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Crashtd420

A 521 in Massachusetts

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That the slave piston popped out is like one of two things, either the rod is not adjusted properly, or you have the wrong clutch collar in there.

Unless you put a different transmission in there nothing should have changed, I see this is a different transmission, what clutch arm/collar did you use with this transmission?

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2 hours ago, wayno said:

That the slave piston popped out is like one of two things, either the rod is not adjusted properly, or you have the wrong clutch collar in there.

Unless you put a different transmission in there nothing should have changed, I see this is a different transmission, what clutch arm/collar did you use with this transmission?

I'm sure the clutch collar and arm are correct, same set I've always ran with my clutch..... 

It does engage and release proper,  I just put too much foot to the pedal.... 

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2 hours ago, datzenmike said:

 

 It'll be the hole or the carpet you wait and see.

Crossing my fingers that's the case..... 

 

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Well it was not the hole..... there is inches of clearance all around.... 

Looks like I have no choice but to pull the transmission out..... 

So disappointing...... 

I figure I'll have a look under the front cover and a couple other external things, but I'll bet I have to split the case again to really see what's up.... that's gonna suck if that's true.... oh well done for today....  

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Ok well I couldn't leave things alone..

I had a thought and sure enough I found the problem.... 

Whatever is under here.....

Screenshot-20190313-180323-Gallery.jpg

 

Once I removed the plug and the spring I was able to get it into 5th and reverse no problem.... 

 

I think there is something in the hole, a plunger of some sort, but I never removed it.... i did remove the plug and spring during disassembly and cleaned inside, but never removed whatever was in there... when it was on the bench  I saw it moving out when I messed with the shifter and I could push it in but i couldn't remove it....  I figured since it was moving in and out that it was good....

 

I didnt get to put the spring back in and test the shifter, once I knew what was wrong I was satisfied.... I'll  finish things up another day...

 

So what going on?

Why did it get stuck?

 

And it did work before,  because I do remember now testing to see if the brake light switch worked....

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And no I did have to remove the transmission,  I was lucky enough to have enough room to remove the plug...

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1kT3TgN.jpg

 

Attached to the striking rod is a longitudinal groove that this plug fits into. It aligns along the 3 neutral 4 gate. When you move it left in neutral into the 1-2 gate or right into the 5th-R gate the striking rod rotates and that plug is forced out of that groove but being spring loaded it wants back in. You will note that if you are in the neutral gate and pull the shifter to the left and let go of it, it automatically moves back into the 3-4 gate. Same if you move to the right between 5th and Rev.... if you let go it self centers in the 3-4 gate.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

1kT3TgN.jpg

 

Attached to the striking rod is a longitudinal groove that this plug fits into. It aligns along the 3 neutral 4 gate. When you move it left in neutral into the 1-2 gate or right into the 5th-R gate the striking rod rotates and that plug is forced out of that groove but being spring loaded it wants back in. You will note that if you are in the neutral gate and pull the shifter to the left and let go of it, it automatically moves back into the 3-4 gate. Same if you move to the right between 5th and Rev.... if you let go it self centers in the 3-4 gate.

This is good to know because mine does not self center.... 

So that might be something... 

 

Sounds like I should have tried to free that piece up..... 

So would it be that area in the upper right....  I guess I did remove it....

 

20181216-141133.jpg

 

Does the arm its suppose touch look correct?

I mean like  length and that end....

Could that little end cap get miss aligned?

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Is that even the right spot or is it located further up in the tail sectiont from this view....

 

Edited by Crashtd420
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Oh I know what that spot is.... that's where that little item that prevents shifting from 5th directly to reverse....

 

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Ok so back to the problem, what should I do?

Does that little plug at the end of the spring need to come out?

Could it have gotten misaligned?

 

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It sounds like yours was never aligned if it doesn't return to center. That leads me to believe that it could have bound up and prevented the striking rod from rotating in that direction. If you remove the spring from the plug, is there any discernible feature on the inside of the plug that you can use to rotate it properly while pushing it all the way in? Then just drop the spring in and put the cap back on. 

 

In your image above, you can't see where that plug goes because it's way down above the bushing for the companion flange. Plus, the only sign of it is the small drilled thru-hole that intersects with the striking rod hole, so it would be more visible from the back.

Edited by mainer311
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If it, or the striking rod were never removed it would stay together in alignment. If removing the tail it and the reverse check sleeve don't need to be removed.

 

A broken spring would maybe cause non centering. It's very subtle.

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1 hour ago, mainer311 said:

It sounds like yours was never aligned if it doesn't return to center. That leads me to believe that it could have bound up and prevented the striking rod from rotating in that direction. If you remove the spring from the plug, is there any discernible feature on the inside of the plug that you can use to rotate it properly while pushing it all the way in? Then just drop the spring in and put the cap back on. 

 

 

Not really sure , that's my next step. I personally think it was stuck out and not working correct for years... 

And I freed it up... and I can only assume it got stuck again.... there must be some corrosion in the hole.... 

By Mike's picture there is a hole that might be the indicator.... 

I have a small mirror, I'm gonna try to take a look and see where it is and if I can get it out with a magnet....

 

And to this part of your comment you lost me.....

 

"In your image above, you can't see where that plug goes because it's way down above the bushing for the companion flange. Plus, the only sign of it is the small drilled thru-hole that intersects with the striking rod hole, so it would be more visible from the back."

 

I definitely posted the wrong image, 

In my pic I thing that rod with the stuff attached has to be disassembled from the inside first...

I dont know any of the names of things so it's hard for me to describe.... I get what's going just need to figure the fix without having to remove or disassemble the transmission .....

 

 

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

If it, or the striking rod were never removed it would stay together in alignment. If removing the tail it and the reverse check sleeve don't need to be removed.

 

A broken spring would maybe cause non centering. It's very subtle.

Mike Is there another spring other that the one you showed in the pic ?

The spring I removed with the cap seemed good.... not broken that I could tell.... but there was rust on the end of the spring. ....

 

And the part on the end that accepts the shifter ....

20181214_135822.jpg

 

Kind of a bad pic,  but I never removed... 

 

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The 'finger sticking down is part f the striking rod that selects the gears. The other thing pointing more to the right is blocked by the reverse check sleeve from traveling forward into reverse if you are behind it in 5th. If the striking rod comes in from the neutral gate it will shove the check sleeve out of the way first. 

 

Yes it is bolted on with a cotter pin like an old bike crankshaft sprocket. There's no way to remove the striking rod out the back without removing this.... and no need to really if it's never been messed with. I tried once and gave up. You just can't drive that cotter pin out. Easily

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The pic is just before I realized you have to rotate the tail housing some to get it off.... so it looks a little wierd.... 

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1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

The 'finger sticking down is part f the striking rod that selects the gears. The other thing pointing more to the right is blocked by the reverse check sleeve from traveling forward into reverse if you are behind it in 5th. If the striking rod comes in from the neutral gate it will shove the check sleeve out of the way first. 

 

Yes it is bolted on with a cotter pin like an old bike crankshaft sprocket. There's no way to remove the striking rod out the back without removing this.... and no need to really if it's never been messed with. I tried once and gave up. You just can't drive that cotter pin out. Easily

Yes that's why I left it alone too.... 

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Funny you mention that spring... the one in that picture was a single but some when in the past I pulled one apart and there were two springs a smaller shorter one in the middle. May have been a 510 or B210 ??? Long time ago. I'll have a look through my reference books tonight.

 

Two would have been firmer inward pressure out to the extreme left and right but easy in the 3/4 gate. 

 

 

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Re: above comment. Looks like most have the 2 springs. The late 620 71B 5 speed and my '79 zx 5 speed have a single spring.... so I don't know what to say.

 

32852-24901 smaller inside spring

32856-24901 larger outer spring

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Well I figure since I'm already back up on jack stands I might add the resonator to the exhaust and my start redoing the rest.... well I bought this .....

 

20190314-165759.jpg

 

Had 2" pipes and a slightly larger resonator....

 

20190314-165804.jpg

 

What a piece of shit..... I was trying to do the one stop shop, nope that's not gonna work.... that promptly got returned......

I'm just gonna by some mandrel bent tubes and a separate resonator and do it right....

 

 

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It's 'good enough'.

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So hopefully I can make a better system with this stuff....

 

Screenshot-20190316-115358-Email.jpg

Screenshot-20190316-122807-e-Bay.jpg

 

Plus a couple of these...

Screenshot-20190316-123642-e-Bay.jpg

 

I hate the ones that just crush the pipe so I'll see how these do... I'll weld most of it up but the resonator and cutout are stainless so I'll use these at those joints...

 

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9 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

It's 'good enough'.

Not for me.....

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