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A 521 in Massachusetts


Crashtd420

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I have that same grind Cam(new)

Believe me get duals otherwise your not going to be impressed

 

 

like to see how that distributor mounts and get the plate right to time it.

 

 

you must be rich. to build a L16 when a L20 with L18 flattops and a closed chamber head get close to super high comp also.

 

But I like people spending money on L motors!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I agree with hainz, its awesome to see someone go all out on a L series. I like them so much I put an L series in my 84 720 that came with the Z series. Didn't spend nearly as much when building it, but its a 2.2 and it gets it sooo much more than the 2.4 Z series did.

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Not not rich.. things got out of hand and i wasn't willing to turn back it really wasn't my intention to build the motor this way. Damn matching numbers..

and the dizzy is great they supply a custom plate to hold it down I believe you put it in like any other dizzy. number one cylinder to top dead, rotor points what ever way it ahould then you rotate the dizzy till some indicator light comes on and lock it down.... the software takes over after that...

And I hope I don't need the duals but I may have to... the one I got came right from weber overseas.. they preset it to my engine specs so I am hopefull that one will do..

thanks for the comments and encouragement.

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I wish I had known about the pistons before you put it together. I could have guided you through modifying the domes.

 

The beauty of pop ups, is that they are easy to modify without too much worry of creating too thin a dome. There's a lot of meat there to play with. I've cut them on lathes, on mills, cut flat surfaces in the tops, cut rings around the back of the dome for head clearance, etc. Sometimes it's easier to modify the piston than it is to modify the head.

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I can definitely agree with that statement. I already had everything balanced before I realized my situation so I didn't wanna mess with it... the head wasn't bad just took me a long time because I was being extremely careful... all good ... I was happy with the results... I am 100% sure clearance will not be a problem now.... I do work in a machine shop so I have an understanding of tolerances and clearance. But what I work on weight upwards of 3000 to 5000 pounds and I hold .001 tolerances.... but engines are completely different from what I do. I was definitely outside my comfort zone...

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So stoffregen now that you got i my head a bit what's your biggest concern about the engine build? Or is this just a hindsight thing... I knew I should have joined here sooner... definitely a solid group of people here keeping Datsun alive...

No major concern. Just would have been a lot less work to massage the pistons.

 

Also, bringing the weight of the piston down would have been beneficial, and they're pretty easy to re-balance once you do.

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So I can't seem to find a clear answer about torquing the upper link screw bushings...

20161016_112406_zpss58msqly_edit_1479773

I mocked everything up and was gonna torque everything once I went to set the ride high... didn't realize it needs 175ft.lbs . Can i torque it now or was i suppose to torque it in a vise first before before it's installed on the frame?

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That's what I was thinking.... one thing I read was if lowering to loosen and torque at ride height.... but that was only said about that bushing above the kingpin... but I figured it was a good idea to tighten everything at ride height.... I guess my biggest concern is putting stress on the two bolts that hold the upper link spindle to the frame...

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You could most certainly torque those frame mounting bolts before you finish the assembly. They are designed to be adjustable though so hopefully you have the same amount of shims going back in as you took out. If you're making ride height changes, you're going to need to adjust the shims anyway.

 

Stress? Think of what kind of abuse they see during normal operation. What you do with the torque wrench is of no consequence.

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So I just wanna clarify. Yes I plan on torquing the bolts to the frame first. The stress I was concerned about would be to those bolts while I am tightening the screw bushings. But what you said should remain true the about the stress it's under while driving.

And I do not have the shims in yet I am adjusting the ride height... I did a 2" block in the rear so I have to set the front which is what I am up to now. I will deal with the alignment next... thanks

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So I think I figured out why the books say to torque in a vice.. with out the cab on there's plenty of room but with the cab there is not.... inner fender well prevents access so I have to torque it from the engine bay.... since the only thing in my engine bay is the engine I have the room but if it was a complete truck I question the ability to get a wrench where you need to...

20161122_165625_zps8t7v1jdd.jpg

Driver side... now look at your own 521 and see if you could get to the screw bushings... so to me it makes sense now.

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Hey Crashtd420

 

What is the thread on those grease fittings on the bushing caps?...All I have on Jerry Hicks looks like just a hex head screw cap...didn't even know that it was grease-able part....

 

MikeC

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Ya that's definitely something you wanna grease.... the lower fulcrum pin screw bushings had them too.... I will verify what fits when I get home... if I remember right the book says to remove plug install grease fitting grease then reinstall plug but all I ever had in mine were grease fittings....

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