Crashtd420 Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Well this looks like what I need to use to connect my proportioning valve... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Why not just bubble flare the tubing and use the stock type male thread nut? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Not sure I follow what your saying?... Are you talking about trying to connect to the 3an fitting?. that was incorrectly installed... Or putting the flared tube right in the side of the valve? This is a bad pick of the side of the prop valve... The flare is opposite so in sense The open ends of the tube and valve would be ... < >... That fitting would be the connection between the flares.... nut on the tube.. .... < <-> >-... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 No. Ditch the -3 AN fitting. Install the male thread 10mm tube nut on the tubing then flare the tubing, but not inverted flare, with a bubble flare. Difference between bubble and inverted flare - https://www.google.com/search?q=bubble+flare+vs+inverted&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwiO1OmJpsXTAhVC12MKHWcLASoQ_AUIBigB&biw=1680&bih=910#imgrc=XxyVnhB4lFVPrM: 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 3an already gone.. and what you said makes more sense.... I had to look up how to make a bubble flare though .... seems straight forward.... looks like it would work.... I'll give it a try... thanks 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 Got the 4th door hinge finally done.. Did better one the passenger side than I did the drivers.... but the drivers was the most messed up.... maybe I should have started with a different one.... oh well Slight learning curve. ... top ones were alittle trickier... bottoms were much easier... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted April 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 And is this ratsun enough for everyone.... painting the gas tank and other panels soon so I needed to move my truck into my wife's garage, and who wants to push when you have a running engine.... 2 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 What could possibly go wrong? 3 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Is that a suicide bomber from the middle east? LOL 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Ya It does.. I don't know why the guy at the dyno shop wouldn't let me do this.... Guess I better get some painting done.... All this plus the Gas tank and a bunch of trim pieces getting for some paint.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Also got the new tires on the rims... Before... I forget the size.... didn't like me lowering it with that size tire. After.... 195/60-15... Much better.... and the whole truck sits even lower.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 So I'm getting things ready for paint and I notice the inner structure of my hood isn't really attached to the outer skin... What is used to bond that cross structure to the outer skin... I can see this ... Most have fallen out, and any that is left is only bonded to one side.... What do I use ? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Easy enough thanks.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Buy it in a calking tube. Squirt a large hershey's kiss size drop and let it harden overnight without moving it. I just did this on the CJ5 I'm restoring. Here's a pic. 4 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Should I do that before or after I paint the hood? 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 If you do it before it'll be body coloured. If you do it after it'll stand out like a sore thumb. Depends on preference 1 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Nissan did it before painting color. 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 After primer, before top coat 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 Should I do that before or after I paint the hood? Yes, before paint. The sealer needs something to bite on. It likes bare metal best. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 Thanks for the advice on the hood... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 Just put my order in today for this.... Wideband o2 system.... Now I can really see what my engine is doing... My narrow band o2 and gauge with just flashy lights sucks... 1 Quote Link to comment
uberkevin Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 This may be a pretty noob question but why so important to know the fuel/air ratio? I understand the basics maybe. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 Wow I just deleted my whole response... Give me a minute... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 Don't worry noob here to.... first datsun.. and first motor i ever built... And basically the reason for the wideband is for tuning... I accidentally over built my motor... so the l16 is at 10.8-1 cr.. Plus there's no one around me that knows weber,so tuning my single weber dcoe is gonna be a learning lesson for me... I would have sworn I need more fuel when I was breaking in my motor on the dyno... and I actually have to lean out my carb.. the o2 sensor will tell me how rich or lean and also when.. . I am new to tuning so information is key. For instance my fuel pump was putting out a little more psi than my carb liked... actually was causing it to flood, if I didn't have a fuel pressure gauge I would have thought that was true because I am using a recommended pump... so now all my info from the dyno is useless ... As far as importance, knowing it isn't really important but having it correct is... Was that you were asking? If I just rambled and didn't really answer it sorry... 2 Quote Link to comment
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