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A 521 in Massachusetts


Crashtd420

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Hey Crashtd420

 

Do I see disc brakes on the front of your ride??? What did you use for parts for this conversion?....my Jerry Hicks truck is still sporting stock drums front and rear...

 

mikeC

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Thanks for the input. Ya i was planing on the 1". So i take it bigger is not always better. And just to make sure i am doing disc up front and keeping drums in the rear. what year 510 were you thinking? I just looked and beebani's kit says any 280z. a 75 looks correct and has a 7/8 bore and are easily available at auto parts stores... and about half the price of willwood.. should I still run the proportioning valve.....

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The smaller the master, the more leverage you have which means more pedal feel. This can work against you though if the master bore is too small, you will bottom the pedal on the floor before the brakes lock up.

 

I would try the 510 master first. A 280Z master was designed to be used with a power brake booster while the 510's had manual brakes. A lot of people prefer the firmer pedal in a go-fast car, but in the truck, I think you'd probably be happier with the smaller bore.

 

Any 68-73 510 master should work. You may have to grind out the hole in the firewall a 1/16" or so, but no big deal, right?

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So right now I am preparing to mount the cab back on the frame, should have pics after this weekend... for now i figured I'd post my motor build next... and before I do let me say this, yes I built my l16 and yes it cost more than a motor swap and probably will still only be around 100hp ( hoping I make a little more but won't know till she hits the dyno.) The reason i build my l16 is because i like having all matching numbers and no body really builds them for more power. So please be nice because for me there is no going backwards from here...

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Are you actually going to run those pistons in a street driven vehicle? Have you done any engine math to figure out the compression ratio?

 

I would also massage the tops of the pistons to A- make sure they fit in the combustion chamber, and B- to knock off the sharp edges which inhibit flow and can cause detonation.

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Oh ya.. trust me i scratched my head for a couple days about what to do.. don't worry the story gets worse with my head choice.... a got a w53 head with the peanut chamber. Even more compression.. I was getting to this part..... when I was putting all the pieces and parts together I calculated the Pistons as dished. I had the + and - wrong on the calculator. I thought i would be around 9.5 to 1... well that wasnt the case. It was more like 11 to 1. at this point I decided to say f@#% it and build what i bought. I got the compression ration down to 10.7 to 1. Oops... Anyhow ya I did chamfered everything and I had to open the combustion chamber of the head to let the piston cycle properly... very tedious... I also had to space and index the spark plugs to clear... I layed back the plug area too... and I was able to measure my cc's to within .01 of a ml of each other... did that through weights and math. 1cc= 1ml = 1 gram.... I did all that with no head gasket on to guarantee I had at least the .059 of the head gasket for clearance.

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So here comes the cherry on top.... I am sure you wondering about a distributor. I know I am gonna be on the border of running 93 octane... the Pistons are actually designed to prevent detonation but I believe timing is going to be the key.... so I opened my wallet for this one..

20161115_165904_zpsrgqa144t.jpg

 

20161115_165928_zpsdn1arzha.jpg

 

This is tuned via Bluetooth. .. complete control of the advance curve and I don't have to worry about not having a vacuum advance with the side draft weber.

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