Crashtd420 Posted December 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2020 (edited) 4 hours ago, mainer311 said: Have fun with that diff! Not sure what you mean? It's not rusty if that's what your thinking... it does have a milky film on it but it wiped right off, and everything seems perfect... I'll give it a good cleaning before it goes back in.... Edited December 25, 2020 by Crashtd420 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 25, 2020 Report Share Posted December 25, 2020 (edited) What’s the history of this thing? You sure the pinion and carrier bearings are “fine” if it had water in there? Plus the pinion seal. I’d rebuild the whole thing while you already have it out. Edited December 25, 2020 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 25, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2020 2 hours ago, mainer311 said: What’s the history of this thing? You sure the pinion and carrier bearings are “fine” if it had water in there? Plus the pinion seal. I’d rebuild the whole thing while you already have it out. The water in there wasnt as bad as I really thought, picture made it look worse, even the bucket I drained it into looked fine after it settled.. there is absolutely no signs of rust or pitting or slop that I could see or feel, but I'm definitely gonna clean it up and inspect it more , but I really dont wanna take it further apart.... even the pinion seal has never leaked, even with using royal purple in it..... This is the differential I've been running since I bought the truck and good chance its original to the truck... 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 25, 2020 Report Share Posted December 25, 2020 Oh, I thought this was out of the spare axle that you have. It’s probably fine. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 Got this from my wife for Christmas.... 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 Also got a little work done after cleaning up a little... Decided to remove the rest of the drive shaft vs just separating it at the slip shaft..... I also un bolted it at the carrier bearing flange..... I wanted to correctly check the angle of the 2 flanges... At the transmission and at the carrier bearing so I can properly angle the differential to match before welding on the brackets.... Once I had it out I noticed a couple things.... first thing was it seemed kind of wet with oil ..... well damn it.... something has been wrong for a while... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 Yup , wide open.... Luckily i had the fix in my parts pile.. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 I had used a spare one to check the angle.... I wasn't planning on taking the one off the end of the driveshaft but I had a wierd suspension which I guess I was right about..... So when I put the 2 side by side I noticed something else.... I was using the one on the left but I think the one on the right would be a better choice.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 I think the seal was actually riding on that edge above the flange not on the true diameter it should be.... Probably should replace that seal now too..... 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 27, 2020 Report Share Posted December 27, 2020 (edited) Yeah, slip yokes like to leak down the splines. On later model Nissans, they use a crush washer of sorts behind the nut. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don’t. Is that a same size freeze plug from the block? 40mm? Edited December 27, 2020 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 27, 2020 Report Share Posted December 27, 2020 I run a bead of black RTV around the splines after the flange has been placed over the shaft, but before the washer and nut are installed. This is a pretty common place for leaks to occur and the silicone will keep it from happening again, assuming the nut never comes loose. A lot of OEMs do this too and some have even graduated to using an o-ring. I feel that the RTV is actually better than the o-ring. To be clear, I don't smear the splines or the threads with RTV. I run the bead where the flange meets the shaft, just under the washer. 2 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 27, 2020 Report Share Posted December 27, 2020 12 hours ago, mainer311 said: Yeah, slip yokes like to leak down the splines. On later model Nissans, they use a crush washer of sorts behind the nut. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don’t. Is that a same size freeze plug from the block? 40mm? yes it’s the same size as the ones in the block. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2020 Got a little more done today. I cut the other bump stop bracket off and had to do a small repair to the metal behind it... Got everything ground down on the axle and got things in place to start measuring and setting it all up.... Hopefully I can get some things tacked up tomorrow. ... 4 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2020 Spent the last couple hours measuring, measuring, checking angles, and more measuring and rechecking angles.... I think im ready to tack the brackets to the axle..... 4 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 28, 2020 Report Share Posted December 28, 2020 I can’t believe how nice the frame looks on your truck. Mine looks like a rusty pile. 3 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 28, 2020 Report Share Posted December 28, 2020 16 minutes ago, mainer311 said: I can’t believe how nice the frame looks on your truck. Mine looks like a rusty pile. It was a CA truck for the majority of its life right Crash? Mine was too but it too looks like a surface rust pile. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2020 15 minutes ago, mainer311 said: I can’t believe how nice the frame looks on your truck. Mine looks like a rusty pile. 20 minutes ago, d.p said: It was a CA truck for the majority of its life right Crash? Mine was too but it too looks like a surface rust pile. That and por15..... I rebuilt everything starting with the frame..... It may look ratty but everything is new under it.... 3 Quote Link to comment
BrothersGarage Posted December 29, 2020 Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 20 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: It may look ratty but everything is new under it.... Gotta be the slogan for all Datsun owners at this point 😄 Lookin good! 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 Got the crossmember tacked in today along with the tabs for the center bar. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 29, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 I'm happy with the way it moves, it maintains pinion angle as it moves up and down.... I have 2 degrees set at all 3 flanges..... so drive line angles should be good when I'm done.... I'm gonna clamp the coilover crossmember in tomorrow so I can cycle the suspension and do some measuring for the coilovers so I can get them on order.... Good thing I only tacked the axle into the brackets.... something seemed off today when I was setting up the center bar and i ended up cutting the axle free and shifting it an 1/8 to the left.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 29, 2020 Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 I can't tell from the pic, but it looks like the upper and lower links are parallel. Are they parallel? If so, this is not good. They should have some separation to intersect at some point in front of them. This is for anti dive and it is what makes your tires hook up. Picture the diff sort of rotating in a curling fashion as the axle moves up. A little bit of that is good. Too much and you break shit. Too little and the back of the car lifts under power, which is not good either. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: I can't tell from the pic, but it looks like the upper and lower links are parallel. Are they parallel? If so, this is not good. They should have some separation to intersect at some point in front of them. This is for anti dive and it is what makes your tires hook up. Picture the diff sort of rotating in a curling fashion as the axle moves up. A little bit of that is good. Too much and you break shit. Too little and the back of the car lifts under power, which is not good either. I'm not sure I understand..... I guess another good reason for tac welds...... So yes the 3 link are parallel to each other..... and this is at the ride height I want..... So the links are angled 3.5 degrees down.... Since I cant really adjust the 2 outer ones are you saying I should lower the center bar? Maybe make that read 0 instead of 3.5? 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 Yes, on the vertical plane (from the side view), the upper and lower control arms should not be parallel. See this diagram as an example. 1 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 30, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 26 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Yes, on the vertical plane (from the side view), the upper and lower control arms should not be parallel. See this diagram as an example. Thanks alot for having such a keen eye, would have sucked if I already fully welded that in.... I will cut the crossmember free and lower it to achieve the proper angle.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 30, 2020 Report Share Posted December 30, 2020 Sure Neil, That's why you tack weld. Nothing sucks more than having to cut off something that's final welded. I may as well post my reply to your PM here. I can't say for sure what the angle of the links will be. That final number will be based on wheelbase, instant center and anti-dive. Take a few measurements and plug them into the xls calculator I attached a while back. The instant center should be somewhere behind the front axle centerline, 2 Quote Link to comment
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