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Crashtd420

A 521 in Massachusetts

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6 minutes ago, d.p said:

 

Haha you and me both but I am learning to be patient with my Datsun.   

 

Hell its been running so well for so long that when i got in it yesterday (after just getting home in it) and it wouldn't start I go out, popped the hood, checked the battery cables and noticed that the negative terminal was loose.   Easy fix and before I would have been heated that it wouldn't start but not anymore.  A new me so to speak.   

Damn your working your way up on Datsun mechanics(But really its a low bar, Datsuns are simple)

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1 hour ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Damn your working your way up on Datsun mechanics(But really its a low bar, Datsuns are simple)

 

Lol ill take it.  I guess when you fuck with something so often you eventually become good at it whether you want to or not.  

 

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Well we had a repeat in weather from yesterday, 90 and humid. When I got home I checked the temperature at the thermostat housing and it was 190.... so I suspect yesterday the worse it got was 195 ,maybe 200 when it was sitting still for a little before I backed it in the garage... 

 

I guess that's not to bad, the bigger fan should help when I'm stopped in traffic.... 

 

For now I'll keep enjoying the a/c and my truck till parts show up...

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I cruised over to grab some pizzas tonight. This is steady cruising at 30-40mph, 87 and humid:

 

9ZJRerK.jpg

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Dang mine to the left of that break unless I’m in stop and go traffic. 

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39 minutes ago, d.p said:

Dang mine to the left of that break unless I’m in stop and go traffic. 


Well, I’m fairly certain the line is the “I’m warmed up” line.

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2 hours ago, d.p said:

Dang mine to the left of that break unless I’m in stop and go traffic. 

Just means your 521 is running a little cooler.

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I've been feeling a little extra vibration around 50 to 60 mph.... oddly it smooths out a bit if I go faster..... 

Either way gave the u-joints a check and the center one was a bit loose. I did mark everything before it took it out..

 

20200625-155006.jpg

 

I had a new one with a grease fitting on my shelf so decided to swap it out....

20200625-153129.jpg

 

20200625-160418.jpg

 

Back together....

20200625-162305.jpg

 

This went together much better and felt real good.. test drive will be work tomorrow morning..... 

 

 

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If in your test drive you find the same vibration  check for an out of balance tire.

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Just now, jagman said:

If in your test drive you find the same vibration  check for an out of balance tire.

Shouldn't be the tires.... they are brand new and balanced.... I might have a 1000 miles on them.....

 

Vibration was definitely better.... 

 

I think it goes back to the fact I lowered the rear but didnt do much with the carrier bearing.... I replaced the ujoint last year but drove around a while before I properly shimmed the carrier. 

 

I will probably double check the pinion angle again this weekend.....

 

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Just to verify checking pinion angle....

I know I want the truck on the ground....

 

Where should I be placing the angle finder?

 

And how much angle do I want?

I've read about 4 degree difference Is good.  

 

 

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Can you post a pic of how you measure it?  At some point I’d like to check mine. 

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Any two input/outputs should be at the same angle. Doesn't matter if the vehicle is level. For a single shaft this would mean the output of the transmission and the input of the differential.

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1 minute ago, thisismatt said:

Any two input/outputs should be at the same angle. Doesn't matter if the vehicle is level. For a single shaft this would mean the output of the transmission and the input of the differential.

 

So if the the differential flange was pointing down 2 degrees you would want the transmission flange to point 2 degrees up right? 

 

On the 2 piece driveshaft we can use the flange after the carrier bearing right?

 

 

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Gotta check these measureents on the 510 --- Could be one of the reasons I have so much noise on decel...

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I have 2deg Belltech 3in blocks in back and not vibration Nothing elese. No spacer under carrier bearing.

 

But I did have bolts go loose and that where I got my vibrations.

also my leaf spring U bolt nuts on the lowering block sometimes goes loose sometimes so check that

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53 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said:

 

So if the the differential flange was pointing down 2 degrees you would want the transmission flange to point 2 degrees up right? 

 

On the 2 piece driveshaft we can use the flange after the carrier bearing right?

 

 

 

Yes. Trans output and diff pinion angle should ideally be parallel (for U-joint driveshafts only!)

 

The carrier bearing complicates things because it sits relatively level. Luckily the bearing is supported by that rubber donut, so it has some play. Your best bet is to make sure that ALL input/outputs are as level to the ground as possible (or relative to each other) and that all the yokes are lined up. 

 

On a vehicle with all u-joints, sometimes a tapered rear block doesn't make any sense, since lowering the truck probably puts the driveline more inline than it was before. If the pinion sat level to begin with, you want it to sit level after the lift/drop. 

 

(And if you ever tinker with your Frontier, Nissan switched to a CV at the rear of the propshaft at some point. With a CV shaft, you want the pinion to be as straight with the shaft as possible.)

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26 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

I have 2deg Belltech 3in blocks in back and not vibration Nothing elese. No spacer under carrier bearing.

 

But I did have bolts go loose and that where I got my vibrations.

also my leaf spring U bolt nuts on the lowering block sometimes goes loose sometimes so check that

 

I actually have a carrier bearing from a Volvo installed on my driveshaft....

Has it's own pedestal,  so some shimming is neccessary regardless....

 

Everthing else was tight , the u joint I replaced had some side to side play...

 

 

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4 hours ago, Crashtd420 said:

Just to verify checking pinion angle....

I know I want the truck on the ground....

 

Where should I be placing the angle finder?

 

And how much angle do I want?

I've read about 4 degree difference Is good.  

 

 

1 to 3 degrees is perfect, 4 is getting outside the acceptable range.

 

One theory is that if they are exactly matched, there can be a flutter. For some reason, I tend to agree with that theory.

 

2 degrees down on the pinion? I would not want my pinion shaft pointing towards the ground. If you raise it, can you also make adjustments to the trans height? Or is that fixed? When I build trans crossmembers now, if there is any doubt as to future driveline angle needs, I install a couple 1/4" plate shims, which I can remove as needed.

 

Also, on a truck, you have to decide if you want the angles to be set when there is no load in the bed or with it loaded. Some guys plan on carrying loads on a regular basis and will want the angles set with that in mind. You can also split the difference, but then you have the worst of both worlds.

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Stroffgren I can make adjustments at the transmission and the carrier bearing location if needed.... they are both shimmed.... I did similar to what you said when i built my transmission mount..

 

So why do they sell angled blocks then?

Doesnt that tilt the differential down?

 

This is a subject that I have very little to no knowledge about.... 

 

I'd like to know more now so when I finally do the coilovers in the rear I'll have an idea how to set it up....

 

Thanks ....

 

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On 6/21/2020 at 3:25 PM, thisismatt said:

Oreilly's and rockauto show V pulleys on the trucks even past 94

 

Sorry it was the KA engine trucks from '90 on are serpentine with internal fan. VG are still V belt and have external fan through '94 then serpentine and internal fan

 

 

 

On 6/23/2020 at 12:08 PM, d.p said:

 

Lol ill take it.  I guess when you fuck with something so often you eventually become good at it whether you want to or not.  

 

 

She said.

 

jD9eeG7.gif?noredirect

 

 

Drive shaft angles must equal each other with wheels on ground. Above, right part of driveshaft accelerates and decelerates the amount determined by the angle. If the other U joint angle is the same, the accelerations are equally cancelled.

 

I even had half a tank of gas and ballast to simulate the driver. Two things changed on my 710. The 5 speed was longer so front driveshaft moved back closer to the rear U joint and car was lowered maybe couple of inches. I measured front and rear angles and shimmed the lowering block 1/8" and the difference was amazing. The sub sonic HUMMMMM was gone.

 

While putting a spacer under the truck carrier bearing generally helps this is just generic fix. All trucks are different and deserve to be measured and as close to perfect correction put in.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

Stroffgren I can make adjustments at the transmission and the carrier bearing location if needed.... they are both shimmed.... I did similar to what you said when i built my transmission mount..

 

So why do they sell angled blocks then?

Doesnt that tilt the differential down?

 

This is a subject that I have very little to no knowledge about.... 

 

I'd like to know more now so when I finally do the coilovers in the rear I'll have an idea how to set it up....

 

Thanks ....

 

Cool, so you got that base covered.

 

The shims/blocks have a built in angle and can be installed with the angle to the front or to the rear. I don't do lowered trucks, so I am not sure what other guys with lowered 521's are doing, but maybe you need a block with no angle, less of an angle or take them out and turn them around.

 

Coilovers imply you will be doing a link suspension. Links won't use shims or blocks, but you will have to know about suspension geometry. Google search for "3 link calculator" to find an XLS program to help you with your design. And please don't do a parallel 4 link rear. That's just so unimaginative and you can get far better results with a 3 link or a triangulated 4 link.

 

Here's a front suspension I designed and built for a BJ74 Toyota Land Cruiser a few years ago, so you can see how the calculator works.

 

image.thumb.png.5d2fe869577cd5f4f7fa7341e6d2242b.png

Edited by Stoffregen Motorsports

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Cool, so you got that base covered.

 

The shims/blocks have a built in angle and can be installed with the angle to the front or to the rear. I don't do lowered trucks, so I am not sure what other guys with lowered 521's are doing, but maybe you need a block with no angle, less of an angle or take them out and turn them around.

 

Coilovers imply you will be doing a link suspension. Links won't use shims or blocks, but you will have to know about suspension geometry. Google search for "3 link calculator" to find an XLS program to help you with your design. And please don't do a parallel 4 link rear. That's just so unimaginative and you can get far better results with a 3 link or a triangulated 4 link.

 

Here's a front suspension I designed and built for a BJ74 Toyota Land Cruiser a few years ago, so you can see how the calculator works.

 

image.thumb.png.5d2fe869577cd5f4f7fa7341e6d2242b.png

 

This is my first and only lowered vehicle, I've never messed with any of this before... when I did the blocks I was told they angle down toward the front....

 

As far as for now I'm gonna take some measurements tomorrow and decide the best course of action for the summer with the current setup....

It does feel good with the new u joint but I still feel a little something....

 

And on the coilovers I will be doing the 3 link with the watts link next winter.... I have it waiting for me in the basement...

 

I'll have a look at those calculators...

Thanks...

 

I actually just down loaded an app....

Tremec toolbox..... 

It takes angle measurements with your phone and spits out information....

I'm gonna take my own measurements and compare what I find....

I'll update if the app is any good.... 

 

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This beast of a unit showed up ....

 

20200626-160239.jpg

 

Way bigger than I expected but seems feasible to make something work out of it....

 

I'd like to have it attach to the alternator bracket so It can ride on the top part of the belt.... I'm going to try to work out the tensioner idea while I have an alternator and belt that fits... 

 

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Keep in mind also that the more the belt wraps around the alternator pulley the more it will grip and not slip

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