Ooph! Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 (edited) 9 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: Yes, they are the same..... All my measurements seem to be good.... They might measure the same on the bench but installed may require correction to make it all straight. the method Stoffregen Motorsports explained is the way to go, you should be able to correct any imperfection unless somethings way off. Edited January 3, 2021 by Ooph! 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 8 hours ago, Ooph! said: They might measure the same on the bench but installed may require correction to make it all straight. the method Stoffregen Motorsports explained is the way to go, you should be able to correct any imperfection unless somethings way off. All my measurements have been from the truck at the desired ride height..... It looked worse in the picture then it did to my eye so I'm really hoping it was the camera angle.... I'll clean up the differential flange and reinstall it, then do some extra checks as stroffgren suggested, hes been extremely helpful.. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 Is it possible that the control arm brackets on the axle are not identically placed? Do you have a digital inclonemeter? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 46 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Is it possible that the control arm brackets on the axle are not identically placed? Do you have a digital inclonemeter? Anything is possible..... And I do have a digital inclinometer... I've been using that, a laser level, ruler's and tape measures..... If its wrong it should show somewhere in my measurements, I dont wanna make to big a deal out of it yet..... I will wait to tack the watts link on till I'm sure the rest is good..... Probably not working on it today... Last day of vacation before back to work..... 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 3, 2021 Report Share Posted January 3, 2021 I was asking because you can use the digital gauge to see if the axle side LCA brackets are set at the same angle. Aside from dropping a plumb bob off the LCA bolt holes on the axle, this is the easiest way to check. If the brackets were not clocked the same, I could see the axle not lining up with that crossmember. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2021 2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: I was asking because you can use the digital gauge to see if the axle side LCA brackets are set at the same angle. Aside from dropping a plumb bob off the LCA bolt holes on the axle, this is the easiest way to check. If the brackets were not clocked the same, I could see the axle not lining up with that crossmember. I think I'm good.... Everything is equal and square on the outer arms.... the brackets are parallel and square.... I checked the crossmember to the axle housing , then cleaned the gasket surface and re installed the differential and checked that the flange was square to the crossmember..... At that point I chocked it up to camera angle.... everything seemed good.... So I started working on the watts link.... using a laser level I lined to the 2 grease fittings on the center bar as a reference for the center of watts link ... I took a measurement to the axle flanges and it was off... wtf..... So I checked the centerline of my laser and sure enough it was off.... the bracket at the crossmember was good but the tabs on top of the axle were off.... hell in the picture it looks like a drunk lined it up.... or maybe a stoned machinist..... I also should have put the level on top left to right to make sure it was level... Atleast I know what I did and was able to find it.... So ya I'll have to cut those tabs free, again and maybe bend the tabs slightly at the crossmember to line it up better. I dont want to just pull it into location... 3 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 4, 2021 Report Share Posted January 4, 2021 I always grind a small centerline mark in the axle housing before I get started. The most accurate CL measurement is taken from the axle housing ends, at the flange. The most accurate way to reference your parts and pieces together is with a plumb bob and marks made on the floor. If your frame is not perfectly flat and level in both directions on the jack stands, you will not get accurate measurements. The reason I bring this up is because of your pic above. If you mark it to the floor (I use pieces of tape and a sharpie, or just sharpie on the concrete), are the results different or the same? Also fore/aft axle centerline - this too should be marked on the floor and compared to your front LCA bolt centerline. You get the floor marking concept right? It's a map that doesn't/can't move. For the various measurements, I take them on each side of the frame and use a long 6' level to draw a line the whole width across the floor for each point dropped to the floor. Then measuring from each point to another is as simple as using a tape measure or measuring stick. Am I making sense? 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2021 10 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: I always grind a small centerline mark in the axle housing before I get started. The most accurate CL measurement is taken from the axle housing ends, at the flange. The most accurate way to reference your parts and pieces together is with a plumb bob and marks made on the floor. If your frame is not perfectly flat and level in both directions on the jack stands, you will not get accurate measurements. The reason I bring this up is because of your pic above. If you mark it to the floor (I use pieces of tape and a sharpie, or just sharpie on the concrete), are the results different or the same? Also fore/aft axle centerline - this too should be marked on the floor and compared to your front LCA bolt centerline. You get the floor marking concept right? It's a map that doesn't/can't move. For the various measurements, I take them on each side of the frame and use a long 6' level to draw a line the whole width across the floor for each point dropped to the floor. Then measuring from each point to another is as simple as using a tape measure or measuring stick. Am I making sense? I get what your saying..... Everthing else checked out, and I was using the flange face of the axle to measure the centerline .... It's just that center bar is/ was a bit crooked..... I set the laser line equal between the frame , It obviously moved a little after I got the crossmember mounted.... Where I think I went wrong is I let the center bar just drop and welded it where it landed because it lined up to the laser line.... I failed to verify.... Plus I never made sure the bushing was level..... fail #2..... I have a plan to make sure I do it correctly next time..... Once I correct those 2 things I do believe everthing will be spot on.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 4, 2021 Report Share Posted January 4, 2021 So you found a problem. That's good. Otherwise you'd still be scratching your head. 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 4, 2021 1 minute ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: So you found a problem. That's good. Otherwise you'd still be scratching your head. Ya it was 100% that center bar.... 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 5, 2021 Hopefully this will be the last of the mistakes..... I suppose there aren't to many parts left to align...... Anyhow I got a box from summit racing today..... some of the last parts I'll need... I have bump stop on the way too.... 3 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted January 7, 2021 Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 Ayyyy funny enough, I just got my box of parts as well. What did you go for as bump-stops? Did you get the thrust bearing kit? FYI: directions they came with are all fine and dandy, but this makes it way easier: 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 (edited) 12 hours ago, BrothersGarage said: Ayyyy funny enough, I just got my box of parts as well. What did you go for as bump-stops? Did you get the thrust bearing kit? FYI: directions they came with are all fine and dandy, but this makes it way easier: Bump stops were just some universal 3" tall ones ... I'll post a pic and part number this weekend if they seem like they will work out.... I did not bother with the thrust bearings, I think they are mostly neccessary if you plan to make constant adjustments... like say a track weekend vs daily driving ... I dont plan on making ride height adjustments once they are setup... Edited January 7, 2021 by Crashtd420 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2021 Bored at work, these are the bump stops.... only thing that sucks are the 2 holes in the frame are not centered between the frame rail.... so I'll need to work that out... I have a couple ideas but need to get them next to the frame to see what will work best.... 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2021 So the bump stops are going to work out pretty good..... with minor modifications.. First off the frame is curved and the bump stop is not.... The plate goes through the entire bottom so I was able to make it curve without ruining it.. my method was to use 2 wrenches at the same time to bend it..... The only other thing is the bolts, because the frame is curved the bolts do not thread straight up... so the rubber will need a little clearance if you want to use a socket..... Not clearanced yet just showing the area that would need to be clearanced.... The only other thing would be centering it in under the frame rail.... You can see it hang to the out side about an 1/8 of an inch or so.... My plan is to side slot the mounting tabs and keep it centered..... 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2021 (edited) Also to note I believe daystar sells taller and a shorter versions of this bump stop but has the same base.... Almost forgot the threads in the frame are 3/8-24.... And I have to buy 2 bolts anyhow so I was thinking why not use Allen head bolts then I wont need to clearance the rubber.... Edited January 8, 2021 by Crashtd420 3 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted January 8, 2021 Report Share Posted January 8, 2021 Don’t use stainless bolts. lol 3 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted January 8, 2021 Report Share Posted January 8, 2021 (edited) 13 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: Also to note I believe daystar sells taller and a shorter versions of this bump stop but has the same base.... Almost forgot the threads in the frame are 3/8-24.... And I have to buy 2 bolts anyhow so I was thinking why not use Allen head bolts then I wont need to clearance the rubber.... I prefer the button head allen bolts, I buy the black ones and have them all over my 66 520. I like to buy my bolts and hardware by the box instead of individual unless it is a higher priced piece. If I do buy by the individual piece I also get a few extra in case I damage or loose one or two. Edited January 8, 2021 by Charlie69 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 Went for the easy win and finished mocking up the bump stop... I just got regular bolts, no fine pitch allan heads.... not a big deal.... ground a little clearance in the rubber and I used a regular bolt and was able to use a socket to tighten..... Also side slotted it so I could center it on the frame rail.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 Second picture is at a slight angle to show it's under the frame rail .... The bar looks wierd in the picture but it's just the angle... dont worry.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 I also decided to see how the disk brake conversion was gonna work. I just used some bolts to mount the brackets for now..... mostly I was curious about what I'm going to use for ebrake cables.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2021 Lastly decided to cut the center bar free again... I have it sitting where I want but the mount is crooked.... I'll need to grind down the tabs to level it out before I weld it on... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2021 (edited) Much better this time..... Edited January 10, 2021 by Crashtd420 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2021 (edited) I also got the watts link tacked onto the axle housing.... Nice and square and level..... Next are the bars that connect it to the frame...... Edited January 10, 2021 by Crashtd420 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted January 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2021 Got the watts links mocked up, everything moves nicely... next I'll need to prepare the frame for welding and I should be able to get those tacked in place this week.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.