A 521 in Massachusetts

[Crashtd420]

17 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

I could use 4 of these and willing to pay for them sir.

I'll hit you up about them with a private message.... 

Looks like I might have to buy some metal and make more for anyone else...

With that said any one else interested please send a private message to me.... then I can keep track of who needs them....

[Crashtd420]

I have been using those door things as something to do when I have a little time with nothing to do and dont want to disturb the trucks daily driving ability with a project....

 

I have also been trying to chisle some of the bond off the bed floor in preparation for getting it sandblasted......

The bed is currently on a trailer and I'm hoping to bring it to work and have them blast it in the corner of the lot, which is dirt, instead making a mess at my house....

 

Problem there is I needed to replace my hitch on my nissan and in the process 3 bolts wouldnt come out and i ended up rounded off so I had to cut the heads off to remove the old hitch....

Now I still need to get them out to install the new hitch....

I tried welding a nut over the remaining stud but ran out of shielding gas and It welded like shit, so that attempt didnt work out... 

I'll get some gas and try again, if not I'll be resorting to a drill and easy-out or just a drill if that fails.....

 

Anyhow pics of the bed...

There are pin holes everywhere but nothing horrible,  I still dont understand why the bondo was in there like it was..... 

 

[Crashtd420]

Look at this chunk....

[Charlie69]

That is a lot of bondo!!!

[Crashtd420]

20 minutes ago, Charlie69 said:

That is a lot of bondo!!!

I hate that stuff....

I'd rather have dents them bondo...

I swear in the bed they were using it like glue to hold an old plastic bedliner from some other truck in place....

I dont really care about the holes, I'll rust proof the whole thing and I'd like to do some sort a wood insert...

[datzenmike]

 

Nissan calls then the door hinge 'spring check'

[mainer311]

I’m not sure how much you’re fighting getting that stuff out of the bed, but I’ve heard of a cool trick where you can dump dry ice into floor pans, and it allows you scrape off old sound deadener material.

[Tank.]

29 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

I’m not sure how much you’re fighting getting that stuff out of the bed, but I’ve heard of a cool trick where you can dump dry ice into floor pans, and it allows you scrape off old sound deadener material.

It works, I used this technique in my Z removing the tar based sound deadener.

[Crashtd420]

1 hour ago, mainer311 said:

I’m not sure how much you’re fighting getting that stuff out of the bed, but I’ve heard of a cool trick where you can dump dry ice into floor pans, and it allows you scrape off old sound deadener material.

It's coming out easy, it more annoying because of the inconsistent way it was thrown down.... it wasnt like there was any prep work done under it..... 

Edited August 8, 2021 by Crashtd420

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Needle scaler.  $50 on Amazon.

[mainer311]

2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Needle scaler.  $50 on Amazon.

I have never heard of one of these. Pretty cool.

[Charlie69]

Used needle scalers in the floation tanks to remove scale when I was a mill mechanic at Bagdad open pit copper mine.

 

[Crashtd420]

11 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Needle scaler.  $50 on Amazon.

Good idea, I can probably borrow one from work and try it....

[jagman]

A needle scaler will go through thin metal in a heart beat so be very careful.  I only use mine on structural steel. I'd rather use a coarse flap sanding wheel on the body panels, moving constantly to prevent heat distortion.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

If the needles are sharp, yes they can go through thin sheetmetal. But, you can avoid this by using the scaler gently, and hold it at different angles to achieve different results. Also, as the needles wear, the tips round off and become less sharp.

 

The Datsun bed floor is not thin metal. It's quite thick. Rusty metal, yes you have to worry about poking through, but if it pokes through rusty metal, then you should probably replace that metal anyway.

 

I use my needle scaler on sheetmetal all the time.

[Crashtd420]

And on to the next new issue.... 

While checking what altenator belt I'm using for another member I noticed it was getting wet with oil under the timing cover... looks like the front crank seal is leaking....

I really dont feel like doing that... I cant remember but I really hope that seal can be done without removing the cover..... 

[datzenmike]

If running synthetic switch back to dinosaur oil. Leak goes away in a month or so.

 

Yes you can change without taking the timing cover off. Remove the 27mm crank bolt, (100-120 ft lbs) set to either TDC and tap back side of pulley forward with the socket. Have a care as there is a woodruf key that locks the pulley to the crank, you don't want to loose. It'll be on top of crankshaft if at TDC. Pry old seal out with suitable screw driver. Fill cavity in seal and the lips with grease and tap in place to get started then cover with a large enough socket or short length of pipe and pound in evenly.

 

[Crashtd420]

32 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

If running synthetic switch back to dinosaur oil. Leak goes away in a month or so.

 

Yes you can change without taking the timing cover off. Remove the 27mm crank bolt, (100-120 ft lbs) set to either TDC and tap back side of pulley forward with the socket. Have a care as there is a woodruf key that locks the pulley to the crank, you don't want to loose. It'll be on top of crankshaft if at TDC. Pry old seal out with suitable screw driver. Fill cavity in seal and the lips with grease and tap in place to get started then cover with a large enough socket or short length of pipe and pound in evenly.

 

I'll do the seal first before I switch from synthetic.... I dont think I used a factory nissan seal the first time...

I found the correct part number and i plan on stopping by the dealer to order it up.....

Thanks for confirming I dont have to pull the cover, I really didnt wanna go through all that......

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You could always rig up a PCV system to help pull a vacuum though the crankcase. Helps with minor oil leaks.

[datzenmike]

I always wonder if it actually does. The basically open vent hose on the valve cover is huge compared to the tiny orifice on the PCV valve. That would be a monster 'vacuum ' leak. Add to that the normal blow by past the rings.

[Crashtd420]

1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

You could always rig up a PCV system to help pull a vacuum though the crankcase. Helps with minor oil leaks.

I did that about 1 1/2 years ago.... i drilled and tapped the manifold and joined them in the center down to a pcv valve.....

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

It doesn't work at all RPMs, but it does help. For that matter, it doesn't even need to be plumbed to vacuum behind the butterflies. It can work just hanging out in the air cleaner area.

 

Older British cars which had no crank seals used the primitive road draft tube, and later an early type of PCV to keep the oil in the motor.

[MikeRL411]

21 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

And on to the next new issue.... 

While checking what altenator belt I'm using for another member I noticed it was getting wet with oil under the timing cover... looks like the front crank seal is leaking....

I really dont feel like doing that... I cant remember but I really hope that seal can be done without removing the cover..... 

 That looks a lot like the "mystery" oil leak I had on my RL411.  Turns out it was due the a small edge of the lifting lug bracket on top of the engine was slipping under the lip of the valve cover.  It was just a hair thicker than the valve cover gagket and allowed a small oil leak down the side of the engine block.  Reorienting the bracket cleared the leak.

[Crashtd420]

3 hours ago, MikeRL411 said:

 That looks a lot like the "mystery" oil leak I had on my RL411.  Turns out it was due the a small edge of the lifting lug bracket on top of the engine was slipping under the lip of the valve cover.  It was just a hair thicker than the valve cover gagket and allowed a small oil leak down the side of the engine block.  Reorienting the bracket cleared the leak.

It seems to be coming from behind the pulley,  i looked and there wasn't any that I could see running down from above... I'm hoping once I remove crank pulley its obvious... but you never know what you'll find once you start taking things apart.

[datzenmike]

Yes it would come from behind the pulley. The pulley pushes into the timing cover seal.

 

 

 

 

4 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

It doesn't work at all RPMs, but it does help. For that matter, it doesn't even need to be plumbed to vacuum behind the butterflies. It can work just hanging out in the air cleaner area.

 

Older British cars which had no crank seals used the primitive road draft tube, and later an early type of PCV to keep the oil in the motor.

 

Again, how can this possibly work with an open 1/2" hose on the valve cover to the air filter housing letting air in at a faster rate that it can be taken out? This would be like trying to draw a vacuum in a room by sucking the air out the keyhole with the window open. While having any vacuum in the crank case as compared to ambient would undoubtedly prevent oil leaking out, how in the wide wide world of sports can the tiny orifice in a PCV valve move that much air? Common sense would say..... it can't.