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Crashtd420

A 521 in Massachusetts

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Just adding the ac. . Not power steering,  I thought about an electric assist steering but the 521s really dont need it...... 

My L16 has a bit more power over stock so I think I will be ok... I feel ac is worth sacrificing a few horse power....

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Well the datsun to the rescue for another day... 

Got the Chevy ready to go and then the brake line heading to the rear decided to blow out... such fun... 

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8 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

Just adding the ac. . Not power steering,  I thought about an electric assist steering but the 521s really dont need it...... 

My L16 has a bit more power over stock so I think I will be ok... I feel ac is worth sacrificing a few horse power....

I agree living in SW Phoenix it is a welcomed creature comfort.

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Little bit more random stuff for my thread.... this should interest the machinists out there.....

Might not look like it but this was probably the biggest pain in the ass job I've had to deal with....

 

20190702-132530.jpg

 

48" diameter hydrostatic bearing with 72 1/2-20 threaded holes in 4140 steel....

2 parts for a total of 144 hole.... glad that's done.... 

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Finally, been waiting forever to pick up my new c*ck ring

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39 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

Finally, been waiting forever to pick up my new c*ck ring

Lol.... ya you'll be hanging low.... that bad boy weight around 5000lbs....

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Tapping into chromoly is a royal bitch.

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On 7/1/2019 at 5:02 PM, Crashtd420 said:

Well the datsun to the rescue for another day... 

Got the Chevy ready to go and then the brake line heading to the rear decided to blow out... such fun... 

Probably right above the fuel tank along the frame rail I'm willing to bet. Seems like they all rot out there eventually

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21 minutes ago, greenthumb said:

Probably right above the fuel tank along the frame rail I'm willing to bet. Seems like they all rot out there eventually

Ya this one was just in front of the tank.... I fixed the line years ago behind the tank.... this time I had to replace the entire line from the abs module to the rubber line in the back.... this whole truck is just about falling apart, still safe but not pretty.... I just need one more sticker and one more winter out of it.... I was trying to get to to roll over 300,000 but i dont think I'll make it.... I'm at 283,000 .... I cant complain.. I haven't done anything to the truck since the last sticker other than oil changes.... so after 1 year of not spending any money I have to spend 150 to pass inspection.. much cheaper than a truck payment....

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Well I think the car gods had pity on me... put the new calipers on the Chevy and was able to bleed the system without issue and no leak..... back up and driving...

Driving home after work in the datsun was brutal today.... 90 degrees out and the downtown clock said 109 under the sun.... 

I will say even in this heat it's been running flawless.... the tunes been good and the temp gauge stays where it should and haven't had a miss fire since I adjusted the timing..... now back to the ac idea....

 

The line kit I ordered arrived yesterday and compressor came in today, wasn't 100% sure what the fittings on the compressor would be and luckily they were the #10 and #8 line fitting like I was hoping .. so far things are correct and I think I'll have everything I'll need .... just need the rest of the parts to arrive so I can mock up placement and lines.....

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Do you turn the vent windows around backwards? I do that when it’s hot out. Works great as long as you’re moving.

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I don't mess with my wing windows, I leave the shut as they don't have air leaks(don't whistle) when driving right now, but I do have rear sliders, when I open that it's sorta like having no windshield(exaggeration), air really starts moving thru when the side window is open and the slider is open also.

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2 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Do you turn the vent windows around backwards? I do that when it’s hot out. Works great as long as you’re moving.

My vent windows dont stay open to good..... I guess I didnt put enough tension on the spring and nut when I rebuilt them....

I do get plenty of air between the hood vent, windows and I have the rear slider... but as you said as long as I'm moving.... just not enough around town.. 

 

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My passenger vent window stays open when turned all the way but my drivers side doesn't.  Guess the rubber seal on the drivers side is chewed up enough so that it won't keep it in place.  

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3 minutes ago, d.p said:

My passenger vent window stays open when turned all the way but my drivers side doesn't.  Guess the rubber seal on the drivers side is chewed up enough so that it won't keep it in place.  

Also Inside the door the post that the window pivots on has a spring and a nut.... I'm sure they have to both be good to function right.... 

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28 minutes ago, d.p said:

My passenger vent window stays open when turned all the way but my drivers side doesn't.  Guess the rubber seal on the drivers side is chewed up enough so that it won't keep it in place.  

Replaced the rubbers and cleaned everything up but the window would not stay open. I replaced the top rivet with a bolt and lock washer. Stay open now. 

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Well fuck me sideways, will check it and see if that is my problem.  Greaser you drill the rivet out I assume? 

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3 minutes ago, d.p said:

Well fuck me sideways, will check it and see if that is my problem.  Greaser you drill the rivet out I assume? 

Yes. Twice. Once for the original and second for a replacement rivet.  When tightening up on the spring it seemed to be getting too tight and didn’t want to break anything so I stopped that. 

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1 hour ago, d.p said:

Well fuck me sideways, will check it and see if that is my problem.  Greaser you drill the rivet out I assume? 

In order to do new vent window seals you have to.... the lower post goes through the rubber..... so to do it properly the window has to be removed from the frame, which means the rivet need to be removed...

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Taking wing window assemblies apart is not something you want to do unless you have to, the post with the spring can turn off/break when your trying to remove the nut as that area gets rusty and then where are you, i'll tell you where you are, putting wanted ads up that get you no responses, as one has to tear apart a door and make it useless to sell that part for not much money as no one wants to pay much for something like that, and everyone wants a perfect part when they buy one, well they are almost 50 years old and have been out in the weather for over half that time if not the whole 50 years, there is no such thing as perfect for something like this.

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They are some in eBay...from $15-300 lol. 

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I confused the 320 wing window assembly with the 521 assembly, the 521 assembly can be removed without touching that adjustment spring, the 320 assembly has a stud that sticks down into the door that one has to remove the nut to remove the wing window assembly, it is very hard to get to that nut with an extension and socket, let alone squirting PB Blaster or WD40 on it, it's a real pain, and it can break off if too rusted.

Once the 521 assembly is removed one can lube the shit out of that spring/nut and hopefully not break anything.

Also earlier 521 wing window assemblies have a different wing window locking arm, it's like the 520.

In the end I don't mess with my wing windows unless they have air leaks around the gasket while driving the truck, I have new gaskets just in case I need them but I have not used any of them yet as none of mine leak, or if they do I put a nickel in between the arm and upright.

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Went to do some work in the garage and realized I am a slob.... my work bench is a disgrace.....

20190710-152658.jpg

 

Had to clean up some before I get started on this ac project.....

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lol man. How do you find anything in there? 

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