seemed to make things much tighter, but not too tight...

 

Checked pinion angle while I was under there just to be sure and that was good... so hopefully this ujoint was my vibration issue.....

 

Edit for pic:

20190831_091157.jpg

Part that needed new joint....

 

Edited by Crashtd420
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Pinion angle was checked with vehicle on it's wheels?

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8 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Pinion angle was checked with vehicle on it's wheels?

Sort of.....  i checked it when I had the rear axle on 2 jack stands, front never left the ground. I just assumed that would be the same since it was still supporting itself by the axle..... it's hard to get under there when its actually on the ground.... 

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The OEM U-joint kits from Nissan, (that may be NLA) had several pairs of clips, in different thicknesses.

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1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

Sort of.....  i checked it when I had the rear axle on 2 jack stands, front never left the ground. I just assumed that would be the same since it was still supporting itself by the axle..... it's hard to get under there when its actually on the ground.... 

That's sort of right. Weight transfer with the truck at an angle like that will obviously put more weight on the front, less on the rear.

 

So it was already rebuilt and failed so quickly? The thinner clips could possible have caused that, but I'm not entirely convinced.

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22 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

 

So it was already rebuilt and failed so quickly? The thinner clips could possible have caused that, but I'm not entirely convinced.

Could have been quality of part.... I'll admit at the time I believe I used parts from autozone.....

Even then they only used 2 out of the 3 that I gave them because they said one had play in it.... 

I kind of think It was the clips, that's the direction it was loose..... 

Either way new one feels 100 times better...

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Haven't made it on the highway yet but

I was able to get up to 50 on a stretch of road in town and already a noticeable difference with the new u joint....

 

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What does a busted ujoint feel like? Vibration at all speeds? 

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I could physically move the joint side to side inside the cups..... not much but enough.....

Vibrating was felt over 45 mph, sometimes there was even a sweet spot and it would go away temporarily..... but kind of felt like driving over a road waiting to be repaved.....

Well they repaved the highway I drive on and I was still feeling it..... 

 

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Took a nice ride with the family this morning.. found a Sunday morning car cruise with an $8 all you can eat breakfast buffet... 

Unfortunately for some reason the pic of the line of cars with my truck in it didnt save.... but I did see this ....

Some sort of roadster.... I forget what they are... no badges... but It was hiding a turbo engine in there.... 

 

20190908-091952.jpg

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Caterham, based on the Lotus Seven. A car which had a looooong production run. I think the first was 1962, or something like that. They came with cycle fenders and the sweeping fenders that ran the whole length of the car. A very successful racer, because of its light weight and good distribution. The driver basically sits on the rear wheels.

 

I outran a bike cop in one of these once!

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I have been pretty happy with the tune on the carburator lately but there have always been some transition issues, depending on how you drive it...

I have been wanting to try another emulsion tube so I finally got 2 - f7 tubes ordered.... I currently have f8 tubes and the f7 are supposed to be richer sooner which I'm hoping will help at the transition.... 

 

On another note I ran into an interesting issue trying to keep the idle up when I run the a/c.. I tried turning it up enough so it wouldn't stumble and try to stall at idle, but if I do that it wants to diesel a little if I'm not running the a/c.... cure for now is I turn the ac on regardless just before I shut the truck off... this causes the idle to drop and no dieseling... 

 

 

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Right now I've mashed everyone's suggestions together and hopefully have come up with a good way to add the idle up solenoid....

I know the pedal was talked about and upon looking it think that's my best option..... on the pedal there is a little square pad.... I'm not even sure what it is supposed to be for...

 

20190909-073104.jpg

 

 

If I can drill a hole in the firewall just behind that square to mount the solenoid then that would keep the throttle open a little extra increasing the idle..... 

 

20190905-171837.jpg

 

I'm able to adjust my cable free play and wot with the linkage I have so I just need to order a solenoid now....

 

 

Edited by Crashtd420
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8 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Will you come in from the engine side of the firewall? Can't really see how much room you have there.

That was the hope, to have as little of the solenoid as possible poke through the firewall to the inside... 

I pretty sure I have the room, next step is to see exactly where it would need to go and if anything is in fact in the way... also I'm not sure how much throw those solenoids have so I need to figure that out too....  I have a couple mounting and adjustment ideas in my head just need to pick a solenoid and see what I need to do....

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I suspect that flat pad was originally a bump stop mount so when one let off the pedal the top of the pedal would not make a metal to metal type thump when it hit the firewall.

It will be interesting to see what you come up with on this.

Edited by wayno
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1 hour ago, wayno said:

I suspect that flat pad was originally a bump stop mount so when one let off the pedal the top of the pedal would not make a metal to metal type thump when it hit the firewall.

It will be interesting to see what you come up with on this.

 

Hopefully this idea comes together like I'm imagining.. 

I tried to think about where I have to mount one, vs not mounting to a weak point all while worrying about cable slack etc.....

This seems to be the most direct solution as it will just kick the pedal enough to raise the idle....

I'm eyeing a solenoid from a Toyota,  it has a long threaded portion that I should be able to use 2 nuts (1 inside, 1 outside) against the firewall to adjust and secure it....

 

Screenshot-20190909-125238-Chrome.jpg

 

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I would weld a nut to a plate of steel then rivet that plate (or weld it) to the body. The if you ever need to adjust it, you won't need two people, and as a benefit, the added steel would strengthen the area, keeping it from cracking over time.

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1 minute ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I would weld a nut to a plate of steel then rivet that plate (or weld it) to the body. The if you ever need to adjust it, you won't need two people, and as a benefit, the added steel would strengthen the area, keeping it from cracking over time.

Thats something to keep in mind... That would also allow me to move it out further into the engine bay if needed.... 

I could put the locking nut in the engine bay vs inside the cab.....

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