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A 521 in Massachusetts


Crashtd420

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4 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Have fun with that diff!

Not sure what you mean?

It's not rusty if that's what your thinking... it does have a milky film on it but it wiped right off, and everything seems perfect... I'll give it a good cleaning before it goes back in.... 

Edited by Crashtd420
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2 hours ago, mainer311 said:

What’s the history of this thing? You sure the pinion and carrier bearings are “fine” if it had water in there? Plus the pinion seal. I’d rebuild the whole thing while you already have it out.

The water in there wasnt as bad as I really thought, picture made it look worse, even the bucket I drained it into looked fine after it settled..  there is absolutely no signs of rust or pitting or slop that I could see or feel, but I'm definitely gonna clean it up and inspect it more , but I really dont wanna take it further apart.... even the pinion seal has never leaked, even with using royal purple in it.....

This is the differential I've been running since I bought the truck and good chance its original to the truck...

 

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Also got a little work done after cleaning up a little...

Decided to remove the rest of the drive shaft vs just separating it at the slip shaft..... 

I also un bolted it at the carrier bearing flange..... I wanted to correctly check the angle of the 2 flanges...

At the transmission and at the carrier bearing so I can properly angle the differential to match before welding on the brackets....

Once I had it out I noticed a couple things.... first thing was it seemed kind of wet with oil ..... well damn it.... something has been wrong for a while...

20201226_173559.jpg

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I had used a spare one to check the angle.... 

I wasn't planning on taking the one off the end of the driveshaft but I had a wierd suspension which I guess I was right about.....

So when I put the 2 side by side I noticed something else....

20201226-173858.jpg

 

I was using the one on the left but I think the one on the right would be a better choice.... 

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Yeah, slip yokes like to leak down the splines. On later model Nissans, they use a crush washer of sorts behind the nut. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don’t. 
 

Is that a same size freeze plug from the block? 40mm?

Edited by mainer311
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I run a bead of black RTV around the splines after the flange has been placed over the shaft, but before the washer and nut are installed. This is a pretty common place for leaks to occur and the silicone will keep it from happening again, assuming the nut never comes loose. A lot of OEMs do this too and some have even graduated to using an o-ring. I feel that the RTV is actually better than the o-ring.

 

To be clear, I don't smear the splines or the threads with RTV. I run the bead where the flange meets the shaft, just under the washer.

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12 hours ago, mainer311 said:

Yeah, slip yokes like to leak down the splines. On later model Nissans, they use a crush washer of sorts behind the nut. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don’t. 
 

Is that a same size freeze plug from the block? 40mm?


yes it’s the same size as the ones in the block.  

4ED75084-DC3E-4601-BAD9-38509D088F95.jpeg

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Got a little more done today.  I cut the other bump stop bracket off and had to do a small repair to the metal behind it...

Got everything ground down on the axle and got things in place to start measuring and setting it all up.... 

Hopefully I can get some things tacked up tomorrow. ... 

20201227_163148.jpg

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16 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

I can’t believe how nice the frame looks on your truck. Mine looks like a rusty pile.

 

It was a CA truck for the majority of its life right Crash?  Mine was too but it too looks like a surface rust pile. 

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15 minutes ago, mainer311 said:

I can’t believe how nice the frame looks on your truck. Mine looks like a rusty pile.

 

 

20 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

It was a CA truck for the majority of its life right Crash?  Mine was too but it too looks like a surface rust pile. 

 

That and por15..... I rebuilt everything starting with the frame..... 

It may look ratty but everything is new under it....

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I'm happy with the way it moves, it maintains pinion angle as it moves up and down.... I have 2 degrees set at all 3 flanges..... so drive line angles should be good when I'm done.... 

I'm gonna clamp  the coilover crossmember in tomorrow so I can cycle the suspension and do some measuring for the coilovers so I can get them on order....

Good thing I only tacked the axle into the brackets.... something seemed off today when I was setting up the center bar and i ended up cutting the axle free and shifting it an 1/8 to the left.... 

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I can't tell from the pic, but it looks like the upper and lower links are parallel. Are they parallel? If so, this is not good. They should have some separation to intersect at some point in front of them. This is for anti dive and it is what makes your tires hook up. Picture the diff sort of rotating in a curling fashion as the axle moves up. A little bit of that is good. Too much and you break shit. Too little and the back of the car lifts under power, which is not good either.

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I can't tell from the pic, but it looks like the upper and lower links are parallel. Are they parallel? If so, this is not good. They should have some separation to intersect at some point in front of them. This is for anti dive and it is what makes your tires hook up. Picture the diff sort of rotating in a curling fashion as the axle moves up. A little bit of that is good. Too much and you break shit. Too little and the back of the car lifts under power, which is not good either.

I'm not sure I understand.....

I guess another good reason for tac welds......

So yes the 3 link are parallel to each other..... and this is at the ride height I want.....

So the links are angled 3.5 degrees down.... 

Since I cant really adjust the 2 outer ones are you saying I should lower the center bar? Maybe make that read 0 instead of 3.5?

 

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26 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Yes, on the vertical plane (from the side view), the upper and lower control arms should not be parallel.

 

See this diagram as an example.

 

https://www.crawlpedia.com/images/anti_squat_below.jpg

Thanks alot for having such a keen eye, would have sucked if I already fully welded that in.... I will cut the crossmember free and lower it to achieve the proper angle.... 

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Sure Neil, That's why you tack weld. Nothing sucks more than having to cut off something that's final welded.

 

I may as well post my reply to your PM here.

 

I can't say for sure what the angle of the links will be. That final number will be based on wheelbase, instant center and anti-dive. Take a few measurements and plug them into the xls calculator I attached a while back. The instant center should be somewhere behind the front axle centerline,

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