Crashtd420 Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 The watts link section uses the poly bushing on the center rotating point but the bars connecting it to the frame has bearing ends on them...... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 I did find suitable johnny joints, the center bar just has tabs to weld to the differential, so that one will be easy to change the mounting width.... the 2 under the axle would need 1/2 spacers for the width to suit the brackets..... 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 Yeah, I've seen the johnny joints. I could be totally off base, it's just my sense that the bushings being sandwiched between the tabs will not allow unhindered movement, probably resulting in a more harsh ride than necessary, and possibly failure down the line... 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 6 hours ago, thisismatt said: Yeah, I've seen the johnny joints. I could be totally off base, it's just my sense that the bushings being sandwiched between the tabs will not allow unhindered movement, probably resulting in a more harsh ride than necessary, and possibly failure down the line... I think you have a valid point.... While I think the mounts on the frame will be fine I think upgrading to Johnny joints for the 3 axle mounts would be a wise investment.... they allow 25 degrees of movement.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 14, 2020 Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 The joints supplied in the kit are fine for what you are doing. The bushings inside have enough give to allow enough for regular road driving. Johnny joints are overkill, and they loosen up over time and get noisy. A better solution than the johnny joint looks the same as a johnny joint but has a vulcanized rubber bushing inserted. The housing is the same as the johhny joint so replacement means removing the clips and sliding out the joint and pressing a new one in. Heims suck for road cars, so don't go there. Good suppliers for those builder parts are - https://www.polyperformance.com/suspension/joints-accessories/joints-rod-ends https://www.synergymfg.com/ https://www.kartek.com/ https://www.offroadwarehouse.com/ http://partsmike.com/ https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/ I would stick with what you have already. They aren't the best, but they will last a long time before you wear them out. At that point, you can replace them with something better. I do like that you're thinking outside the box though. 3 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 14, 2020 Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 Yeah, this is along the lines of what I was thinking, but maybe a cheaper OEM pressed in bushing. Essentially, trying to separate the inner & outer sleeves from being clamped together... https://www.polyperformance.com/synergy-dual-durometer-bushings-ddb-in-forged-housings 4 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 14 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: I would stick with what you have already. They aren't the best, but they will last a long time before you wear them out. At that point, you can replace them with something better. I'm gonna follow this direction for now.... I can always swap the 3 ends later.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 13 hours ago, thisismatt said: Yeah, this is along the lines of what I was thinking, but maybe a cheaper OEM pressed in bushing. Essentially, trying to separate the inner & outer sleeves from being clamped together... https://www.polyperformance.com/synergy-dual-durometer-bushings-ddb-in-forged-housings I appreciate your comments and questions, I know very little about suspension geometry so all this was worth the debate.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 On a side note , this arrived today.... Plow for the nissan frontier.... Wife added the awesome, I guess she's glad she wont have to help me shovel.... Some assembly required, hopefully I can get it built quick, snow in 3 days..... 4 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 14, 2020 Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 Man you do not fuck around. Is that for a side business or just to plow your own driveway? 2 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 14, 2020 Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: On a side note , this arrived today.... Plow for the nissan frontier.... Wife added the awesome, I guess she's glad she wont have to help me shovel.... Some assembly required, hopefully I can get it built quick, snow in 3 days..... Now I gotta get you to come plow mine!! Hahaha 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 2 hours ago, d.p said: Man you do not fuck around. Is that for a side business or just to plow your own driveway? Just for me.... it a homeowner type so its light duty, power up and down but manually has to be angled left or right.. We have a rather large horseshoe driveway.... the driveways are not bad but there is a 60ft x 30ft section between the garage and house and it sucks if it's too wet for the snow blower.... I had a double hernia surgery 2 years ago and have had issues with the disks my kneck and I'm not getting any younger..... as I get older I try to work smarter.... We fired the plow guy (family friend to my wife) last year because he just sucked, he had too big of a truck and plow for our driveway and either showed up early and never came back or did a half ass job..... So I inherited the job, did it last year with just a snow blower.... this will be much better..... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 13 minutes ago, demo243 said: Now I gotta get you to come plow mine!! Hahaha If you were closer I'd be happy to..... Luckily I dont think I know anyone close enough to have to bother..... 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 14, 2020 Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 4 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: If you were closer I'd be happy to..... Luckily I dont think I know anyone close enough to have to bother..... My driveway is small enough any way... only takes a about 4 passes with the snowblower. just need to strategically place the cars to take up a lot of space so there is less to actually clear. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 4 minutes ago, demo243 said: My driveway is small enough any way... only takes a about 4 passes with the snowblower. just need to strategically place the cars to take up a lot of space so there is less to actually clear. We need to do a mini truck run this spring just for fun.... I didnt get to go to one car show last year because of covid.... 1 Quote Link to comment
demo243 Posted December 14, 2020 Report Share Posted December 14, 2020 2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: We need to do a mini truck run this spring just for fun.... I didnt get to go to one car show last year because of covid.... We definitely do! Never made it to a single show this season... Drove the shit out of the 620 this summer though. Put over 1,000 miles on it! Pretty good for not having a commute or anything to really do hahaha. There was a new cars and coffee up in Andover that started up. Kept meaning to get up there but didn’t make it. Hoping they do it again next summer. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 2 hours ago, demo243 said: We definitely do! Never made it to a single show this season... Drove the shit out of the 620 this summer though. Put over 1,000 miles on it! Pretty good for not having a commute or anything to really do hahaha. There was a new cars and coffee up in Andover that started up. Kept meaning to get up there but didn’t make it. Hoping they do it again next summer. Ya I managed to clock about 3500 miles,... would have been another 3000 if I didn't change jobs... Andover isn't to far for me, only about a 40 minute drive, guess we will see what happen in the spring... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 Got to unbox the plow when I got home, I'm actually impressed with how beefy its seems to be..... Most of the homeowners use a 2" front reciever to mount the plow... the one I got came with a vehicle specific mount... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 Other pieces..... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 15, 2020 Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 Throw it on the front of your 521 my dude. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 Now that would be the start of some real mad max shit there.... I'd have add spikes to the plow and get bigger stacks and big turret or something for the bed..... I love the cars from the latest one fury road.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 So I'm sure the answer would always be lower is better, but I like not bottoming out and rubbing..... I had originally got a measurement of about 13 inch for the length of the coilover at ride height.... this would match how my truck was sitting.... So I was thinking the ds403 coilover.... But then I was thinking I did wanna lower it just a little more.... So I thought the ds 401 might be a better choice.... I think I almost answered my own question as I'm typing but I'm still looking for an opinion.... What I comes down to is 12 1/2 is probably going to be where the ride will be set on the coilover... My thought is having more downward travel is better... Plus worse case if I'm actually too low I could lower the coilover to 12, then add the one inch extension and get back to 13... this seems like it give me better options.. and using the ds403 at 12 1/2 that's only 1 1/8 left till it bottoms out... Does it seem logical to use the ds401? And it says 9 or 10 inch spring.... How do I know which spring to choose? 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 15, 2020 Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 (edited) Whenever I build a link suspension, I build it at "full bump", meaning that all of my fab work is done with the axle stuffed all the way up into the chassis. The reason for this should be obvious, as that's the place in the suspension cycle that you will have the most problems. How this relates to shocks is simple. You have a couple things you know. A- I know that I can't fit anything where it won't go, ie - full bump. B- I know the truck is going to be at this ride height, so measure the distance from full stuff to ideal ride height. C- I know that I want the longest shock possible. Now what you don't know. I don't know how much droop (down travel) I can get within the space limitations. Ideally, the shock would be in the middle of its travel at ride height. Using the full bump measurement, what is the maximum length of shock that will fit in the space between the axle at ride height and the axle at full bump? Will this shock give you enough droop? Does it come anywhere close to the middle of the travel at ride height? If yes, then that's your shock. If no, then you have to chose between making adjustments to the mounting points (raise or lower them, or move them diagonally), or you have to start adjusting your priorities. Do I need full bump? How much droop can I live with? Does any of this make sense? Edited December 15, 2020 by Stoffregen Motorsports 3 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 15, 2020 Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 (edited) Springs are easily changed and they are cheap, so given the weight of the truck, and the rate of the front spring, you can make an educated guess. If you don't like them, swapping them out takes about two hours and costs about $150. The length of the spring needs to be compatible with the travel of the shock. You measure the wire diameter of the spring, multiply this by the number of coils and then subtract this from the overall length of the spring. Does it match your travel? Edited December 15, 2020 by Stoffregen Motorsports 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 15, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 15, 2020 I might have to read that a few more times.... I guess I was hoping to be spoon fed a little on this one but I get what your saying 2 Quote Link to comment
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