Crashtd420 Posted July 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 Next is getting the glass in.... all I have left is getting the windows set in their sash and I can install it.... Hopefully I can get that done before the oil change comes up and distracts me. I wanna try and fix my oil leak when I do... So I know it's been talked about before but the back corner of my oil pan leaks.... I've done the gasket once and I still have it.... What's the best way to seal the oil pan? 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 28, 2018 Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 Take a small hammer a punch and straighten the pan. Be gentle and go easy. I straighten my pans before I install them. They get distorted from over tightening. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted July 28, 2018 Report Share Posted July 28, 2018 I use a 8 oz small ball peen hammer, and hold the ball end on the bolt hole. Then I violate safety rules, and hit the other end of the ball peen hammer with a slightly bigger hammer, but not very hard. Just enough to remove the distortion on the bolt holes caused by the last time the oil pan was installed. Nissan, to the best of my knowledge still sells individual gaskets for L-engines, including the oil pan gasket. Is is a nice composite gasket, not a cork one. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 I've taken some pans off that have L shaped straps that spread the clamping pressure. The L series has a U shape, sort of like this around the back of the oil pan. It's shown on all L series engines except the 521..... part number 11124-U0100 I'm sure I have two that are L shaped like this around the rear of the pan... L ⅃ I thought this was a pretty good idea. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 I'll take all that into consideration... I actually tightened that back corner bolt and seems to have helped..... I'll check the pan for flatness and try to get the better gasket when I do the oil change.... I also seemed to have a small drip coming from the rear diff... i was able to tighten the drain bolt a little more and that stopped leaking... but now it seems the passenger side axle seal is leaking..... gotta luv it... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 On a positive note I got the roll up windows read to install..... I have one wing window done, not 100% satisfied with the glass install, but that was the side with a issue... I'll see how I do with the passenger side.... Even if not perfect I can get installed and deal with the glass again later.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 I also realized I missed something with the miss fire issue..... while the plugs wires and coil made a difference and will help the performance of the engine, they were not the problem.... i drove to work this morning and it happened again.... Well you can see in the pic a dark line where the rotor passes by.... I kind of mistook that as being ok as if it was something under the copper... I know the rotor makes a mark as it passes by but apparently not like that..... Even some of the plastic was chipping away, dont know if that matters or not.. So after work I tried something... I lifted up on the rotor ever so slightly... my though was it would make contact just above the mark and sure enough... drove home with no miss fire... The distributor uses a beru vk106.. I was able to cross reference to a cap sold at O'Reilly and pickup up a cheap replacement for now.... gonna take it to work tomorrow, really hoping the cap was the issue the whole time..... Still trying to figure out what rotor they use, 123 ignition doesnt seem to give up a part number for the rotor..... they want $25 for the rotor, and $65 for a cap and rotor set.... seems a bit high because I cant find the beru cap for 10 or 15... So while I try to find the best cap and rotor to use can anyone tell me what causes that mark in the cap after only 1200 miles? I would think it would last a bit longer than that.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 I buy my cap and rotors as a set that way I know they are compatible parts. I try to stay with a major American brand unless there are Japanese made parts available. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 29, 2018 Report Share Posted July 29, 2018 The mark is just arcing. If you drove in 4th gear for the entire 1,200 miles that's 2,100,000 sparks.... minimum. Those marks are normal. The rotor tip also burns. What is this 'miss' you mention Is it constant? Only at idle or any time? If anytime is it under load or cruising along? Does it do it when warming up or after warmed up? 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted July 30, 2018 Report Share Posted July 30, 2018 Weird that the plastic seems to be getting broken in that area. Is it possible that the cap is slightly off center and the rotor keeps knocking into it? For the stock dizzy, I buy Nissan cap and rotor sets from a forklift motor. Doesn’t help if the 123 is some odd sized cap. 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted July 30, 2018 Report Share Posted July 30, 2018 Sounds like a bad distributor bushing. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 30, 2018 Report Share Posted July 30, 2018 This isn't stock it's an after market distributor isn't it? I can't speak for the quality or fit maybe it was made broken like that. Check the rotor isn't damaged. Take the cap off and inspect closely for a crack. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 30, 2018 Report Share Posted July 30, 2018 Check for carbon tracking. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2018 14 hours ago, datzenmike said: The mark is just arcing. If you drove in 4th gear for the entire 1,200 miles that's 2,100,000 sparks.... minimum. Those marks are normal. The rotor tip also burns. What is this 'miss' you mention Is it constant? Only at idle or any time? If anytime is it under load or cruising along? Does it do it when warming up or after warmed up? I'll start here with my responses... the miss was very random.... sometimes I could drive to work with no miss then going home it would happen.... it only started happening a little over a weekend ago.... Right now I'm hoping the new cap fixed it... the ride into work went good... engine definately seemed crisper.... I'll see how she does on the ride home.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2018 11 hours ago, mainer311 said: Weird that the plastic seems to be getting broken in that area. Is it possible that the cap is slightly off center and the rotor keeps knocking into it? For the stock dizzy, I buy Nissan cap and rotor sets from a forklift motor. Doesn’t help if the 123 is some odd sized cap. I dont think so because the marks are consistent on all 4 posts... and nothing was wrong with the rotor... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2018 11 hours ago, Doctor510 said: Sounds like a bad distributor bushing. I dont believe this to be true.... the machine work on the distributor was impressive.... 9 hours ago, datzenmike said: This isn't stock it's an after market distributor isn't it? I can't speak for the quality or fit maybe it was made broken like that. Check the rotor isn't damaged. Take the cap off and inspect closely for a crack. Now the cap and rotor quality definately questionable.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2018 8 hours ago, Charlie69 said: Check for carbon tracking. What is that? And as far as what brand of cap, I have figured out the cap is used on older vw and Audi's.... so I can probably get one from the dealer.. just need to figure out the rotor... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 30, 2018 Report Share Posted July 30, 2018 Driving to work would be cooler out than driving home. Crappy Massivetwoshits gas?... Could be random ping? Correct plug heat range? RPR6ES? I forget what the L16? takes. Try turning the timing retard a degree or two? (this costs nothing to try) 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted July 30, 2018 Report Share Posted July 30, 2018 1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said: I dont believe this to be true.... the machine work on the distributor was impressive.... Now the cap and rotor quality definately questionable.... What machine work was done to the distributor? Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 30, 2018 Report Share Posted July 30, 2018 carbon tracking a source for missfire. https://www.motorstate.com/thepath.htm Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2018 3 hours ago, Charlie69 said: carbon tracking a source for missfire. https://www.motorstate.com/thepath.htm Thanks charlie.... I'll give that a good read... and take another look at my cap.... so far today no miss fire... drove 22 miles to work and then 22 miles back home... also did another 20 miles or so going to lunch.... Went a small joy ride to see how far my speedo was off.... over 10 miles my odometer tells me I went 10.85.... hoping my budget will let me order that ratio adapter later..... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2018 4 hours ago, Doctor510 said: What machine work was done to the distributor? I have an aftermarket distributor manufactured by a company 123 ignition... they machine the bodies themself, and make the internals... Everything is snug and tight .. no slop any where..... but apparently source out the cap and rotor.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 31, 2018 Report Share Posted July 31, 2018 You might ask 123 what the part number is on the cap and rotor and also ask if the numbers cross reference to some common part that you can buy at most auto parts places. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 31, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2018 1 hour ago, Charlie69 said: You might ask 123 what the part number is on the cap and rotor and also ask if the numbers cross reference to some common part that you can buy at most auto parts places. I was able to figure out the cap, it's the rotor that has no info.... I might have to send them an email... the guy ed is really good to deal with..... I would prefer to be able to just stop an pick something up... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted August 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2018 So a little while ago the oil pressure gauge I installed failed.... I broke the terminal on the sender and that made the gauge extremely unhappy. ( still have the factory idiot light) The oil and the volt gauge were both white analog faces, while the rpm and air/fuel had blacked out faces.... so I decided to get a digital oil and volt gauge to match.... Well as I'm putting the gauges together I noticed something.... so I powered up the gauges and saw this..... Are you kidding me.... 1 Quote Link to comment
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