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A 521 in Massachusetts


Crashtd420

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My 521 with an internally regulated alternator is also charging at around 14.5 volts, and it is causing the battery to vent electrolyte a little bit.  I would like the charging voltage closer to 14.0 volts.   Less time having to check battery electrolyte level, and not having to clean as much under the battery tray.

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31 minutes ago, DanielC said:

My 521 with an internally regulated alternator is also charging at around 14.5 volts, and it is causing the battery to vent electrolyte a little bit.  I would like the charging voltage closer to 14.0 volts.   Less time having to check battery electrolyte level, and not having to clean as much under the battery tray.

I'll be keeping an eye on things and make sure .... everything always seems good in the garage..... 

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I think I'm ok..... I really just think my battery was extra low and it was trying to compensate, the starter was a little slow when I went to start the truck... I let it run for a little while I was checking things out and the voltage settled in around 14.2.... 

Started it again later on, it cranked a bit faster and charge was good.... 

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Doing work like it should....

 

20180928_154457.jpg

 

Dropped off some yard waste down at the dump today.... they recently installed readouts so you can see your weight as you enter and exit across the scales.. found out the truck weighs 2300lbs... tried for a pic but It was in the direction of the sun, so didnt get one....

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Well I can finally say my charging system is working like it should.... stayed at 14-14.2 the whole ride to work... lights, fans, fuel pump, heater all on.... 

Now back to the carburator....

Got a few different mains in the other day.... probably gonna get a couple more air correctors next week for some fine tuning of the top end.... so far that seems to be coming out ok....

My biggest problem seems to be my transition off idle, before the mains come in..... if I follow the adjustment procedures it suggests I need a slightly richer idle jet, so I go slightly richer and I can get the air fuel screw where I want it  but once I'm just off idle it goes rich till the mains come in..... 

So when I order the air correctors I'm thinking about a different emulsion tube also... 

I've found some other setups similar to mine and the f16 tube is used... 

The f16 is suppose to lean out the lower rpm , we will see..... atleast when i finally get to the dyno I will have plenty of jets and parts to choice from....

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Well that clear distributor cap was a piece of shit..... I put it on to go to the last local car cruise..... heading home i hit the throttle and about 5000 rpm she got real unhappy at any rpm...... luckily I had the other cap in the truck swapped it on the side of the road and I was back to normal.... so much for novalty.... it was cool to see the rotor spinning..... 

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On 9/24/2018 at 11:29 AM, Crashtd420 said:

So I'll admit I was trying to be cheap with buying some more main jets.... 

Pierce wants $11 shipping on whatever you buy.... 

Mainly its because in the end I only need the one correct set, and most of the money I'm  spending is infact a waste....

So I decided to try my luck and see what ebay had to offer....

Well I found 6 jets for $24, plus $4 to ship... genuine weber stuff, good reviews so I said why not..... so I ordered from these guys.....

Screenshot_20180924-141455_e_Bay.jpg

 

Well guess what its Pierce Manifold.... just got an email from them saying my jets shipped.... I guess I got lucky....

 

 

Take a jet and fill the hole with solder. Get the correct jet size you want in a drill and make your own. Once to get it correct you can leave it or buy the correct one once.

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1 hour ago, sondat said:

Good to know on the clear distributor cap because we were interested, cool concept to see the spark, not cool to loose performance.

Ya I'm not sure what happened... I was a bit quick to swap the caps because I had my kid with me and it was dark... tomorrow I'll compare the 2 and see what I find.....

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

 

 

Take a jet and fill the hole with solder. Get the correct jet size you want in a drill and make your own. Once to get it correct you can leave it or buy the correct one once.

I've thought about that.... I dont mind having a couple extras, if I need to go outside the range of what I have now I would probably do that... i have been swapping jets and changing things while driving, to see the effects of the emulsion tubes and the idle jets vs the main and air corrector...  it's become kind of an experiment to me to understand how things work... 

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12 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

I like that you are getting to know your Weber and your truck.  This really helps in case of a break down.

Yes it does, thats one of the good things about an old vehicle, you can do a quick fix on the side of the road if you need to... I actually have 2 caps in the truck, just in case.... I need to order a couple rotors too , just to have on hand... and I keep a set of plugs, a coil, my jet kit and tools behind the seat... 

I've read here people having a spare alternator or starter if they take a long trip... all easy fixes on the side of the road..... 

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 Last time I just made sure everything was working or replaced and in tune and put it out of my mind. If the starter was acting up, or the carb or alternator, I fix it at home. I did take tools though for the unexpected.... that never happened.  Well, a headlight did burn out.

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Well for some reason I decided to see what I was actually getting for gas mileage.... I think that was the first time I've actually topped off the tank since it's been back on the road.. I dont know if 22mpg on a 40dcoe is good or not but that's what I am getting.... I hope when I finally swap the 5spd in I might be able to get that number up a little by dropping my rpms on the highway.... 

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I have been tracking the gas mileage on Ratsun since I put the L-20-B engine in it.  22.79, 24.72, 21.93, three fill ups.  This is with not a lot of freeway driving, getting a load of hay about one a week, and coasting in neutral, engine off, on a part of a road on my way to work.

I am using the stock L-16 Hitachi carb with a manual choke on the L-20-B engine.

Typical load of hay.

HayLoad.JPG

 

Also got a ton of wood pellets on one of those tanks of gasoline.

Pellets2018A.JPG

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5 minutes ago, gene knight said:

those clear dizzy caps are junk, i had 1 on my vw bug and it lasted not even a month, i bought a oem from autozone and never had an issue

Yup. .. funny thing that clear cap I bought was for a bug,  the 123 ignition distributor uses a Volkswagen/audi cap... I put my bosch back on and bought a new one from autozone just to have one on hand.... I might put the clear one in while I'm parked at a show to show off the distributor but that's about it....

Edited by Crashtd420
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On 10/9/2018 at 4:13 PM, DanielC said:

I have been tracking the gas mileage on Ratsun since I put the L-20-B engine in it.  22.79, 24.72, 21.93, three fill ups.  This is with not a lot of freeway driving, getting a load of hay about one a week, and coasting in neutral, engine off, on a part of a road on my way to work.

I am using the stock L-16 Hitachi carb with a manual choke on the L-20-B engine.

Typical load of hay.

HayLoad.JPG

 

Also got a ton of wood pellets on one of those tanks of gasoline.

Pellets2018A.JPG

Try this with a Ford Ranger!

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"Japanese car days " is tomorrow at the Lars Anderson museum.... 

Raining today and suppose to rain monday, but luckily not tomorrow.....

It does mess me up a little, I planned to wash and clean the truck up when I got home from work and make sure everything is good for the ride.... it's about 45 miles to get there, while it doesnt seem that far it's still gonna be the furthest it's gone in one stretch....

 

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