Crashtd420 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 I got lucky today, shop lost power, by the time it would have been restored it would have been time to go home, so I got to leave work at 1... Proceeded to get the rest of the truck torn down... Then I remembered I actually have to remove the axles to get the differential out.... And the differential does not wanna come out.... one of the studs did though... 3 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted December 10, 2020 Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 I got one, where you want me to ship it? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 I'll make sure to give you a fake address 1 1 Quote Link to comment
gene knight Posted December 11, 2020 Report Share Posted December 11, 2020 On 11/24/2020 at 9:29 AM, Crashtd420 said: Had some extra cash this week so I ordered the seals for the axle and all the components for the rear disk brakes setup.... I'll have to figure out the emergency brake and do a little more digging about the master cylinder.... I'm pretty sure its for a vehicle with front disk and rear drums, so I dont know what that really means when I switch to disks in the rear... I have an adjustable proportioning valve but have no clue if it's even doing what it should or if its adjusted properly right now, or even needed. . who are you going thru to get rear disc brake setup cuz i thought about using silvermine motors they have a complete rear disc brake kit for my 521 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted December 11, 2020 Report Share Posted December 11, 2020 I find it easiest to brake the pumkin loose while still under the truck. Looks good! 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2020 7 hours ago, gene knight said: who are you going thru to get rear disc brake setup cuz i thought about using silvermine motors they have a complete rear disc brake kit for my 521 I am using beebani's brackets, I bought it with all my coilover conversion parts last year.... the silvermine setup is basically the same if you are looking at the basic upgrade not the wilwood... It's all 1990 isuzu pickup parts.... Personally I say buy their brackets and buy the rest of the parts at the local parts store.... then you can get a lifetime warranty on the brake calipers.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2020 6 hours ago, Charlie69 said: I find it easiest to brake the pumkin loose while still under the truck. Looks good! Ya I thought about it after the fact, kind of forgot I needed to keep my gears.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 11, 2020 Report Share Posted December 11, 2020 Lookin' good Neil. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2020 54 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Lookin' good Neil. Ya now the real fun begins.... I'll be taking plenty of pictures... What I need to do is get the axle and rear crossmember in place to measure for the coilovers I want.... I want them in hand before I weld anything so I can make sure everything is where it should be and nothing binds as it all moves up and down..... 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2020 Already planning next winters projects... Today's delivery..... 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 12, 2020 Report Share Posted December 12, 2020 Hah, that’s what I was just out in the garage doing. I bought a .315” flex hone and was out there hogging away with my cordless drill. 5 are good, 3 are close. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 12, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2020 I'm getting ready to get out there in a little bit. I have been trimming off the leaf spring pads from the axle and still trying to get the stupid differential out... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 On 12/11/2020 at 2:03 PM, Crashtd420 said: Ya now the real fun begins.... I'll be taking plenty of pictures... What I need to do is get the axle and rear crossmember in place to measure for the coilovers I want.... I want them in hand before I weld anything so I can make sure everything is where it should be and nothing binds as it all moves up and down..... That's a good plan. Never start a project until all the hard parts are in hand. Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 (edited) 4 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: I'm getting ready to get out there in a little bit. I have been trimming off the leaf spring pads from the axle and still trying to get the stupid differential out... Giant dead blow hammer on the pinion flange. Just don't let it drop on your foot. Edited December 13, 2020 by Stoffregen Motorsports 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 9 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: Giant dead blow hammer on the pinion flange. Just don't let it drop on your foot. I'll give that a try tomorrow.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 I did manage to get a good amount done today..... Got the axle leaf spring pads cut off, still need to clean up the housing.... Loosely installed the outer bars and the mounts that get welded to the axle housing..... This finally needed to be cut out.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 (edited) Next the rear crossmember... I'll need to cut the 2 brackets off that I believe are for the bump stops, the crossmember still need to move forward 1/2 inch..... you can see the red laser line, it should be flush to the rear edge of the crossmember.... This was close enough to get me a measurement of 13" for my coilover ride height ... looks like the qa1 ds403 fit the bill..... Compressed Height: 11-1/8" Extended Height: 15" Ride Height: 12-1/2" to 13-1/4" Spring Length: 10" Edited December 13, 2020 by Crashtd420 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 Someone explain to me how you get articulation without binding or loosening adjusters/heim joints when the bushings are sandwiched inside the tabs/brackets like this. I see it a lot and it just seems like a bad plan to me compared to a fused bushing or a joint with misalignment room. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 It’s a lowered mini truck, not a crawler. There should be enough rotation in the forward heims to allow some rotation in arm. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 The front upper control arm bushing is done the same way from the factory... technically aren't you clamping against the steel sleeve inside the bushing? I will make sure to have it at ride height before I tighten everything up.... Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 The front UCA is only rotating, it's not also being asked to twist. The rear going over a speed bump perfectly perpendicularly, no problem, but the link needs to twist if only one wheel is going over a bump or dropping into a pothole. Dunno, I figure Stoffregen will chime in... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 8 hours ago, thisismatt said: The front UCA is only rotating, it's not also being asked to twist. The rear going over a speed bump perfectly perpendicularly, no problem, but the link needs to twist if only one wheel is going over a bump or dropping into a pothole. Dunno, I figure Stoffregen will chime in... Ok I see your point now..... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 8 hours ago, thisismatt said: The front UCA is only rotating, it's not also being asked to twist. The rear going over a speed bump perfectly perpendicularly, no problem, but the link needs to twist if only one wheel is going over a bump or dropping into a pothole. Dunno, I figure Stoffregen will chime in... Been doing some investigating this morning, while it seems oem uses just bushings for a quiter ride I do see the limitations you mention..... One thing I did see were johnny joints.... They are a cross between the poly bushing and a heim..... I can actually purchase them as a threaded assembly... Picture is just an example..... I'm now thinking about swapping out the 3 adjustable end out for these... Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 13, 2020 Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 I thought Beebani included heims on the front of the links already? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 13, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2020 4 minutes ago, mainer311 said: I thought Beebani included heims on the front of the links already? No the 3 main bars are just the poly bushing..... Looks like this, only one end is removable..... Quote Link to comment
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