mrbigtanker Posted November 16, 2018 Report Share Posted November 16, 2018 11 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: I probably will.... at least I know it would fit.... I'm gonna check through my old parts boxes first.... I'm excited to have the 5 SPD in for next year ..... it snowed today so the 521 will be hibernating for the winter...... I already miss driving it..... Very nice, changing that bushing makes a world of difference. My truck is always hibernating. lol 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 Well I only found the pin.... Ended up ordering the bushing set and a shift knob today.... needed one of those too..... Went with a pistol grip... Got the transmission and bellhousing in the garage ready for surgery.... Also got a bunch of parts and supplies that need to be installed or used..... Should keep me busy for the winter..... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 Niiiice. Where did you get the 5 speed from? I would love a 5 speed in my truck. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 I've had that 5spd as long as I've owned my datsun, i had it bolted in crooked but it worked.. I believe it has the bellhousing for a ka.. I almost sold it 3 times, till I believe datsunmike told me about swapping the bellhousing, I quickly took it off ebay... The beauty is once i swap the bellhousing this will bolt in just like my 4spd.... no other mod..... 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 You also have to modify your transmission mount. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 14 minutes ago, wayno said: You also have to modify your transmission mount. Why? I am already using this mount for my 4spd and it's the same as the what bolts to the 5spd... Even if I had the old 521 mount it should still bolt right up.... the length is the same, I believe the rear mounting location is the same on both transmissions.... 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 It needs to be lower so the transmission doesn't hit the tunnel and slightly farther back, someone else will chime in here with some photos. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 OK, so this is what I had, a modified 521 tranny mount, see how low it is on the cross member. I made these for a while and was selling them, they used the rubber mount you have. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 This is the stock height for a 4 speed. This is the height needed for the 5 speed. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 9 hours ago, wayno said: It needs to be lower so the transmission doesn't hit the tunnel and slightly farther back, someone else will chime in here with some photos. Isn't that just for the long tail 71b 5spd? I've had the transmission in before, but like I said it was crooked.... it was over the rear mount but I didn't bolt it down, I may have secured it with some wire at the time.... I had plenty of clearance to the tunnel... Either way I have a parts 63 series 4spd like I currently have in the truck, I'll take some measurements from the tail shaft to the mounting plate, if I need to adjust the bracket that's not a big deal.... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 On 11/16/2018 at 8:18 AM, Crashtd420 said: Are these all the same if the part of the transmission where the shifter goes looks like this? That bushing kit will fit all 71B 4 and 5 speeds Sept '71 through '86.5 as well as the 1200, B210, 210 4 & 5 speeds, and the A10 and S10 doglegs. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 3 minutes ago, datzenmike said: That bushing kit will fit all 71B 4 and 5 speeds Sept '71 through '86.5 as well as the 1200, B210, 210 4 & 5 speeds, and the A10 and S10 doglegs. Hopefully it's what I need because i ordered it..... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 Nylon also comes in clear. I don't know why those are but they work the same. I used a bronze door hinge repair bushing on my truck once. Had to slice lengthwise and pinch together but nice snug fit 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 4 minutes ago, datzenmike said: Nylon also comes in clear. I don't know why those are but they work the same. I used a bronze door hinge repair bushing on my truck once. Had to slice lengthwise and pinch together but nice snug fit I thought about doing that and just took the easy way out.... 1 Quote Link to comment
sondat Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 (edited) Wish we knew there was a kit. We also made a pin since our donor dog leg was missing shifter arm and pin. Thought we were looking for a 9mm bolt which was a tall order. Had machinist at work lathe a 9mm pin and we welded a washer on one side, drilled a cotter key hole. As for the plastic bushings we found one of them when we located the shifter arm but no pin. In my trade we use a sleeve for splicing wire together, those sleeves ship with plastic plugs in the end, they are very close to the required inside diameter to receive the pin. Edited November 18, 2018 by sondat 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 This is how I removed a lot of the slop in the shifter. First, you need to get the seat out of the way, to get access to the plate covering the top of the transmission. My garage is too tight to remove the seat out of the truck, and it was late last night and raining, so I just raised the seat on two short pieces of 4x4 wood. The far side of the seat on a block. Now would be a good time to remove the shift knob, Then remove the transmission cover plate screws, and then the cover plate. That exposes the shift lever pivot pin. This is the gap in the shifter with the lever moved right. In the last picture, the pin clip is open side up, I carefully pushed it around the pin until the opening is down, with a smaller blade screwdriver. Then I used the screrwdriver to carefully pry the clip off the pin. Put the screwdriver blade in the opening of the clip, and twist the screwdriver against the pin, and the clip will come up. I also held my thumb against the clip, so to would not spring off somewhere I could not find it. Even thought the body parts of a 521 are Imperial measurements, the engine and transmission are metric, and it would be hard to find a Metric "E" clip. With the clip off the pin, then you can start to push the pin out of the lever. Here I am using the screwdriver to pry the pin more out of the shift lever. after the screwdriver will not move it any farther, it should come out with your fingers, or maybe a pair of pliers. These are the parts I got at Ace Hardware. The flanged bronze bushing has nominal inside diameter of 3/8 of the inch, and an outside diameter for half of an inch. The brass washers are 5/16 inch ID, and 3/4 inch OD. If you can take the pivot pin with you, the pin will go into the bronze bushing, The pin will not go into the brass washers. I used a tapered reamer to slightly open up the hole in the brass washers. And tested the brass washers on the pin. Then you need to use a file to remove any burrs from reaming the hole in the washers. Then you need to modify the bushing. This is the hole on the shift lever. and this is the bushing diameter. The bushing is to long also, and has a flange on it. i cut the flange off with a 1/32 cutoff wheel in a die grinder, and then cut the length of the bushing, so it could be squeezed together. Then I used a pair of vice grips to close the gap in the bushing. 3 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted November 18, 2018 Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 Now install the bushing in the lever. I ground a slight taper on the bushing, and started that end of the bushing onto the lever. Then I used a vise to press the modified bushing into the shift lever. This is hard to explain, but you want use some force to push the bushing in the lever, but not so much force as to damage or break the bushing. But it cannot go in too easily or the next few steps will be difficult. This is just some excess bushing. It will be cut off with the 1/32 cutoff disk. I used a punch and a hammer to drive the bushing all the way through the hole in the shift lever. Then I cut the excess bushing off. try not to cut into the shift lever like I did. After cutting the bushing, I used a file to smooth both sides of the bushing and the shift lever. The slot cut in the bushing, and pressing it into the lever now makes the hole in the lever too small for the pin. I drilled the hole with a 23/64 drill, to provide clearance for the pin. this is why the bushing needs to be kind of tight in the shift lever, so it can be drilled without spinning in the lever hole. Just another view of the drill in the bushing. This is a close up of a metal drill gauge. It is really handy to have around. why did I choose a 23/64 drill? because that is the smallest holes in the drill gauge the shift lever pin would fit into. Try to fit the pin in the bushing pressed in the shift lever. When it fits, file the sides of the shift lever again, to remove any burrs. Try the pin again, it still should go in the bushing in the lever. Now the bushed lever can be put back in the transmission. Start the pin into the transmission lever pivot. Put one of the brass washers on the pin. Put the lever in the transmission with the end of the lever in the shift rod end in the bottom of the hole, and slide the pin into the lever. Then put the second brass washer in the space between the lever and the ear of the transmission pin pivot. Now the fun begins. You have to move the second washer around until it's hole lines up with the pin. I used the edge of a cold chisel to move the brass washer. the second washer need to move forward, and down to line up, in this picture. I missed a picture, I used this chisel on the brass washer to move the washer around until the hole lined up, just like I am moving the pin clip. It took a lot of time to get the second brass washer to where it needed to be to line up, but i got it in the correct place, after about 20 minutes. This is just another picture of using a cold chisel to push the pin clip around. This is a small rubber boot that goes over the shift lever, and keeps dirt and crud out of the hole the shift lever engages the shift rod in the transmission. I got it from Dick Hanna Nissan Friday March 25, 2018. This is that boot on the transmission. I then put the transmission cover plate with the shift boot over the shift lever. No picture of screwing it down, do you really need that? Then I put the knob on the transmission shift lever. 4 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2018 Nice write up as always daniel.... I almost forgot about that little boot, I remember seeing that once before... gonna get one of those on order too.... 3 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 19, 2018 Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 Daniel, your posts are always so perfectly composed and executed. I wish more forum users would take note. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2018 Thanks Daniel for the part number....ordered today from the dealer... $12... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Got the bushing set in, and the shift knob.... Everthing fit together as it should.... My friend wants to swap the case so hopefully within the next week hes gonna come by so we can get that started.... Is there anything that's gonna fall out or anything to look out for when I pull the front case? Seems straightforward but I've never done it..... 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 I wrote this way back when. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 Thanks Wayno that's exactly what I needed..... hopefully It goes as easy as your write up makes it seem.... 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 24, 2018 Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 (edited) Just keep in mind that I am only writing about how to change out the front case and bearing, it's not about how to rebuild a transmission. Edited November 24, 2018 by wayno Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2018 That's all I'm hoping to have to do.... I used the transmission before and it was flawless, so I'm hoping I dont find any issue when i swap the case.... Quote Link to comment
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