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Crashtd420

A 521 in Massachusetts

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Well so much for it still being driveable...

When to take it to pick up my son at school and the pedal just hit the floor....

All the fluid leaked out.....

Luckily I had some cardboard under it...

So I pulled the slave off and found a nice tear in the seal..... like I expected....

 

20190515-164834.jpg

 

Luckily the replacement should be here tomorrow.... 

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At least it Broke before you left.  Would have huffed a song to die at your sons school or somewhere on the way. 

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2 hours ago, d.p said:

At least it Broke before you left.  Would have huffed a song to die at your sons school or somewhere on the way. 

Ya I got lucky.... I guess the rain did me a favor..... this was the first nice afternoon since Saturday when I discovered it....

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Yeah my greatest fear with these trucks is it leaving me stranded when I need to be somewhere.  IE picking my son up from school and such.  Fuck it if I am just running errands and don't have to be anywhere its fine and I don't worry so much.  

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I know what you mean.... so far the datsun hasn't left me stranded.... 

Luckily the couple issues I have had were at home as i was trying to leave... 

 

My poor Silverado has left me stranded a few times.... last time was for over 2 weeks and the datsun stepped up and became my daily....

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2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

My poor Silverado has left me stranded a few times.... last time was for over 2 weeks and the datsun stepped up and became my daily....

 

Yeah when my ignition was acting up I wouldn't drive it far at all for fear of getting stranded.  Took my skateboard everywhere with me so I could scoot home if need be which saved my butt a couple times.  Lucky for me its not my only means of transportation or else I would be hating life.    

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Clutch slave installed and all is good..... went for a nice test ride, then took the wife and kid out for lunch and ice cream... 

 

Of course changing the drain back for the pump jet to a zero made things a little richer but not bad....

Went one size leaner on the idle jet which helped, next I will try one size smaller pump jet...

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So went for a ride this morning to get breakfast supplies..... 

Last night I ended up going back up on the idle jet and put the smaller pump jet in.... 

Getting closer to being happy with it.....

 

And a big thanks to Mike for the timing info.... I haven't had a missfire since I lowered it.... also starting seems easier.... and I use to get a random fart out the carb and that hasn't happened lately either..... so I think I'm on the right track finally..... 

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Had another fun morning of driving my datsun without a miss....

Had to do a few things around town and drove about 20 minute on the highway .. 

Everything seems to be running real good..... 

 

And I'm so glad these datsuns have the drip rail around the roof, almost thought about shaving it off and I'm glad I didnt.... 

Didnt pay attention to the weather and a huge thunderstorm rolled through.... 

Even without the weather stripping on the doors no water came in.... 

I guess that answers any question about it running in the rain....

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What you have done and are doing to your Weber is what I mean when I say "you need to get intimate with your Weber!"  No one can tell you what jets you need as every engine and situation is different.

 Now this is not saying that there is no starting point this is what Weber sets the new carbs up stock with a staring point.

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5 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

What you have done and are doing to your Weber is what I mean when I say "you need to get intimate with your Weber!"  No one can tell you what jets you need as every engine and situation is different.

 Now this is not saying that there is no starting point this is what Weber sets the new carbs up stock with a staring point.

You are definitely right... yes you can slap them on and run.... but to get them right takes a minute.....

I dont know how these guys use to do it all by ear, even with setting timing.... no gun and they would be dead on .....

if I didn't have an air/fuel gauge this would be a real struggle ...

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So here is an interesting issue....

I got the slave cylinder reinstalled.... bled the system,  even rebled the master.... 

Everthing worked good, good pedal and release point....

 

Problem is when I tried to add the spring from the slave to the clutch fork i loose the pedal feel and I dont seem to have enough throw to disengage the clutch..  it seems to pull the clutch fork back a bit more over its static position.....

 

As I'm typing I'm wondering about the master cylinder.... the pedal seems to have some play between where the pedal rests, (being pulled back by the spring ) and before the pushrod contacts the piston inside....

I know it should have a little....

But I'm wondering now if the master isnt returning completely....

I see a clip that keeps the pushrod installed, but Is there an internal stop for the piston?

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What I noticed about the return spring vs. no return spring: 

 

Without it, residual pressure in the system seems to force the slave piston outwards, and you end up with no free play at the bottom of the system at all. I didn't like this, because I feel like it's going to force the bearing into the pressure plate even when my foot isn't on the pedal. 

 

With the return spring, your clutch throw is directly affected by how far out you have the ball adjusted on the slave piston, but it at least keeps the T/O bearing off of the pressure plate.

 

I just recently put my clutch in, and the pedal feel is definitely strange now. I feel like the clutch grabs too far out on the clutch pedal. I wish it grabbed closer to the floor, but don't want to adjust it far enough that I'm not getting complete disengagement. It's one of those adjustments that takes some iteration.

 

I can't give you specifics about the master, because I think some of them are different than others. Some of them have a clip that keeps the plunger in place, and then a second clip to keep the spring loaded piston in place. I can't vouch for all of them though, and the last thing you want is that bastard shooting into your truck and pissing fluid everywhere. I know that on mine I can disconnect the clevis from the clutch pedal and swing the pushrod well out of the way so that I can adjust it. 

 

Does yours have rubber dust cover over the back of it? Pull it off and see if you can see a secondary clip. 

Edited by mainer311
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Well you described much better exactly the same thing I'm wondering about and my concerns.... right now I have it set where I don't believe I have an issue but it does still seem  a little off....

 

When I take the rubber boot off there is a clip keeping the pushrod there.... 

I'll try removing that and the pushrod later  and see what I see.... 

I'm not sure if my clutch master has any adjustment? 

I'll check that out later too...

Thanks

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Clutch master is what it is more often than not. One thing I had to fix when I first acquired my truck was the threaded rod on the clevis. It was so long that it was mashed up against the back of the pedal, which wasn’t allowing me to adjust the clevis properly. Double check that too.

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On 5/11/2019 at 4:09 PM, Crashtd420 said:

 

 

Unfortunately while I was under there I noticed my slave cylinder was leaking.. I guess I tore the seal a couple weeks back when it over extended.... still drivable..... 

Regardless I have that fix on order..... 

 

I also took a minute to work on the carb... the accelerator pump also has a drain back ... so instead of all the fuel getting squirt into the engine some heads back to the bowl..... apparently its widely recommended to use a zero drain... so all the fuel gets sent to the engine when you hit the throttle quick..... 

 

Still need to go for a drive but even just putting it back in the garage I could tell a difference... 

 

 

Years ago I got a rebuild kit from Nissan dealer. $12 but it had everything but the casting and the piston slug. Bleeder and a rubber cover for it, I mean everything. In reality all you need is the rubber seal. I recently replaced mine with one from NAPA. No kits available. I took it apart to be sure there was no casting debris or machine shavings in it and to check the seal was installed properly. I also wet the bore with brake fluid so it wouldn't run on a dry surface. The seal was extremely soft and limp, not at all like the original.

 

Just like the Hitachi. The pump discharge is proportional to how fast you step on the gas. If slowly you don't need it much and much will drain back but a sudden flooring of the gas discharges more.

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4 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

But I'm wondering now if the master isnt returning completely....

I see a clip that keeps the pushrod installed, but Is there an internal stop for the piston?

Inside the master, there is the pushrod, a retaining washer and the clip that holds it all together. If you have any doubts, take it apart and check that there is freeplay between the pushrod and the piston. Sometimes the retaining washer is too thick and doesn't allow the pushrod to come back far enough to release the pressure on the piston all the way. The shape of the ball on the end of the pushrod can also be massaged to gain clearance.

 

And as Mainer said, check that the pedal isn't binding with the pushrod. I've seen this happen many times.

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There is definitely play at the pedal... I'm sure of that.. It almost feel like there is to much play.. I'm gonna measure it later then remove the pushrod to see what I can see and go from there....

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Of course I didnt get to look at the clutch pedal today....

I only have so much time to work on things after work lately.....

 

First thing i had to drill a tiny drain hole in my tail lights..... apparently they are not quite water tight .... after all that rain I found water in my tail lights (not oem)  it was not enough to blow the bulbs but enough to be annoying.....

 

Then when I went to pick up my son I was parked on a little more of a hill then normal and the ebrake was slipping a little.... 

I haven't adjusted the rear brakes since I put them on so I guess it was over due.....  got that done and as I'm typing I'm thinking I should have checked the cable tension too..... 

 

So I guess tomorrow clutch pushrod and check ebrake cables.....

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Ok so ebrake cable was good.... adjustment of the drums was all I needed.... realized I didnt have to pull the handle out as far today to set the brake..... gonna check it on the hill again when I get my son from school.....

 

As far as the clutch, I have no ability to adjust the pushrod as the pedal.....

There was a return stop for the actual pedal which I adjusted, and I adjusted the slave a bit and was able to install the spring...... clutch grabs in the middle of the pedal stroke...

Now its closer to the floor then before but I think I was really off on my adjustment last year because it was grabbing kind of high.... adding the spring just showed me that something wasn't right......

 

Going for a ride now, see how it goes....

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Ride went good....

Ebrake held on the hill ....

Clutch pedal took a second to get use to but it fully disengages and then crabs when released so I guess it should be good.... 

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no ability to adjust at the pedal?

Most New master are chinese and need to have the threaded rod cut as its too long.. as when you install the master to the firewall it pushes the rod as your installing,NOT GOOD.

after you get that done. all it really does is determne the pedal height. Long as the rod is fully out of the cylinder.

 

I like the spring on the slave as it help seats the rod all the way in and then one can adjust the half ball out to engage the t/o bearing lever.

 have run them with and with out springs and never notice a difference. just fully seat the slave by bleed screw open.

 

 

On my 510 with 200sx5speed I kept the orginal 510 threaded ball and lock nut set up with the 510 T/O arm

 

 

Rockauto and Parksgeek still had the Jap Nabco brand slave clyinders

Edited by banzai510(hainz)

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Did you not have the spring before? That will make a difference.

Nope never did.....

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