Crashtd420 Posted December 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2018 35 minutes ago, d.p said: So I can buy one of these and get a bell housing from a 71b transmission with an L bolt pattern? Basically yes, plus a few more items ... The only question I have is why it's called a 71f? Newer version maybe? I did measure my tailhousing and its 11 inch vs the 12 or 16.5 inches they say ... but the center plate is 1 inch so maybe they are including that in the measurement... You'll definitely need the correct bearing for the L case and you will probably have to drill the shifter rod hole as Mike described ... there maybe are other mods neccessary due to a newer design.. but still it should be possible.. I would call them and ask some questions if you were serious.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2018 Well I got a few things knocked off my to do list... Got the seal removed from the tailhousing, I was able to verify the reverse switch will work, and installed the 56mm bearing... Gonna try to clean the cases Friday, its supposed to be almost 60 degrees out. Decided to change out the oil pump next to the high volume pump.. Used a method I think datsunmike posted ... Removed the base with the distributor attached.... held onto the oil pump spindle with some vise grips... Dont have to mess with the timing this way.... I was lucky and had a could spare gaskets..... That was about it for today.... Gonna setup to reseal the oil pan and probably start pulling the driveshaft and trans mount next... And hopefully get my friend over to seal and assemble the transmission..... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 Well I cleaned up the front case and cover and the tailhousing.... I still need to tighten that nut everyone was talking about.... it was staked but it is definitely not tight.... I can wiggle it.... also the nut that is below it is just as loose.... i ran out of time trying to unstake those so I can tighten them up, once that's done I can reassemble..... I was able to install a new tail housing seal.... And in the cover plate.... Also You can see the connection groove I added, connecting the shifter rod and bearing area.... the cover I took off the other bellhousing had that groove, nissan made that change for some reason so I figured I'd replicate it... 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 20, 2018 Report Share Posted December 20, 2018 I realize that Nissan put that grove in the large bearing type transmissions, but the only reason I can see for that groove is to maybe lube the back side of the shift rods as that area has no exit except for the groove you made, the other groove is there for a couple reasons, one is to lube that lower bearing, the other reason is to have a place for the oil to go getting thru that upper bearing other than out the front cover into the clutch area. 1 Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 23, 2018 Report Share Posted December 23, 2018 Figured I'd chime in with nothing useful to say except there is some useful information here. I may go this same route, except I may not tear both ends of my trans... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 23, 2018 Report Share Posted December 23, 2018 You do understand that the seal between the front case-mid plate and the rear case-mod plate are held tight by the same bolts? Removing the bolts will probably compromise both sealing materials, so it makes sense to take them both off at the same time. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2018 24 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: You do understand that the seal between the front case-mid plate and the rear case-mod plate are held tight by the same bolts? Removing the bolts will probably compromise both sealing materials, so it makes sense to take them both off at the same time. That and honestly its foolish not to go the one step further and take both off..... Once you do it once you really won't believe how easy it is to do..... Plus there are 2 nuts in that tailhousing that should be checked for tightness.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 23, 2018 Report Share Posted December 23, 2018 Hey Crash, do you have access to a lathe? If so, why not make one of those extended sockets for the tailshaft nut? The you can use an impact gun to tighten the nut. I'll snap a pic of the ones I made later today. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 23, 2018 Report Share Posted December 23, 2018 On 12/20/2018 at 2:46 PM, wayno said: I realize that Nissan put that grove in the large bearing type transmissions, but the only reason I can see for that groove is to maybe lube the back side of the shift rods as that area has no exit except for the groove you made, the other groove is there for a couple reasons, one is to lube that lower bearing, the other reason is to have a place for the oil to go getting thru that upper bearing other than out the front cover into the clutch area. wayno the groove is likely to let oil out from behind the shift rods. It gets in easy enough and would be stagnant otherwise. This way it circulates though the counter bearing as well. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2018 4 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Hey Crash, do you have access to a lathe? If so, why not make one of those extended sockets for the tailshaft nut? The you can use an impact gun to tighten the nut. I'll snap a pic of the ones I made later today. Well technically I do have access, but since my company changed from a family owned company to full corporate things have changed.. they let me run a pair of machines that are worth around 3million, but i can barely use a hand grinder for personal stuff..... We have a large drill press with a rotary table that can index to specified degrees. All I needed to do was redrill just 4 holes in between the original holes, total of an inch of aluminum between the 4 holes, in a atv rim on a Sunday after I finish my work.. and got in trouble. my boss said ok but dont get caught, well of course his boss came in for some damn reason and I got caught... I was told only qualified operators should be running this ancient drill press, i said " really I'm not qualified", whatever and finished up, I figured if I was gonna get in trouble I might as well make it worth it and finish ... we would call it government work around the shop.... well that ship has passed..... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2018 So here is a question how tight do those 2 nuts need to be? I know this is the main one we are discussing.... And what about this one just below it? Both wiggle around buy hand..... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 23, 2018 Report Share Posted December 23, 2018 Main shaft......... 100-125 ft. lbs. Counter shaft...... 75-100 ft.lbs. Not the end of the world if not exact. It works even if just barely snug (and probably for tens of thousands of miles) and the nut can't back off completely. I just used a large crescent wrench with a pipe on the end. It maybe moved 1/5? of a turn. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2018 2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Hey Crash, do you have access to a lathe? If so, why not make one of those extended sockets for the tailshaft nut? The you can use an impact gun to tighten the nut. I'll snap a pic of the ones I made later today. We have a couple sets of these at work I would think that would work on a torque wrench pretty good..... But then again I'll probably do it like Mike did..... 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 24, 2018 Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 Big crescent wrench with a pipe will work fine. You'll need to figure out how to hold it while tightening it though. Both of those nuts look factory staked, which makes one wonder about the forces it takes to wear, ever so slightly, the gear hubs and thrust washers over time. Enough to take all the torque out of the nuts. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 Well looks like I need a size 27mm and a 38mm so probably not buying something.. I'm thinking about drilling a hole and welding a socket into the side of my adjustable and trying to torque it that way...... Then I'll have an adjustable clawfoot.... Damn they exist.... I thought I had a money maker idea going.... still gonna make my own...... 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 24, 2018 Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 Open end wrenches as well as adjustable ones aren't very good when tightening or loosening with a heavy load. A box end or socket is much better. Remove that bearing and cut a socket and weld to a pipe long enough to slip over the mainshaft. Weld the other end on and use a torquewrench. Well,...... if you tighten more than one mainshaft nut per week that is. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 6 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Open end wrenches as well as adjustable ones aren't very good when tightening or loosening with a heavy load. A box end or socket is much better. Remove that bearing and cut a socket and weld to a pipe long enough to slip over the mainshaft. Weld the other end on and use a torquewrench. Well,...... if you tighten more than one mainshaft nut per week that is. I've been thinking of a few different ways to get it done.... if I had to tighten things daily I'd spend the money over engineer something.... not worth it for 2 nuts, I'll get it right enough..... 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 24, 2018 Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 These are the long sockets I was talking about. One is for stock 4 spd (1 5/16"), the other is for the 5 spd (1 5/8"). 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 Well I'm having issues unstaking those 2 nuts..... Any tricks to that? Since that gave me issues I decided to play with the door locks..... I bought new locks and surprisingly they were incorrect ..... The 521 has a small step on the plate that connects the cylinder to the lock rod. ... my new ones were flat.. 2 bends a little welding and drilling and I have working locks finally. Pulled it back out to put some paint on the metal.. Not the prettiest but it works.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 Oh almost forgot I finally restarted my truck for a moment to check the oil pressure before I actually drained the oil and pulled the oil pan off... what a difference the high volume pump makes..... Idle was in the 30 -40 psi range to start and when I gave it some throttle I had a solid 60psi..... 2 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 24, 2018 Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 Dremel with a small cutoff wheel would be my choice for those staked nuts. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 44 minutes ago, thisismatt said: Dremel with a small cutoff wheel would be my choice for those staked nuts. That's kind of the way I was leaning... Now I just need to find my dremel and see if I still have some small wheels.... 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 24, 2018 Report Share Posted December 24, 2018 You will probably go through a bunch of the unreinforced ones, but the smaller diameter works better. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 25, 2018 Report Share Posted December 25, 2018 You don't need to un-stake the nuts to remove them, but you do need to stake them at install. I would use some red loctite on them too. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2018 6 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: You don't need to un-stake the nuts to remove them, but you do need to stake them at install. I would use some red loctite on them too. Wont that mess up the threads? 1 Quote Link to comment
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