Greaser2 Posted June 7, 2020 Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 Crash, we have very similar AC systems. Do you know how much freon is needed to fill your system, oz’s? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2020 1 minute ago, Greaser2 said: Crash, we have very similar AC systems. Do you know how much freon is needed to fill your system, oz’s? Your lucky I actually wrote it down this time..... they used 1.5lbs I believe that converts to 24oz... I hope your having a shop do the charging.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 I have been driving the datsun alot lately, so much that ended up putting a new oil filter on because it can never hurt. I'm running royal purple, so the oil is still good. It was removed last year when I had my oil pan issue, I filtered it with paint filters and topped off with fresh oil, it probably has a combined total of 5000 miles , truck is at around 6700 miles now since being back on the road..... Slightly shorter than a stock filter, (clearance for modified motor mounts).. I have plans to change the oil soon and do the remote filter so I can use a larger filter but I need some time to get that setup installed... other things around the house are taking priority right now.. Worse case I'll just change the oil soon and get the remote filter done when I can.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2020 Been trying to clean up and organize things lately.... while I was at it I decided to get the door sills installed today... Used some #8 screws... Driver side I really need to cover that seat.. Passenger 3 out of 4 screws, couldn't get the one that's angled toward the seat.... I think the driverside had the screw broken in the hole from a long time ago.. Thanks goes out to Daniel for hooking me up, he sold them to me a while ago.. glad I could finally get them on the truck.. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 I decided to try to get a few more amps out of my altenator setup.... while its starts out at 14.2, it quickly drops to 13v as things turn on, fuel pump, cooling fans and the a/c or heat blower motor... I also like to always have my lights on so people see me .. Battery rests at 12.5 so battery is still good.... So I picked up a 90amp internally regulated altenator for 1986 nissan maxima... trying to keep the modifications to a minimum.... From oriellys.... Diameter was close enough... The older altenator in the picture is my 50 amp externally regulated altenator .. its exactly the same size and the 60amp internally regulated altenator i'm currently running.... Mounting points are the same.... I will have to swap the pulley.... But its looks like if I swap just the pulley without the external fan it will be where I need it... hopefully that's the only mod I'll need to do.... If clearance becomes an issue I have an idea to add a tensioner onto the alternator bracket if needed.... 2 Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 I would go to a junkyard, and get a OEM but used alternator from a 1986 Nissan Maxima. Keep it as a spare. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 Funny thing is the alternator case said nissan on it... I know that doesnt mean to much since it's a remanufactured unit.... Any how ran into my first issue.... Wasnt expecting the v pulley be 2 piece and they have a square edge for anti rotation.... the serpentine one was tight to remove, close tolerances.. . I'm thinking about just rounding out the pulley hole so I can assemble it and check spacing... I was going to grind some flat on the altenator shaft but didnt wanna ruin it yet.... I still have a chance to return it... If it all lines up I was going to take the pulley off the one in the truck that would still have the anti rotation edges.... Unfortunately I dont have a bunch of spares to play with.... I'm thinking a flat on the altenator shaft is the better way to final assemble it.... I also need a spacer.. By my math it needs to be .250 thick right now the thinner of the 2 is .350.. Gonna bring to work tomorrow and thin in down and take about .050 off the diameter... close fit to the case also.... Right now I'm only sacrificing an old altenator... 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 If I want more amps out of my alternator my first stop is my local repair shop Gen-Star Electric. I ask them what the bump limit is on my particular alternator and if it is high enough I have them gothrough thee Alternator and do the maximum bump. If it is not enough amps then they suggest another alternator and the maximum they can safely bump that up. Eter way when I pick up my alternator it puts out the amps I need and It is not a Chinese or Mexico alternator. 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 (edited) You can get a one piece pulley off a...KA D21? VG D21? I can't remember which. The stock 2-piece 521 pulley sucks when the amperage goes up and the alternator becomes more difficult to turn. edit: Looks like just any D21 might have the single V pulley. Maybe just exchange the maxima alt for a D21 alt... Edited June 21, 2020 by thisismatt 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 7 minutes ago, Charlie69 said: If I want more amps out of my alternator my first stop is my local repair shop Gen-Star Electric. I ask them what the bump limit is on my particular alternator and if it is high enough I have them gothrough thee Alternator and do the maximum bump. If it is not enough amps then they suggest another alternator and the maximum they can safely bump that up. Eter way when I pick up my alternator it puts out the amps I need and It is not a Chinese or Mexico alternator. I miss shops like that.... getting harder to find locals like that..... Shops cant compete with the cheap junk people are willing to buy.... funny thing is you end up spending more time and labor in the end dealing with the junk.... 1 minute ago, thisismatt said: You can get a one piece pulley off a...KA D21? VG D21? I can't remember which. The stock 2-piece 521 pulley sucks when the amperage goes up and the alternator becomes more difficult to turn. This is one of the reasons I didn't wanna start down this rabbit hole, I was trying to keep the buying down to a minimum, but the core is costing me 40, which I'm cannabaizing.. So if I can give them my old altenator and get the 40 core money back for a pulley that would work.. guess I'll look it up and see what I can find.... I want to order a plug anyhow.... Thanks.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 I agree people are cheap I buy used stuff as cheap as I can because I do not know what I am buying. When it comes to automotive electrics if I have the time I will take it to Gen-Star and I know that when I get it back it is quality and will perform for years. I have had one go back from Gen-Star since the seventies and it was a rebuilt Saturn alternator that would charge sometimes and sometimes not. Turned out the new voltage regulator was bad they fixed it and refunded my money.. 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 You can get the alternator pigtail on ebay for <$7 shipped 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 8 minutes ago, thisismatt said: You can get the alternator pigtail on ebay for <$7 shipped Yup I found that.... looks like the ka d21 is the v pulley.... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 Through '88 had a V pulley then switched to the wider serpentine on the trucks. The KAs in the 240zx were all serpentine. I had one ('89 S13) in my '74. The stock V pulley fit right on but needed a spacer or the fan rubbed. If the battery was low on start up the belt would screech. My 710 has a 2002 Altima 100 amp. The stock pulley fit right on, but with a washer spacer the stock nut (which has a shoulder) isn't really on enough threads. I bought another nut tightened as much as I dared and then welded a tack in the threads so it can't spin off. The power wire was thicker than my battery cable at the time. Probably a tight fit on a truck 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 21, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 Its definitely gonna be tight, I do have a tensioner idea brewing just incase.... I know it will physically fit but if I can tension it properly I'm still not sure yet.... 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted June 21, 2020 Report Share Posted June 21, 2020 Oreilly's and rockauto show V pulleys on the trucks even past 94 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 Finding just the pulley was a little tricky but I think I found it.... it was more about the alternator than the vehicle... Also ordered the wiring plug too.... same for the d21 with the KA as the earlier maxima ... Deciding now on what parts to order for a tensioner system.... I think it would be better especially with the clearance to the idler arm.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 So I found 3 tensioners that might work.... I was going to try to use an auto tensioning type but that seems like a bigger pain.... my though is to make something stationary that would bolt on to the alternator brackets and would take up most of the slack... then tension it slightly the normal way.... 1) has a v pulley and would have to run under the belt... not too bad... 2) would go above the belt... no idea about what that bolt would do for adjusting... I'd probably make that bracket flat for what I want to do. 3) is the one I like the most... I'll have to cut it up to fit but has more metal to attach to a mounting point... Any opinions? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 One thing I noticed now when I'm am actually running my a/c is that the truck seems to be running a little warmer than normal around town.... My truck has always ran just a bit over the center mark.... even on a hot day... While running the a/c and driving on the highway it seems normal, maybe just a little warmer.... When I get off the highway its only about a 5 or 6 minute drive to my house doing 30 mph.... when I got home the needle was here..... I have to manually unlock and open my garage... I left the truck running , with the a/c on while I did that and for a minute while I was looking for my IR gun... of course the batteries died after one reading, so not to sure its accuracy.. Any how temp gun read 195 at the thermostat housing.. And needle was here by the time I backed in an parked.... I know the condenser is sheading hot air which is being blown across the radiator... from what I've read a slight increase in temperature is normal.... I have thought about adding a small pusher fan to the condenser or possibly upgrading my current fans if it would help.... Current setup is Dual 10" fans with a 3row aluminum radiator.... Should I be concerned? Is it getting too hot? What would be too hot? Any thoughts? 3 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 Poking around in the garage and apparently I have dual 7" fans.... Radiator area is 20 x 10 so I'm gonna see if I can find some better fans.... No room for a pusher fan either.... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 For added reference... This was after driving to work this morning... about 80 out and not running the a/c. Temp gun reading at the thermostat housing was 185.... 3 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 (edited) Your first pic looks to be about the same as the gauge in my truck recently, and I have a brand new stock temperature thermostat in it. It never sits right at the line unless it's cold out. Some cars run 210-220 all day long without problems, so I think you have plenty of margin. Edited June 23, 2020 by mainer311 4 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 1 minute ago, mainer311 said: Your first pic looks to be about the same as the gauge in my truck recently, and I have a brand new stock temperature thermostat in it. It never sits right at the line unless it's cold out. Good to know.... thanks.... I'm leaning towards upgrading one of my fans to a 9" with a higher cfm, and it would cover that side of the radiator more.... I would do both but clearance to the water pump is tight.... Atleast I can be confident I'm not over heating.... I'm gonna check the temperature when I get home.... I'm expecting a 195 reading which I guess is acceptable .... if I can drop that a little while idling around town I'd be happy.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 23, 2020 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 Since I'm impatient and want all the parts here when I start messing with the alternator I ordered the 3rd tensioner. Should be the best for what I want to try to do.... Also ordered a 9" fan.... cant hurt.... 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 4 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: Since I'm impatient and want all the parts here when I start messing with the alternator I ordered the 3rd tensioner. Should be the best for what I want to try to do.... Also ordered a 9" fan.... cant hurt.... Haha you and me both but I am learning to be patient with my Datsun. Hell its been running so well for so long that when i got in it yesterday (after just getting home in it) and it wouldn't start I go out, popped the hood, checked the battery cables and noticed that the negative terminal was loose. Easy fix and before I would have been heated that it wouldn't start but not anymore. A new me so to speak. Quote Link to comment
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