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A 521 in Massachusetts


Crashtd420

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

You could make a pair of those from a short section of 2"(?) square tubing. Drill the holes, cut off the extra material and weld them in place. I wouldn't hesitate to replace them.

I think I have a big piece of angle iron that might do the trick....

I'll have to do some measuring...

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2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

You could make a pair of those from a short section of 2"(?) square tubing. Drill the holes, cut off the extra material and weld them in place. I wouldn't hesitate to replace them.


quoting cuz that’s ^^^^ the easiest answer . You would be amazed at how easy you could make that out of sheet metal also . 
If you don’t now own a 4 1/2 inch grinder with a cutoff wheel ,, buy one and you will never look back . 

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29 minutes ago, bananahamuck said:


quoting cuz that’s ^^^^ the easiest answer . You would be amazed at how easy you could make that out of sheet metal also . 
If you don’t now own a 4 1/2 inch grinder with a cutoff wheel ,, buy one and you will never look back . 

Until you buy a portaband and leave the grinder in the black grinding dust

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I do have both a Milwaukee porta bandsaw and good sized industrial metal bandsaw for 20+ years. And your are right ,, Both work way better at straight or normal angled cuts on straight stock .. but Neither can cut double angles on very small or oddly shaped metal pieces without some serious trigonometry type vice settings ,, that take forever . 
   Grinder ,, takes longer to remember where I used it last . 

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32 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Grinders - I use a 4.5" but with the guard removed and a 6" or 7" wheel for cutting sheet metal. Portaband is a life changer, but limited too. They all have uses.

Have you used any of the carbide toothed metal cutting saws?

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You mean like a cold saw on a workbench? Or like a wheel you install in your circular saw? Cold saws are great, but expensive. Similar saws with slow speed are ok, but wear out blades ad replacements are like $100. Circular saws with carbide blades are good for cutting metal siding, and that's about as far as I'm willing to go. They're freaking dangerous.

 

I should also mention that when I use a cutoff wheel on sheetmetal, it's usually a precision cut, and I'm cutting right up against a scribed line. You can get pretty accurate cuts with the right cutoff wheel.

 

Edited by Stoffregen Motorsports
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32 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

You mean like a cold saw on a workbench? Or like a wheel you install in your circular saw? Cold saws are great, but expensive. Similar saws with slow speed are ok, but wear out blades ad replacements are like $100. Circular saws with carbide blades are good for cutting metal siding, and that's about as far as I'm willing to go. They're freaking dangerous.

 

I should also mention that when I use a cutoff wheel on sheetmetal, it's usually a precision cut, and I'm cutting right up against a scribed line. You can get pretty accurate cuts with the right cutoff wheel.

 

I was mainly referring to the skilsaw style ones, but usually with a smaller blade - I think Eastwood has one.  I've cut a lot of aluminum and brass with standard woodworking tools, but that's a lot different than cutting steel. I'm not really sold on the metal cutting skilsaw blades...not really the correct RPM to be doing that, and lack of rigidity with everything.

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16 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

Well I managed to loose my gas cap this afternoon....

I'm pretty sure it was there when I left the house... I only noticed it missing the second place I stopped..

Luckily i had one that fit in the garage... crisis averted. ...


I still got they one you sent me if you want me to send it back. 

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1 hour ago, d.p said:


I still got they one you sent me if you want me to send it back. 

Thanks but wont work... I modified mine to use a modern cap....

You can send those gears my way when you want them out of the way... seems like your happy with your new gear ratio...

Edited by Crashtd420
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43 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

Thanks but wont work... I modified mine to use a modern cap....

You can send those gears my way when you want them out of the way... seems like your happy with your new gear ratio...

 

Word, I will send them your way if you cover shipping.  From Wayno to me it was $90 so I imagine a lot cheaper from me to you.  I am also happy with the 3.70 but feel something higher may still be the sweet spot.  I say that because the stock gears rev'd quickly but seemed to run out of steam and with the 3.70s it takes more to rev it out and doesn't seem to run out really.  With the stock 521 gears it more of an instant acceleration vs the somewhat delayed with the 3.70s.   

 

So maybe something in between those two would be better.  3.90 or something even a little higher. 

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31 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

Word, I will send them your way if you cover shipping.  From Wayno to me it was $90 so I imagine a lot cheaper from me to you.  I am also happy with the 3.70 but feel something higher may still be the sweet spot.  I say that because the stock gears rev'd quickly but seemed to run out of steam and with the 3.70s it takes more to rev it out and doesn't seem to run out really.  With the stock 521 gears it more of an instant acceleration vs the somewhat delayed with the 3.70s.   

 

So maybe something in between those two would be better.  3.90 or something even a little higher. 

I'll be in touch about that soon.... 

 

 

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18 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

Well this was an oops moment....

The plastic tee handle to my parking brake decided to give way....

Not sure if I wanna replace it, try to fix it, or try to just do a floor mounted handle .... 

20220313_163125.jpg

All of my Chevy trucks have had the same problem, and I fix it by cutting off the old plastic and welding on a piece of 3/8" round stainless stock with a hole drilled through the middle (plug weld). I've even machined the face for a stock-ish flat faced appearance.

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58 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

All of my Chevy trucks have had the same problem, and I fix it by cutting off the old plastic and welding on a piece of 3/8" round stainless stock with a hole drilled through the middle (plug weld). I've even machined the face for a stock-ish flat faced appearance.

 

I'll keep that in mind, I have an aluminum tee handle shift knob I was thinking about using if possible but obviously cant weld the 2 together but I have an idea in mind to make it work... if not I may just use your idea....

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3 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Hurst parking brake handle...Now that would be different.

Kind of .... unfortunately I was smart enough to package it up with my 4 speed transmission... I have that all bundled up with the proper transmission mount and extra bolts so in case I need to pull the 5spd again I have the 4spd that can bolt in really quickly... 

So it's in my best interest not to try to steal it because the whole shifter is pieced together to suit the 4spd...

So I guess I'll be trying what you had said... already found a piece of round steal I could make it out of...

First I need to get the driveshaft reinstalled and then disconnect the brake cables so I can remove the handle assembly....

 

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