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A 521 in Massachusetts


Crashtd420

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42 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

Man it could go either way with how you worded it but I agree with Mike.  Reads like a suicide note.  

 

lol

 

Ya It did.... I was wondering where he quoted me from because I was confused till I remembered what we were talking about.... 

Oh well good for a laugh....

 

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I think I figured out a solution to my sensor and spray bar feed configuration...

This is the current plan...

 

Hole in block will be used for visual aftermarket pressure gauge..

 

1 port on the remote filter for the dash light/ fuel cutoff sensor..

 

Last is the spray bar feed...

Which would have to go into the remote filter block but would be feed oil before filtering....

Solution to that is a small turbo feed line filter that has -3an fitting..

I can use the small -3an line I have to connect one side and just need a line to connect it back to the valve cover....

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Electric fuel pump? During start use the start signal to the starter solenoid to power the pump around the shut off sensor on the oil pressure. Once started the low oil pressure governs again.

 

The 720 has a fuel pump relay and it looks like the one on the S110 200sx that has EFI and probably the zx and the S12. It has ignition, accessory, start signal, oil pressure sender and charge from the alternator. It also has a delay just like the interior light delay after closing the doors. Turn ignition on and the pump starts but if after a delay (don't know the amount maybe 10 seconds) if car not started it times out and pump shuts off. If you try to start, the starter signal holds the fuel pump on and probably resets the delay when you let off the key. Assuming the engine starts, the alternator charging (a good indicator the engine is turning) keeps the pump on so the timer can't begin counting down. The oil pressure sender is eventually off or not grounded so this is also used. Or a combination of the two? I think you can still drive with the alternator not charging but it will shut the pump off if the oil pressure drops below the sensor setting of about 8 PSI. The manual is not very clear on this on their block diagram. If oil pressure fails the 10? second timer counts down on the relay and the pump stops. If placed in accessory position, the pump is immediately turned off. Like I said the description of operation is non existent but there is a diagram.  The early Z22 and L20B just wired the pump on in the ignition ON position. Not a good idea to be pumping fuel after an accident. 

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Electric fuel pump? During start use the start signal to the starter solenoid to power the pump around the shut off sensor on the oil pressure. Once started the low oil pressure governs again.

 

Not a good idea to be pumping fuel after an accident. 

 

Yes it's an electric pump and it's as simple as you said.....

I do trigger relays with it so it's all low amperage,  relays do the heavy work.. .

 

I did this because your right you dont want the fuel flowing if in an accident.. 

Been like this and working good for almost 4 years now...

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On 1/11/2022 at 9:32 AM, Crashtd420 said:

I have a switch to over ride if necessary....

Also it has a start trigger input....

So it will send power to the pump while cranking and then the pressure keeps it on...

I think you're over complicating things.

 

If you like gadgets, go for it, but I like to keep things simple.

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I think you're over complicating things.

 

If you like gadgets, go for it, but I like to keep things simple.

 

Have you been reading the same thread I have?  Crash loves to go over the top with his shit.  

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2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I think you're over complicating things.

 

If you like gadgets, go for it, but I like to keep things simple.

It wasnt anything to complex ....

Been working perfectly for 4 years...

Only reason I'm messing with any of this is because I had 3 different things hanging off the stock sending unit hole.... trying to clean that all up... 

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Remember what I said earlier about having a tee mounted on the fender or firewall. That helps clean up that mess. I thought you had a setup like that already.

 

My race car is getting three gauges (tach, oil psi and water temp) and three switches (ignition, fuel pump and start button). My daily driver has actual knobs to control the temp and AC settings, plus a floor shift transfer case. I work really hard to simplify things and keep them simple going forward.

 

But yeah, I have noticed you like lots of doo-hickeys.

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24 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Remember what I said earlier about having a tee mounted on the fender or firewall. That helps clean up that mess. I thought you had a setup like that already.

 

I think dp is who your thinking of....

I have been meaning to fix that for a while, I also wanted the remote filter for the correct oil filter.... 

I currently run a short one to clear my motor mounts....

Mine are modified to use the 720 motor mounts....

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1 minute ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

That's nice too. Very compact.

Its working out, I was able to mount it up next to the transmission where the torsion bar use to be.... 

It's high enough so the frame and transmission protects it....

Only other thing I might do is get a shorter one piece fitting for the feed line currently just reused things I had.... 

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18 hours ago, d.p said:

Where is @mainer311to comment on how much weight your adding with all those fittings. 

 

 

Come on I'm actually eliminating fittings,  and I'm even stepping up an using all -an fittings.... no hose clamps....

I'd love to eventually clean everything up with -an fittings and eliminate the hose clamps as much as possible....

 

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In a recent article about a hotrod build, the builder pointed out that not one zip tie was used in the entire build. No, he didn't replace zip ties with shiny billet or other expensive fasteners that stand out. He simply built the car as clean and simple as he could.

 

I now strive for that - no zip ties. It's nearly impossible.

 

No hose clamps? That's another one to strive for. It will be expensive though.

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46 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

 

I now strive for that - no zip ties. It's nearly impossible.

 

No hose clamps? That's another one to strive for. It will be expensive though.

It wouldn't be no hose clamps completely, like the radiator and heater hoses they will stay but I'd like to replace them with better quality clamps...

 

I guess I was thinking mostly the fuel lines under the hood is where I would like to cleanup and simply with the -an fittings.....

 

I dont think I could ever go without zip ties...

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