Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 16, 2019 Report Share Posted March 16, 2019 2 90s, a 180 and a 45 should do it. Getting over the axle can be done with less than a 180. Be smart with your cuts and think ahead to the next cut to conserve materials, otherwise you'll be making another trip to the interwebs for more tubing. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 16, 2019 Report Share Posted March 16, 2019 I think you can still exit in front of the axle but it has to be to the side of the car. Just a thought. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2019 58 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: 2 90s, a 180 and a 45 should do it. Getting over the axle can be done with less than a 180. Be smart with your cuts and think ahead to the next cut to conserve materials, otherwise you'll be making another trip to the interwebs for more tubing. I have my game plan I tried to buy enough but not to much..... I'm actually gonna try to put the muffler behind the axle so I can add one of those annoying exhaust cutouts.... Hopefully muffler will exit driveside and cutout will exit passenger.... Then I'm hoping to make 2 exhaust tips that hopefully blend to the sides of the bed behind the wheels but before the bumperettes...... I like how Mr big tanker extended the bed sides after the cab, I'd like to do some thing similar and keep the lower body line from the front to the back and incorporate the tips into the rear most extention..... if that makes any sense..... Maybe I'll play with some card board soon to show my idea..... 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 16, 2019 Report Share Posted March 16, 2019 It looks goofy if you don't extend the rear skirt also. I did that cutout thing your talking about on one of my vehicles when I was a kid, it was a waste of time as I never used it, just make a normal exhaust system and drive your truck, as that cross over is just something else to drag on the ground/speed bumps. 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted March 16, 2019 Report Share Posted March 16, 2019 My muffler shop will do my 520 from the new all the way back for $125. This is one of the things that the pain during and after is not with saving a some money. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2019 1 hour ago, wayno said: It looks goofy if you don't extend the rear skirt also. Yes I agree.... that's basically what I'm thinking with the body line to the rear.... I've even thought about forming my own front lip/valance.... I'm not a fan of the duck bill ones, plus I dont have the lower valance up front to mount it on, so I wanna try to do something different.... And I'll make sure the exhaust doesnt hang down, trust I'm trying to keep it up and hidden the best I can... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 16, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 16, 2019 1 hour ago, Charlie69 said: My muffler shop will do my 520 from the new all the way back for $125. This is one of the things that the pain during and after is not with saving a some money. Ya I go quoted $300 for only about half way, the guy was barely even listening to me explain what I needed.... I figure it would be closer to $500 to get it set up like I wanted.... because I needed a new muffler too.... no thanks... I would rather do it myself at this point... and I hate exhaust work.... 3 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 17, 2019 Report Share Posted March 17, 2019 The reason I started building my own exhaust systems is because muffler shops and I don't seem to share the same values. I want it nice and tucked. I want OEM grade hangers, not those cut up strips of tire. I want smart connection points, not three bolt flanges. Building one yourself will be rewarding. If it comes out the way you envisioned it. BTW- I would skip the cutout. Datsun L motors sound like crap without a muffler. Yes, there is a huge difference in cost between a muffler shop job and one of my hand built stainless exhaust systems. Mine go for about $2500, but that's on a V8 with a lot of work put into the y-pipe. The hangers are so important to me. I try to recreate modern original equipment hangers to allow for flex and isolation from the body, but I also make sure they don't wiggle around too much. Check out these hangers I build using 3/8" stainless rod and these - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pye-tphv6/overview/ 5 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 I like the hangers.... If I can get my exhaust to come out half as good as yours I'd be happy..... And you guys are killing me about the cutout..... now I'm really rethinking it... What's probably gonna happen is I'll redo from the collector to the muffler adding the nice bends and resonator and keep the muffler and stack in place to see how it sounds.... 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2019 This shine guy showed up today..... still waiting on the exhaust pipes and bends... Looks like it will fit where I want it and not hang lower than the frame..... Still messing with the reverse/5th.... I tried to get some penetrating oil up in the side but access is pretty tight.... I have the spring back in and I can still get it to move to the reverse/5th for now.... but it doesn't kick me back center, even from 1st/2nd.. Maybe I just need to run it.... 4 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 Well it's still letting me get over to 5th/rev so I'm gonna get the boot back on and hope for the best..... I had delusions of coming home and taking the truck for a drive, weather is getting nicer, hitting high 50s low 60s yesterday and today. ... then I remembered I pissed all the fluid out of the slave cylinder and I'm still up on jack stands.... Dang it..... Oh well at least the rest of the parts showed up for the exhaust... No excuses now, gotta get that done and get back to driving..... 3 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 Beautiful weather is the ultimate motivator for working on your car! 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 I bought a new slave for mine, so I have to do all that from scratch! I hate bleeding stuff. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 4 hours ago, mainer311 said: I bought a new slave for mine, so I have to do all that from scratch! I hate bleeding stuff. I hear you there..... brake fluid is awful to deal with followed buy the coolant.... And you should be able to change the slave with fluid in the line and bleed it fairly easy.... the clutch master is the pain when new and dry..... 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 My plan is to let the slave hang, and try gravity bleeding it that way. Figure if the bleeder is facing up, it’ll go smoother. What I’m unsure about is how to properly adjust the pushrod cone. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 I've rebuilt one slave and just replaced another and both times gravity bled them as fast as I could climb under and tighten the bleeder after filling the reservoir. I disassembled it and made sure there were no machining debris inside plus wet the seal with brake fluid so it wasn't dry when first used. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 26, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 13 minutes ago, mainer311 said: My plan is to let the slave hang, and try gravity bleeding it that way. Figure if the bleeder is facing up, it’ll go smoother. What I’m unsure about is how to properly adjust the pushrod cone. Are they even adjustable? I switched mine to a slave with the long threaded rod..... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 26, 2019 Report Share Posted March 26, 2019 Are slaves adjustable? Yes and no. The adjustable ones come with a return spring hole cast/drilled into them. The non-adjustable slaves do not. That's the easy way to tell. You can use an adjustable rod with either, but I don't recommend using a solid rod on an adjustable slave. How do you adjust it? After bleeding, just make sure it has a tiny bit of free play at both ends - at the pedal and at the fork. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 27, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2019 Well I got my clutch adjusted, and got lucky.... while I did dump a lot of fluid out, It didnt suck any air into the master.... there was maybe a couple mm of fluid still in it.... Next I buttoned up the shifter.... My not so stock shifter setup... 620 shifter with a pistol grip and an automatic 93 pathfinder shifter boot.... And then I pulled this out...... From the header to just behind the cab where the muffler is.... Now I have an adapter in place at the muffler to reduce it to 2" and one fitted to the header to reduce that to 2".... next I'll get the resonator where I want it and start making the connections.... 5 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 2, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2019 Well this hasn't worked out the way I planned..... I was trying to place the resonator as the exhaust crossed from driver to passenger side... Well it was too long..... luckily I was able to turn the 90 bend into 2 45s..... This allowed me to install the resonator at an angle and have enough room.... Then I made connections from the header, and got that routed to the torsion bar crossmember with a 45 and a straight piece of pipe... at the end Is the clamp and a small turn up towards the resonator.... now i have about a 6 inch gap left and I ran out of time..... I have a couple pieces cut that should close the gap.... just need to tack in place and mock up will be done.... I'll get some pics when I remove it to final weld what I need to..... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2019 Ok dont pick on me.. almost done with mocking up the exhaust.... I need to tac under the blue tape and then I'll remove everything to final weld and clean things up a bit... .... This is the lowest point as it comes under the crossmember.... Sorry pics were at bad angles... or just bad In general..... the resonator.... The tape was a nice trick, kept my cut lines straight and held things in place for me..... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2019 Only had about 20 minutes after work but that was enough time to finish tac welding things in place and to pull everything out.... I wanted to make in a couple sections so its easier to remove the resonator if necessary..... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 Got signed up for this today... 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted April 5, 2019 Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 Oooo, food trucks! 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 5, 2019 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2019 Well this afternoon almost went well .. got out out work half hour early so I could weld up the exhaust before I had to pick up my son from school..... And as luck has it I ran out of wire in the welder..... now I'm just hoping my tank of argon lasts long enough.... 1 Quote Link to comment
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