Crashtd420 Posted November 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 Oh ya that dizzy is from a company called 123 ignition.. I went this route because of the high compression and having a side draft carb setup... for most engines it's probably over kill... 2 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 I have that same grind Cam(new) Believe me get duals otherwise your not going to be impressed like to see how that distributor mounts and get the plate right to time it. you must be rich. to build a L16 when a L20 with L18 flattops and a closed chamber head get close to super high comp also. But I like people spending money on L motors!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 3 Quote Link to comment
Rhino13 Posted November 17, 2016 Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 I agree with hainz, its awesome to see someone go all out on a L series. I like them so much I put an L series in my 84 720 that came with the Z series. Didn't spend nearly as much when building it, but its a 2.2 and it gets it sooo much more than the 2.4 Z series did. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2016 Not not rich.. things got out of hand and i wasn't willing to turn back it really wasn't my intention to build the motor this way. Damn matching numbers.. and the dizzy is great they supply a custom plate to hold it down I believe you put it in like any other dizzy. number one cylinder to top dead, rotor points what ever way it ahould then you rotate the dizzy till some indicator light comes on and lock it down.... the software takes over after that... And I hope I don't need the duals but I may have to... the one I got came right from weber overseas.. they preset it to my engine specs so I am hopefull that one will do.. thanks for the comments and encouragement. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 18, 2016 Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 I wish I had known about the pistons before you put it together. I could have guided you through modifying the domes. The beauty of pop ups, is that they are easy to modify without too much worry of creating too thin a dome. There's a lot of meat there to play with. I've cut them on lathes, on mills, cut flat surfaces in the tops, cut rings around the back of the dome for head clearance, etc. Sometimes it's easier to modify the piston than it is to modify the head. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 I can definitely agree with that statement. I already had everything balanced before I realized my situation so I didn't wanna mess with it... the head wasn't bad just took me a long time because I was being extremely careful... all good ... I was happy with the results... I am 100% sure clearance will not be a problem now.... I do work in a machine shop so I have an understanding of tolerances and clearance. But what I work on weight upwards of 3000 to 5000 pounds and I hold .001 tolerances.... but engines are completely different from what I do. I was definitely outside my comfort zone... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 18, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 18, 2016 So stoffregen now that you got i my head a bit what's your biggest concern about the engine build? Or is this just a hindsight thing... I knew I should have joined here sooner... definitely a solid group of people here keeping Datsun alive... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Got the brake lines and fuel lines and power ran under the cab.. yes I am doing a battery relocation where the spare tire was... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Put the cab on last night too... my son was so excited he wouldn't stop photo bombing the pic plus hard to get a wide enough angle for a real good pic... gonna roll it outside Sunday to do a little clean up before I continue... try to get a better shot. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 And I got in trouble.. hour old pajamas with fresh grease stains... sorry mom. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2016 Thanks charlie69 for all the likes... the encouragement here is great... 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted November 20, 2016 Report Share Posted November 20, 2016 You are welcome. It is great to see you with your son working on your 521. Keep up the good work. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 So stoffregen now that you got i my head a bit what's your biggest concern about the engine build? Or is this just a hindsight thing... I knew I should have joined here sooner... definitely a solid group of people here keeping Datsun alive... No major concern. Just would have been a lot less work to massage the pistons. Also, bringing the weight of the piston down would have been beneficial, and they're pretty easy to re-balance once you do. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 OK cool.... ya hindsights a bitch. ... I did spend many nights grinding fitting measuring repeat.... I only get an hour or so after work to work in the garage.... I think I spend more time checking than grinding.... thanks... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 So I can't seem to find a clear answer about torquing the upper link screw bushings... I mocked everything up and was gonna torque everything once I went to set the ride high... didn't realize it needs 175ft.lbs . Can i torque it now or was i suppose to torque it in a vise first before before it's installed on the frame? 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 175 pounds?????????? No way 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 That's what I thought.... They just say take it to the dealer... I assume not may people have a torque wrench to handle that mine maxes at 150.... had to borrow a 250ft.lb one. From work... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 And I just checked again and top of the list of torque specs say ft.lb... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Depending on the type of bushing, it may need to be on the ground under its own weight before you tighten it otherwise it will bind and act as a spring. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 That's what I was thinking.... one thing I read was if lowering to loosen and torque at ride height.... but that was only said about that bushing above the kingpin... but I figured it was a good idea to tighten everything at ride height.... I guess my biggest concern is putting stress on the two bolts that hold the upper link spindle to the frame... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 You could most certainly torque those frame mounting bolts before you finish the assembly. They are designed to be adjustable though so hopefully you have the same amount of shims going back in as you took out. If you're making ride height changes, you're going to need to adjust the shims anyway. Stress? Think of what kind of abuse they see during normal operation. What you do with the torque wrench is of no consequence. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 So I just wanna clarify. Yes I plan on torquing the bolts to the frame first. The stress I was concerned about would be to those bolts while I am tightening the screw bushings. But what you said should remain true the about the stress it's under while driving. And I do not have the shims in yet I am adjusting the ride height... I did a 2" block in the rear so I have to set the front which is what I am up to now. I will deal with the alignment next... thanks 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 So I think I figured out why the books say to torque in a vice.. with out the cab on there's plenty of room but with the cab there is not.... inner fender well prevents access so I have to torque it from the engine bay.... since the only thing in my engine bay is the engine I have the room but if it was a complete truck I question the ability to get a wrench where you need to... Driver side... now look at your own 521 and see if you could get to the screw bushings... so to me it makes sense now. 1 Quote Link to comment
mikec4193 Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 Hey Crashtd420 What is the thread on those grease fittings on the bushing caps?...All I have on Jerry Hicks looks like just a hex head screw cap...didn't even know that it was grease-able part.... MikeC 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 Ya that's definitely something you wanna grease.... the lower fulcrum pin screw bushings had them too.... I will verify what fits when I get home... if I remember right the book says to remove plug install grease fitting grease then reinstall plug but all I ever had in mine were grease fittings.... 1 Quote Link to comment
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