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A 521 in Massachusetts


Crashtd420

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11 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

I probably will.... at least I know it would fit.... I'm gonna check through my old parts boxes first.... 

I'm excited to have the 5 SPD in for next year ..... it snowed today so the 521 will be hibernating for the winter...... 

I already miss driving it.....

Very nice, changing that bushing makes a world of difference.  My truck is always hibernating.  lol

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Well I only found the pin.... 

Ended up ordering the bushing set and a shift knob today.... needed one of those too.....

Went with a pistol grip...

Screenshot-20181117-194951-e-Bay.jpg

 

Got the transmission and bellhousing in the garage ready for surgery....

 

20181117-154206.jpg

 

Also got a bunch of parts and supplies that need to be installed or used.....

 

20181117-154215.jpg

 

Should keep me busy for the winter.....

 

 

 

 

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I've had that 5spd as long as I've owned my datsun, i had it bolted in crooked but it worked..  I believe it has the bellhousing for a ka..  I almost sold it 3 times,  till I believe datsunmike told me about swapping the bellhousing, I quickly took it off ebay...

The beauty is once i swap the bellhousing this will bolt in just like my 4spd.... no other mod..... 

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14 minutes ago, wayno said:

You also have to modify your transmission mount.

Why? 

I am already using this mount for my 4spd and it's the same as the what bolts to the 5spd... 

Screenshot-20181117-213040-Chrome.jpg

Even if I had the old 521 mount it should still bolt right up.... the length is the same, I believe the rear mounting location is the same on both transmissions.... 

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9 hours ago, wayno said:

It needs to be lower so the transmission doesn't hit the tunnel and slightly farther back, someone else will chime in here with some photos.

Isn't that just for the long tail 71b 5spd?

I've had the transmission in before, but like I said it was crooked.... it was over the rear mount but I didn't bolt it down, I may have secured it with some wire at the time.... 

I had plenty of clearance to the tunnel...

Either way I have a parts 63 series 4spd like I currently have in the truck, I'll take some measurements from the tail shaft to the mounting plate, if I need to adjust the bracket that's not a big deal....

 

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On 11/16/2018 at 8:18 AM, Crashtd420 said:

 

Screenshot-20181116-111313-e-Bay.jpg

 

Are these all the same if the part of the transmission where the shifter goes looks like this?

 

 

 

That bushing kit will fit all 71B 4 and 5 speeds Sept '71 through '86.5 as well as the 1200, B210, 210 4 & 5 speeds, and the A10 and S10 doglegs. 

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4 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Nylon also comes in clear. I don't know why those are but they work the same. 

 

I used a bronze door hinge repair bushing on my truck once. 

pHk0t8I.jpg

 

BkafAeB.jpg

 

Had to slice lengthwise and pinch together but nice snug fit

I thought about doing that and just took the easy way out....

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Wish we knew there was a kit. We also made a pin since our donor dog leg was missing shifter arm and pin. Thought we were looking for a 9mm bolt which was a tall order. Had machinist at work lathe a 9mm pin and we welded a washer on one side, drilled a cotter key hole. As for the plastic bushings we found one of them when we located the shifter arm but no pin. In my trade we use a sleeve for splicing wire together, those sleeves ship with plastic plugs in the end, they are very close to the required inside diameter to receive the pin.

 

32068970688_c485db56d5.jpg

 

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Edited by sondat
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This is how I removed a lot of the slop in the shifter.
First, you need to get the seat out of the way, to get access to the plate covering the top of the transmission.  My garage is too tight to remove the seat out of the truck, and it was late last night and raining, so I just raised the seat on two short pieces of 4x4 wood.
SeatOnBlock1.JPG
The far side of the seat on a block.
SeatOnBlock2.JPG
 
Now would be a good time to remove the shift knob,
ShiftKnobOff.JPG
 
Then remove the transmission cover plate screws, and then the cover plate.
TranCoverPlate.JPG
 
TranCoverPlate2.JPG
 
TranCoverPlate3.JPG
 
That exposes the shift lever pivot pin. 
ShiftPivot1.JPG
This is the gap in the shifter with the lever moved right.
ShiftPivot2.JPG
 
ShiftPivot3.JPG
 
In the last picture, the pin clip is open side up, I carefully pushed it around the pin until the opening is down, with a smaller blade screwdriver.  Then I used the screrwdriver to carefully pry the clip off the pin.  Put the screwdriver blade in the opening of the clip, and twist the screwdriver against the pin, and the clip will come up.  I also held my thumb against the clip, so to would not spring off somewhere I could not find it.  Even thought the body parts of a 521 are Imperial measurements, the engine and transmission are metric, and it would be hard to find a Metric "E" clip.
ShiftPivotClip.JPG
 
With the clip off the pin, then you can start to push the pin out of the lever.
ShiftPivot5.JPG
 
Here I am using the screwdriver to pry the pin more out of the shift lever.  after the screwdriver will not move it any farther, it should come out with your fingers, or maybe a pair of pliers.
ShiftPivotPinRemoval.JPG
 
 
These are the parts I got at Ace Hardware.  The flanged bronze bushing has nominal inside diameter of 3/8 of the inch, and an outside diameter for half of an inch.   The brass washers are 5/16 inch ID, and 3/4 inch OD.
AceBushingWashers.JPG
 
If you can take the pivot pin with you, the pin will go into the bronze bushing,
PinInBushing.JPG
 
The pin will not go into the brass washers.
PinNotInWashers.JPG
 
I used a tapered reamer to slightly open up the hole in the brass washers.
WasherReam.JPG
 
And tested the brass washers on the pin.
WashersOnPin.JPG
 
Then you need to use a file to remove any burrs from reaming the hole in the washers. 
WashersOnFile.JPG
 
Then you need to modify the bushing.  This is the hole on the shift lever.
ShifterHole.JPG
 
and this is the bushing diameter.
BushingDiameter.JPG

 

The bushing is to long also, and has a flange on it.  i cut the flange off with a 1/32 cutoff wheel in a die grinder,

BushingCut1.JPG

 

and then cut the length of the bushing, so it could be squeezed together.

BushingCut2.JPG

 

Then I used a pair of vice grips to close the gap in the bushing.

BushingClamped1.JPG

 

BushingClamped2.JPG

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Now install the bushing in the lever.  I ground a slight taper on the bushing, and started that end of the bushing onto the lever.  Then I used a vise to press the modified bushing into the shift lever.  This is hard to explain, but you want use some force to push the bushing in the lever, but not so much force as to damage or break the bushing.  But it cannot go in too easily or the next few steps will be difficult.
BushingLeverPress.JPG
 
This is just some excess bushing.  It will be cut off with the 1/32 cutoff disk.
BushingPressed.JPG
 
I used a punch and a hammer to drive the bushing all the way through the hole in the shift lever.
ExcessBushing.JPG
 
Then I cut the excess bushing off.  try not to cut into the shift lever like I did.
ExcessBushingCut.JPG
 
After cutting the bushing, I used a file to smooth both sides of the bushing and the shift lever.
BushingFiled.JPG
 
The slot cut in the bushing, and pressing it into the lever now makes the hole in the lever too small for the pin.  I drilled the hole with a 23/64 drill, to provide clearance for the pin.  this is why the bushing needs to be kind of tight in the shift lever, so it can be drilled without spinning in the lever hole.
BushingDrilled.JPG
 
Just another view of the drill in the bushing.
BushingDrilled2.JPG
 
This is a close up of a metal drill gauge.  It is really handy to have around.  why did I choose a 23/64 drill?  because that is the smallest holes in the drill gauge the shift lever pin would fit into.
DrillGauge.JPG
 
 
Try to fit the pin in the bushing pressed in the shift lever.  When it fits, file the sides of the shift lever again, to remove any burrs.  Try the pin again, it still should go in the bushing in the lever.
 
Now the bushed lever can be put back in the transmission.  Start the pin into the transmission lever pivot.
PinStart.JPG
 
Put one of the brass washers on the pin.
PinWasher.JPG
 
Put the lever in the transmission with the end of the lever in the shift rod end in the bottom of the hole, and slide the pin into the lever.  Then put the second brass washer in the space between the lever and the ear of the transmission pin pivot.  Now the fun begins.  You have to move the second washer around until it's hole lines up with the pin.  I used the edge of a cold chisel to move the brass washer.  the second washer need to move forward, and down to line up, in this picture.
PinInLever.JPG
 
I missed a picture, I used this chisel on the brass washer to move the washer around until the hole lined up, just like I am moving the pin clip.
ChiselOnClip.JPG

It took a lot of time to get the second brass washer to where it needed to be to line up, but i got it in the correct place, after about 20 minutes.
PinFinished.JPG
 
This is just another picture of using a cold chisel to push the pin clip around.
chiselOnClip2.JPG
 
This is a small rubber boot that goes over the shift lever, and keeps dirt and crud out of the hole the shift lever engages the shift rod in the transmission.   I got it from Dick Hanna Nissan Friday March 25, 2018.
SmallLeverBoot.JPG
 
This is that boot on the transmission.
SmallBootOn.JPG
 
I then put the transmission cover plate with the shift boot over the shift lever.  No picture of screwing it down, do you really need that?
TransPlateOn.JPG
 
Then I put the knob on the transmission shift lever. 
KnobOn.JPG

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Got the bushing set in, and the shift knob.... 

Everthing fit together as it should....

My friend wants to swap the case so hopefully within the next week hes gonna come by so we can get that started.... 

Is there anything that's gonna fall out or anything to look out for when I pull the front case?

Seems straightforward but I've never done it.....

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