Crashtd420 Posted December 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 10 hours ago, chukar said: I believe Mike (Bluehands) has a video showing how to remove the race. I'll see if I can dig it up for you but basically he used a small cutoff wheel to cut the race diagonally and then a cold chisel. I used his approach and it worked great for me. Ya I saw the video you posted and the assembly's are not the same, different style bearing..... but thanks.... 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 5, 2020 Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 I just slot them and make them crack. It’s easier than it sounds. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 5, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 1 hour ago, mainer311 said: I just slot them and make them crack. It’s easier than it sounds. I had contemplated that , but I honestly just don't wanna waste my time or mess anything up, there are certain things I'd rather do my self, this doesnt seem to be fitting that bill .. i would need to buy some small cutting off wheels for my dremel, then I'll probably spend a few hours working on them.... vs drop of pick up and pay bill.... worth it to me... 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 5, 2020 Report Share Posted December 5, 2020 (edited) Never mind, I thought you were talking about a hub that was removable. Edited December 5, 2020 by wayno 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 (edited) I managed to get a little work done today.... Cleaned up the hubs.... Before... After.... I tried to rent something today to do the bearing race but they really didnt have anything proper.... I'm gonna price out a proper removal tool next since I do enjoy doing things myself but chances are it's just cheaper and easier to leave it to my mechanic.... Edited December 6, 2020 by Crashtd420 3 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 Is this off of your rear end? What’s your rear end from? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 No I had another rear end.... I never had a bed for the truck, so years back I bought a trailer down in Pennsylvania made out of the back half of a 521.... it had the complete axle assembly underneath.... I didn't wanna make the truck not driveable while I rebuilt and stripped the axle... I was hoping to be further along at this point, but other house projects popped that took priority.... I do need to use the differential under the truck, unfortunately the other gear set are the 488 gears.. 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 Weird. I’ve never seen housings like these. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 6, 2020 Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 43081-32201 bearing cage/retainer.... used on all 520/521 rear axles and the Patrol 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 6, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2020 1 hour ago, mainer311 said: Weird. I’ve never seen housings like these. Do you mean in general or on the 521? It might just looks wierd because It's in it's most stripped down state... no backing plate or brake components attached..... 2 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 7, 2020 Report Share Posted December 7, 2020 Maybe I’m just used to the roadster retaining plates and never looked very hard at the truck axle when I was redoing the rear brakes. The roadster uses “grease catchers” and it looks completely different. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 8, 2020 Report Share Posted December 8, 2020 So you're finally doing the rear link system? Let me know if you need any pointers. A good friend told me once that "it should judt look right. If it doesn't look right, it isn't going to work well." I agree. Try to visualize in your head what the suspension will do when power is applied, or braking, or as it travels through the cycle. Did you look at that link calculator? I have a XLS file I can try to attach here. One is a three link calculator, the other is for a four link. You can manipulate them both to get what you need. Les_Wong_3_link_calculator_front.xlsx 4BarLinkV3.0c-1_Allen_W_FJ40_rev_2.xls 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 8, 2020 Report Share Posted December 8, 2020 These are both suspensions I designed for offroad, but the logic is the same. For the record, they were on different vehicles with the 3 link in the front of a BJ74 Land Cruiser and the 4 link in the rear of an FJ40 buggy. A couple rules of thumb first. 1 - the vertical distance between the top link mounting point on the axle and the lower link mounting point on the axle should be at leas 25% of the diameter of the tire. If you're ever going to go with a larger tire, work this in now. 2 - the top link should be at least 2/3 the length of the lower link. Sometimes they are equal length, sometimes not. I think the 4 link rear system I built in that example, the upper links were longer than the lowers. 3 - the lower link should be as flat to the ground as possible. This is a good baseline and can be tweaked to get the desired results, ie- anti dive, etc. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2020 11 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: So you're finally doing the rear link system? Let me know if you need any pointers. A good friend told me once that "it should judt look right. If it doesn't look right, it isn't going to work well." I agree. Try to visualize in your head what the suspension will do when power is applied, or braking, or as it travels through the cycle. Did you look at that link calculator? I have a XLS file I can try to attach here. One is a three link calculator, the other is for a four link. You can manipulate them both to get what you need. Les_Wong_3_link_calculator_front.xlsx 69.12 kB · 5 downloads 4BarLinkV3.0c-1_Allen_W_FJ40_rev_2.xls 159.5 kB · 4 downloads Thanks for the info, I will definitely hit you up once I get deeper into this... Once I get some measurements I want I'll get it up on stands and in position... My plan is to obviously remove the old stuff and then mockup everything with small tack welds and clamps.... This will get me to the point I can order the coilovers.... I'm pretty confident with my plan of attack but that can always change..... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2020 Got a little work done today after work... Ready to disassemble.... Already see a couple issues.... a few things will have to get moved slightly... Gas tank will have to be lowered slightly to allow for a new crossmember where the center bar will mount.... 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2020 We got some nasty wet heavy snow the other day..... snowblowers failed me, and shoveling our entire driveway sucked.... I have no desire to ruin my back so i bought myself a homeowners plow for my frontier today..... 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 Did you have pump gas in the snow blower engines or did you have non-ethanol gas in them? 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, wayno said: Did you have pump gas in the snow blower engines or did you have non-ethanol gas in them? It wouldn’t have mattered much. It was wet slop that just ends up clogging the snowblower. I didn’t even bother with it, and now my driveway is a skating rink. My Toro with pump gas fired on one pull a couple days ago. Edited December 9, 2020 by mainer311 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 How much will you need to lower the fuel tank? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 7 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: How much will you need to lower the fuel tank? About 2", basically the height of the crossmember I need to install... I have the room, if you look under tank the ebrake cable is there and I have over 2" clearance.... When I mounted the tank I just put it where I wanted it so it was tucked up just about touching the bottom of the bed.... 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 12 hours ago, wayno said: Did you have pump gas in the snow blower engines or did you have non-ethanol gas in them? 9 hours ago, mainer311 said: It wouldn’t have mattered much. It was wet slop that just ends up clogging the snowblower. I didn’t even bother with it, and now my driveway is a skating rink. My Toro with pump gas fired on one pull a couple days ago. I should have clarified, snowblowers worked but snow was too wet for them to be used.... And Yes just pump gas but it's never more than 3 to 6 months old.... I keep my stuff in a garage and have never had a problem restarting starting anything due to the gas, even my generator, which barely gets used.... I will drain the generator after 6 to 8 months though just incase but I'll still use the gas in my nissan, but I have never drained the snowblowers or mower.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 9, 2020 Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 5 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: About 2", basically the height of the crossmember I need to install... I have the room, if you look under tank the ebrake cable is there and I have over 2" clearance.... When I mounted the tank I just put it where I wanted it so it was tucked up just about touching the bottom of the bed.... So where do the shocks mount? In front or behind the axle? 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 9, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2020 5 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said: So where do the shocks mount? In front or behind the axle? Behind.... 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 (edited) Managed to get some garage time after work... I was able to remove the exhaust, gas tank, fuel lines, battery, shocks and disconnected the rear brakes..... Edited December 10, 2020 by Crashtd420 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 10, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 10, 2020 Got a new sticker for the back window, thanks stroffgren.... If anyone else has a company sticker and wants to send me one ( even of I have to send you a couple $$) for my back window I'd be happy to scrape off some old stickers and display fellow ratsun members... 1 Quote Link to comment
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