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A 521 in Massachusetts


Crashtd420

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2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Why can't the shop bend the whole thing?

 

On the flanges - they can warp with welding. To help avoid leaks, I try to buy the ones without the mating step in them. I like the ones with a straight through bore which allows me to stick one piece of tubing out a half an inch and the other mating piece stuck in half an inch. This gives a slip fit much, much longer than the stepped flanges and in a pinch, can be sealed up with high temp RTV.

In the end everything turned out good with the exhaust.... the big mistake was I didnt have the header bolted down proper... Without the vband clamp on you could see the mismatch and as I said earlier after I cut the pipe in half and tightened the clamps there was almost an 1/8 gap between the tubes and it was wider at the top.... I figure that was part of the learning curve....

 

As far as the shop helping me bend it they are more than willing to help... The problem is they could only do 3 out of the 4 neccessary bends...The 4th bend needs to close the gap and complete the shape.... 

This Is why I built what I built because it could accomplish the last bend, unfortunately I chose the wrong gauge metal... I tried to call them back today but they closed early. I was going to see what they would charge me to get me 90% there..... 

I could be wrong but I'm hoping if I reinforce my bending rig and they start the final bend I might be able to atleast close the gap... I could even do that releaf cut down the inside edge, atleast then it would only be one edge.....

I'll see what they say Monday and go from there.....

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2 hours ago, demo243 said:

Relief score might help.

 

was looking at your rig too- is it the top piece of angle iron that is flexing?

 

maybe reinforce it with a square tube?

It's a little of everything... but yes the center is flexing mostly...

I was thinking about doing just like you said, reinforce the top clamp and also the part that actually makes the bend... the hinge is probably the next weakest link.... I might have to remove the pins and weld the edge that holds the pins so the metal doesnt try to unroll....

I'd really like to make all this work and not have to spend any more money.... 

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I think a regular finger brake could bend it. Maybe not a press brake, but a standard brake could get most of the way around and then fudge the last bend. The work piece would be forcing its way into the bender, but it will flex.

 

Like Spicoli said - I can fix it.

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Well it got stronger and a lot uglier... the weakest part was at the hinge and I was able weld up an edge that was bending on the inside and tacked the edges that wraps around the pin....

I know it's enough to finish 2 bends but not sure how capable it will be to do it 8 times. Trying to hold off to Monday and talk to the metal shop  before I attempt anything more...

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So they said $40 to bend them up...

Not great but not horrible,  so I'm having them get me as close as possible and I'll close up the last bend myself and weld it up...

 

I cut the angles off the 2nd piece tonight so I can drop them off tomorrow....

 

I also contacted a local sandblaster who does mobile dustless blasting to get a quote to strip the datsun bed... not sure when that's possible due to the cold weather but I'm trying get that done as soon as possible...

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In my experience, having it blasted by a shop is less expensive than having them come to your house, and there's less mess. Though transporting your bed to a shop may be a problem...

 

BTW - I had to bend a 52" angle in 18ga steel last night. Since my largest brake is 48.5", I had to do it by hand. I clamped the piece between two pieces of angle and then clamped that to the table and beat it down with hard rubber mallets. Came out perfectly.

 

I enjoy watching your progress Neil. You remind me a lot of me as I was learning the trade. Open to suggestions but with an I'll figure it out attitude.

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18 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

In my experience, having it blasted by a shop is less expensive than having them come to your house, and there's less mess. Though transporting your bed to a shop may be a problem...

 

BTW - I had to bend a 52" angle in 18ga steel last night. Since my largest brake is 48.5", I had to do it by hand. I clamped the piece between two pieces of angle and then clamped that to the table and beat it down with hard rubber mallets. Came out perfectly.

 

I enjoy watching your progress Neil. You remind me a lot of me as I was learning the trade. Open to suggestions but with an I'll figure it out attitude.

 

Oddly enough the bed is actually ready and waiting on a trailer...

So I can bring it somewhere if needed.

There is one guy doing the mobile blasting only a town or 2 over, I was hoping to ask my boss to let them do it out back of the shop, it's all dirt anyway....

There is a shop I could take It too, they did some blasting for me once before.... but getting there to drop it off and pick it up is tricky because their hours and me having to work...

I just really want the bed back on for this coming year....

 

And thanks for the compliment, I figure half the enjoyment is figuring a way to do something yourself...

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2 other projects I started was ...

 

1st I added some hood adjusters to keep the front of the hood from dancing side to side while on the freeway.... apparently I didnt take a picture....

 

2nd I got started on the oil filter relocation.... mount to the block is nice and secure with plenty of threads engaged.... 

Filter is going under the truck next to the transmission on a bracket I'm making....

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So i have a question about the oil flow... 

I believe on the block, on a stock setup the oil flows into the outer portion of the filter then back out the middle into the block....

 

The reason I ask is because I'm wondering where to put my 2 sensors and an oil spray bar feed with the remote setup.

2 sensors are for an aftermarket gauge and dash light indicator/fuel pump cutoff. 

 

If I set the remote filter up like the factory the 2 ports on the side are before the filter....  

I would assume I would want the pressure reading after the filter.   

3rd location is the block which is where i planned to connect the spray bar.. 

 

Would it matter if I reversed the flow at the remote filter so the sensors are after the filtration? 

 

Also would there be any benefit to connecting the spray bar to the filter block and putting a sensor in the block?

 

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Beware of low oil pressure cutoff. How will you start the engine without fuel pressure?

I have a switch to over ride if necessary....

Also it has a start trigger input....

So it will send power to the pump while cranking and then the pressure keeps it on...

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