wayno Posted September 16, 2018 Report Share Posted September 16, 2018 3 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: Ya those tabs are all missing.... I had different intentions about where I wanted to run the wiring and things didn't quite go as planned.... This probably wont be the last time I mess with the wiring harness, but it will be for a while..... They make them type of tabs that are mounted with bolts in various places on the 720 truck, there are a lot of them on the chassis/frame holding wiring and hard lines, you could mount them on the bottom side of the 521 inner fender bolts where the nut goes on tucked back in there where you could not even see them. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 16, 2018 Report Share Posted September 16, 2018 It went away once I got the wheels facing forward, but I hear what you're saying wayno. Positive caster is what makes the steering wheel spin back to center by itself after a corner. The more positive caster the straighter the car will track down the road but turning will be more effort. Conversely the less caster the more it will wander and the steering becomes a balancing on a knife edge. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 16, 2018 38 minutes ago, wayno said: They make them type of tabs that are mounted with bolts in various places on the 720 truck, there are a lot of them on the chassis/frame holding wiring and hard lines, you could mount them on the bottom side of the 521 inner fender bolts where the nut goes on tucked back in there where you could not even see them. That's basically the next step.... eventually,, .... for now I just didn't wanna see all the colored wires... I once had delusions of a tucked engine bay till I started installing things.. like I said didn't go as planned.... Before I felt like all I noticed was the ugly wires every time I opened the hood... At least now I can look in the engine bay and i like what I see.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2018 (edited) Got some jets in today.... I got a little of everything.... 2 different idle jets, pump jets, mains and air correctors, and a different emulsion tube.... As much as I wanted to throw everything in and see what I got that wont help me understand anything.... Luckily rejecting a dcoe is extremely simple, open the cover on top and remove the emulsion tube assembly... I've been running a bit rich around 12 on my air/fuel gauge so I started by changing my 155 main to a 145.... at wot I'm around 10.... after a test ride I'll swap the air corrector from a 180 to a 190 and see what that does.... Unfortunately no time for a test ride, I'll probably keep the jets in the truck just in case and change things on the fly... Edited September 17, 2018 by Crashtd420 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2018 Well I'm heading in the right direction.... cruising to work this morning the air/fuel was around 13.... at wot it dropped to 11.... I'm gonna see what change the air corrector does on my ride home..... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 19, 2018 Report Share Posted September 19, 2018 Indeed! Cruise can be high 14s as this is closest to perfect for mileage. Under load it should be less... say 13. If high performance is needed lower slightly but this won't help mileage at all. You would need a dyno to see if there were any gains. This is fun dialing in your mixture. On my Hitachi I went to a larger primary jet and the mileage increased. Must have been too lean to begin with? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2018 Im hoping to end up in the mid 13,s... I haven't even thought about mileage, just driving it like I usually do and trying to note the difference with each change... right now I am just using my butt dyno and my air/fuel gauge.... I hoping to run it on a real dyno again once I'm done.... there is a local shop that will let me use their dyno but can not help me any more than that .... In the end I'm hoping to pick up around 10hp, between timing and jetting changes getting me to a whopping 100hp at the wheels... During the break in of the motor I was at 90hp to the wheels. I was running extremely rich due to to much fuel pressure and and I think only at 10 on the timing.. . I have read generally a stock L16 puts about 70hp to the rear wheels... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2018 I was able to change the air correctors in about 1 minute during lunch..... I'll probably swap the idle jets when I get home since the motor will be warm and I'll probably have to reset the air/fuel screw.... 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted September 19, 2018 Report Share Posted September 19, 2018 (edited) What do the inlets on the inside of the air filter look like? Do you have stub stacks on them, or just the filter housing? ITG makes a nice filter setup for the DCOE with enough room inside for a large pair of stub stacks. I'm not sure if your head is flowing enough to make it worthwhile though. Edited September 19, 2018 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2018 It does have velocity stacks.... not sure if they would be considered stubby or not..... As far as how well the head flows your guess is as good as mine, I wanted to have it professionally ported and polished but didn't have the funds for that, yet... I am using a w53 head, should at least flow better than the stock 210 head... how much better dont know.... 210 head had 28.5 intake runner, 38mm intake valve and 33mm exhaust valve vs The W53 head has a 32mm runner, same as my intake and 42mm intake valve and 35 exhaust valve..... 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted September 19, 2018 Report Share Posted September 19, 2018 Nice. That thing looks fuckin awesome. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2018 38 minutes ago, mainer311 said: Nice. That thing looks fuckin awesome. Thanks..... so far I like the setup.... now if I can get the tune dialed in I'll be really happy.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 19, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2018 Well the air corrector helped a bit with the wot.... At about 3800 rpm doing 65 air/fuel was 13-13.5... if I went wot from there now it only dropped into the 12s.... stayed pretty consistent up to up 80mph when I let off... no idea the rpm but it was still pulling.... So I could probably go up one more on the air corrector and leave the main where it is..... So for tomorrow I changed the idle jet from a 55f9 to a 65f9, and made adjustments to the air fuel screw... currently 2 turns out.. I also bough 55f6 idle jets which has smaller air bleed holes so they are a little richer than the 55f9.. I'll swap those in after work and see how those work ... its quick to do and with a warm motor I can easily adjust the air fuel screw after.... I use my ride to and from work as my test runs.. I'll probably swap the emulsion tubes at work tomorrow for the ride home.... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 20, 2018 Report Share Posted September 20, 2018 10 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: In the end I'm hoping to pick up around 10hp, between timing and jetting changes getting me to a whopping 100hp at the wheels... During the break in of the motor I was at 90hp to the wheels. I was running extremely rich due to to much fuel pressure and and I think only at 10 on the timing.. . I have read generally a stock L16 puts about 70hp to the rear wheels... On a good day around 73 hp. Getting 90 to the wheels is quite good. The trouble is it takes more and more to get less and less now. 7 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: It does have velocity stacks.... not sure if they would be considered stubby or not..... As far as how well the head flows your guess is as good as mine, I wanted to have it professionally ported and polished but didn't have the funds for that, yet... I am using a w53 head, should at least flow better than the stock 210 head... how much better dont know.... 210 head had 28.5 intake runner, 38mm intake valve and 33mm exhaust valve vs The W53 head has a 32mm runner, same as my intake and 42mm intake valve and 35 exhaust valve..... The W53 is a closed chamber head??? This head has a larger combustion chamber that the 210 head and will drop your compression to 8.21 from 8.58. If you ever have the head off, have it trimmed about 0.20 " and this will bring it close to stock. What cam? I must have missed this? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2018 54 minutes ago, datzenmike said: The W53 is a closed chamber head??? This head has a larger combustion chamber that the 210 head and will drop your compression to 8.21 from 8.58. If you ever have the head off, have it trimmed about 0.20 " and this will bring it close to stock. What cam? I must have missed this? If the bottom end was stock that would be true but I put domed pistons in it which puts my compression at 10.8-1..... And yes I do have a cam, it has a 260/270 grind to it.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 20, 2018 Report Share Posted September 20, 2018 I run the U67 head which is a square port. I have had good drive ability with this head and a 32/36 Weber DGEV. I am not running anything in the engine except 40 over flat top pistons. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2018 Well the ride into work sucked.... I'm glad I've been changing 1 jet set at a time, today proved informative..... So last night I richened the idle jet from a 55f9 to a 65f9 and leaned out the air fuel screw, but didn't have a time for a test ride..... idle was good in the 13s but just off idle became too rich around 10-10.5 on the gauge..... What I found wierd was how it affected the the entire range once off idle even into wide open... The only good thing was the lean spike/stumble just off idle didn't happen... I still have a 55f6 I wanna try to but I think I'll mess with that a little closer to home and on a shorter drive.... I think I was almost fouling a plug on the way into work this morning.... For the ride home I'm putting the 55f9 back in and I'm gonna change the emulsion tube and see what that does.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2018 Well I have the orginal idle jets ready to go back in and the new f8 emulsion tube with the new mains and air correctors for the ride home.... just need to drop in the carburator before I try to leave work.. Difference between the tubes... F11 on the left f8 on the right... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2018 Well that was an interesting result from the emulsion tube.... Basically it balanced the part throttle to wot but it richened up the whole top end.... so cruising and wot where both around 12 now.... For now I put the old f11 emulsion tube back in..... So there is definitely a juggling act between the idle, main, emulsion tube and air corrector.... My current thought is to lean out the main jet more, maybe a 135 or 130 and use the f8 tube with the 190 air corrector.... I still wanna see what the pump jet and the other idle jet does before I order anything more.... At least I feel like I'm getting good information from these tests.... just wish I didn't cost to figure out what jets i actually need.. 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted September 20, 2018 Report Share Posted September 20, 2018 What are you using for AFR monitoring? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 20, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2018 It's a wideband o2 sensor and air fuel gauge from innovative motorsport..... 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 21, 2018 Report Share Posted September 21, 2018 What is the fuel pressure feeding into your Weber? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted September 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2018 5 hours ago, Charlie69 said: What is the fuel pressure feeding into your Weber? Its currently set to 3psi.... under full throttle it drops to 2psi..... Plenty of volume too.... I have 3/8 lines running from the tank to the carb, even the pickup tube inside the tank was increased to a 3/8 tube from the stock 1/4 lines... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted September 21, 2018 Report Share Posted September 21, 2018 It's hard to get good readings unless actually driving it under continuous loads. Only idle mix would be accurate. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted September 21, 2018 Report Share Posted September 21, 2018 I would increase your fuel pressure to 3.5 PSI and see if your full throttle pressure increases. Like Mike said what is your fuel pressure at a steady 65 mph? Your fuel pressure at WOT is not a good way to adjust fuel pressure because WOT fuel pressure is only important if you are racing the vehicle. If this is a daily driver then make sure you have at least 2.5 to 3 psi at cruising speed. Quote Link to comment
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