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Crashtd420

A 521 in Massachusetts

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3 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

no ability to adjust at the pedal?

Most New master are chinese and need to have the threaded rod cut as its too long.. as when you install the master to the firewall it pushes the rod as your installing,NOT GOOD.

after you get that done. all it really does is determne the pedal height. Long as the rod is fully out of the cylinder.

 

I like the spring on the slave as it help seats the rod all the way in and then one can adjust the half ball out to engage the t/o bearing lever.

 have run them with and with out springs and never notice a difference. just fully seat the slave by bleed screw open.

 

 

On my 510 with 200sx5speed I kept the orginal 510 threaded ball and lock nut set up with the 510 T/O arm

 

 

Rockauto and Parksgeek still had the Jap Nabco brand slave clyinders

 

I have play and everything seems to work.... I just think I never had it adjusted properly.... I really didnt have a reference point so it was a guess the first time...... 

 

Edited by Crashtd420
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So there just happens to be a dyno shop in my town..... while they mainly tune efi and Holley carbs they said if I show up with all my jets and stuff i have for tuning they will strap the datsun on the dyno......

 

Basically I can rent the dyno for $125 an hour clock starts ones its strapped down..... figure that's not to bad.... 

 

Their tech will run the equipment and run the truck on the dyno.....

I basically tell them the highest rpm I'm comfortable with and we will see how long it keeps making power... 

 

Just need to make sure I have everything I'll need and make the appointment..... hoping for one day in june...... 

 

 

 

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Oh course you fix one thing and something else stops working.....

I suppose I could drive It less but that's not gonna happen....

 

Basically I turn the parking lights on and my right directional lights up on the dash....

 

Everthing around the truck works good... so I think it's the cluster again.....

Of course I just pulled it out to do the speedometer cable the other day so I must have disturbed something..... 

 

I had to add a ground to the back of the cluster last year but I forget why..... hoping it has to do with that....

Guess I know what I'll be doing after work tomorrow....

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I'm so bad at taking pictures and I wish I did because everyone could get a good laugh.......

 

So I fixed my blinker/parking light issue... no ground to the 2 bulbs on the cluster.... this happened to the left directional before.... so i added a ground wire from the copper strip that grounds the 2 bulbs to the metal case of the cluster problem solved.... 

 

Just in time to get my son from school.... well I made it about 2 miles down the road before I realized that the 4 bulbs for brakes and directional were still hanging behind the truck.....

I removed them from them as I was testing to make sure it wasn't something in the tailhousing.... well I never put them back.... must have looked foolish in the parking lot putting them back.....

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Got a new sticker yesterday .... 

 

20190531-051054.jpg

 

That was the first time anyone but me has driven that truck in probably 20 years......

 

Made a minor, well 3 minor changes to my jetting during lunch today.... see what that does on my way home....

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So I liked 2 out of the 3 changes, the main and air corrector didnt do what I thought..... but it did help balance out half throttle and wot on the highway my air/fuel stayed right around 13... 

 

But now I would go richer just off idle... so I actually went 1 down on my idle jet and opened my air fuel screw about half a turn..... and my transition got much better..... I'm staying pretty close to 13 all around..... 

 

Gonna drive it like this for a bit and see how it likes it.... but this is definitely the most stable setup yet..... 

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So I went and did it again.....

That damn oil pan has been pissing me off, so I pulled it off again..... 

 

20190602-142812.jpg

 

I still have a leak from the back corner..... gonna check it again for flatness, cross my fingers and try sealing it again.....

Also put a nylon washer on the drain plug instead of the copper one.... 

Damn synthetic oil just seems to find a way..... 

 

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Do you have that L shaped bracket for the back of the oil pan?

Edited by wayno

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10 minutes ago, wayno said:

Do you have that L shaped bracket for the back of the oil pan?

No.... never had them..... 

Were they on all L motors?

 

I think about those after I have the oil pan down .... like now.... 

I'll try one more time to seal it and maybe I'll be looking into finding a set if I fail again..... 

 

Last time I used that form a gasket stuff and while it sealed about 95% there were a couple tell tails of where the oil was getting past in that corner .... so I'll address that and as I said cross my fingers and try again.... maybe a little extra in the corner.....

 

 

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While your pan is off check every mount hole, I talk about this because most people tighten the oil pan bolts too tight, and what it does is make the mount holes in the pan into like shallow little volcanoes where the edges of the holes are pulled up towards the engine block, if that has happened you need to pound them flat again with a hammer, that pan needs to be flat all the way around where if you were to set it on a table you could not see any gap between the pan and table all the way around.

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By the way, there is only one of them L shaped brackets on the oil pan, it goes across the back and I think forward up the passenger side of the pan, but it could be the driver side, I don't remember now.

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2 minutes ago, wayno said:

While your pan is off check every mount hole, I talk about this because most people tighten the oil pan bolts too tight, and what it does is make the mount holes in the pan into like shallow little volcanoes where the edges of the holes are pulled up towards the engine block, if that has happened you need to pound them flat again with a hammer, that pan needs to be flat all the way around where if you were to set it on a table you could not see any gap between the pan and table all the way around.

 

You are 100% right there.... I might bring it to work with me tomorrow.... I have a flat machining table in my work area..... 

That will allow me to view the whole pan on a flat surface....

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I placed the pan on a flat surface and hammered the stretched bolt holes down, then flip over and check with a straight edge. I also had two of those L supports so I cut one and covered both sides and the rear. A good surface and gasket and it goes on dry.

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Turns out bring the oil pan to work was a good idea.....

On a flat table it wanted to rock back and forth.... 

Three corners touched and the corner where I have had my leak was slightly raised.....

 

I was able to straighten the corner so now it sits flat without rocking.... 

Gonna flatten where the bolts go during lunch..... and it should be good to reinstall.....

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Bent or not, there are so many bolts in that thing that it will draw itself straight anyway. Just make sure the holes aren't cratered like Mike said. I like to take a tapered punch to the inside surface and crater them in the other direction. That way, the bolts end up crushing it flat when they get tightened. 

 

I had a pretty major leak after I put my pan back on, but it just turned out that my bolts weren't tightened enough. 

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1 hour ago, mainer311 said:

 I like to take a tapered punch to the inside surface and crater them in the other direction. That way, the bolts end up crushing it flat when they get tightened. 

 

Well the corner between the bolts was actually lifted.... so I took care of that first..... while its pretty flat now I like your idea of reversing the crater.... bringing a tapered punch home and I'll do as you suggested before I put it back on.... 

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In my opinion you want them holes flat, all that will happen if you reverse the crater is have the oil pan hold the bolt farther out as if you tighten it enough to flatten the oil pan holes out again you are tightening it too tight.

You need to have the oil pan flat and then tighten the bolts just enough to snug it up to the block, if it leaks snug it up a little more, I can almost put my oil pans on with an extension, socket, and twisting my wrist without the ratchet.

I have thought about using small washers to spread the pressure of the bolt out also, but have not done that yet as they seal good the way I do it now, you do not want to squish the gasket.

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I didnt go crazy with reversing the crater, but using the tapered punch did make the holes better..... and I have it about as flat as I can get it.... not perfect but way better then it was before...... 

 

And I'm not using the gasket..... going with the form a gasket again... I found the bolts stayed tight using it.... and if my pan was flat in that corner it would have sealed like it should have..... 

 

 

Also put a little heat paint on it just to clean it up again....

 

 

20190603-171233.jpg still drying.....

Edited by Crashtd420
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Wayno is correct flat is the way they came from the factory.  It took decades of knucleheads over tightening them to distort the pan holes the way you found them.  The factory gaskets seal fine when properly torqued.  Yes I torque my oil pan bolts also!

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Same here Charlie. The smaller in-lb torque wrenches work great for the oil pan.

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Well I got lucky.... i was supposed  to work ot today but I managed to escape work early since the machines I run decided to stop running.... someone else's problem to fix them...

 

So I headed home and got the oil pan bolted back on.... torqued to spec ....

Crossmember and steering cross rod reinstalled...... truck back on the ground.. 

 

I decided to wait to fill the oil and let the form a gasket dry, yes I used "form a gasket"... technically doesn't need to but its gonna rain tomorrow so I cant hurt to let it cure 24 hrs.....

 

Hopefully that's the last time I have to do that......

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I don't know what form a gasket is, but if I use anything at all on the stock type gasket, I only use high tack on one side because I want it to stick to the valve cover or oil pan, I don't want it to stick to the block.

Normally the first time I put gaskets on dry, but the second time I use a gasket if it came off clean like on the intake/exhaust I put a little something around the coolant holes, used gaskets sometimes need a little extra help.

I hope it works out for you and doesn't leak anymore, it sucks when one works so hard to do something and it doesn't work out, it happens all the time to me, but I usually am doing something weird like making a kingcab or trying to lower something and cannot get the angles right, then it turns out it was something else and not the angles at all, and that happened because I totally changed everything when I extended the frame and had a custom drive line made, stuff comes back and haunts me all the time.

Edited by wayno
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RTV

 

Hopefully you used the right stuff.

 

I never let them tack dry. They always get full torque at install.

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Yes it was the correct stuff for the application....

 

And I didnt really let it tack dry either... when I said waiting for it to dry I was talking about after it was installed and fully torqued.....  

 

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I wish I could say the leak is 100% gone but I cant....

 

I think I finally got the oil pan.... i had a small leak at first but after the motor warmed up I retorqued the pan bolts and so far so good......

But the drain plug hates me....

Nylon washer was worse than just the copper one..... 

I need to look for a crush style copper gasket or something with a built in o-ring.... 

 

I tried a little form a gasket on the copper washer.... it's better but I still get a small drip.....  I might try this once more and see if I get a better result....

Edited by Crashtd420

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