wayno Posted November 20, 2017 Report Share Posted November 20, 2017 Fact is you can use a non-vented gas cap with that vent there. You could also use the vent as a return line if you ever went that route. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 For some reason my focus he been on the back half of the truck.. Got the reverse switch working gas gauge works, and all the wiring heading to then rear of the vehicle working... just need to final wire the lights..... First was license plate frame and light. Then I mounted fog lights as reverse lights on the back frame cross bar... Then the tail light brake lights... 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 Any guesses where the tail lights are from? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 Well no guesses..... 93 - 95 suzuki gsxr 750... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 27, 2017 Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 I was going to guess ATV tail lights. Looks good. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted November 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 I was working in a motorcycle salvage yard when I first got the datsun.... Even the plate light I used is from a motorcycle... I decided to reuse them. I had them attached to the flat bed and they worked so why not.... I have money i need to spend right now on things like seatbelts and other missing parts to get it on the road.. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2017 Well it's been a while since I posted... Nothing to really update.... Still working on the fenders and doors .. also been working on finishing up the electrical. So when the warmer weather comes all I will have to do is the finish paint and some final assembly..... On to my question.... So right now I have the heater bypassed so I could get the motor running.... so now I wanna get the heat functioning in the cab.. problem is the valve on my heater core was junk.... radiator shop 12 years ago soldered a penny in the opening to atleast keep the coolant flowing, but I can't shut the coolant flow off.... This is fine for the colder days and for mornings when I need the defroster.. but I was hoping to install a shut off valve... I was going with something like this... Maybe something electric if I can find something but that's not my concern... My concern is where to install it.... between the head and heater core seems tight so I was hoping I could get a way with installing it between the heater core and the water pump inlet.... Will that work? Does it matter as long as you stop the flow? 1 Quote Link to comment
thisismatt Posted December 18, 2017 Report Share Posted December 18, 2017 Well it's been a while since I posted... Nothing to really update.... Still working on the fenders and doors .. also been working on finishing up the electrical. So when the warmer weather comes all I will have to do is the finish paint and some final assembly..... On to my question.... So right now I have the heater bypassed so I could get the motor running.... so now I wanna get the heat functioning in the cab.. problem is the valve on my heater core was junk.... radiator shop 12 years ago soldered a penny in the opening to atleast keep the coolant flowing, but I can't shut the coolant flow off.... This is fine for the colder days and for mornings when I need the defroster.. but I was hoping to install a shut off valve... I was going with something like this... Maybe something electric if I can find something but that's not my concern... My concern is where to install it.... between the head and heater core seems tight so I was hoping I could get a way with installing it between the heater core and the water pump inlet.... Will that work? Does it matter as long as you stop the flow? Doesn't matter which side, other than before gives you a shutoff in case the heater core springs a leak. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2017 That's kind of what I thought..... I get putting it before the heater core makes more sense.... Been exploring options for space and function... Worse case I can install the control valve between the core and pump and install a manual shutoff under the hood as a back up if the heater core fails.... Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 The thing about this is it doesn't matter where the valve is as when pressure builds in the system it will still leak as the system has pressure unless you have removed the seal on the end of the radiator cap and installed a reservoir, then you will not have pressure in the coolant system, so it will leak less if at all, but it would not likely leak with the valve open as there would be no pressure. I have my valve open 365 days a year and the heater fan is on most of that also, in the winter I need the heat for the defroster, in the summer I leave it on to help cool the coolant what little it does cool it. If it is really hot outside I open the door above the heater duct and let the outside air flow in, I cannot even tell the heater is on when I do that, I also have a sliding rear window, when I open that the fresh air in the cab really starts to flow. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 I'm lucky to have the rear slider too... I wasn't sure if I would feel the heater or not even if the fan wasn't blowing... Even though I won't be driving mine in the winter months I do plan on daily driving it as much as possible, and that means I need the defrost and some heat for the chilly mornings... Maybe I'll just hook it up and see what it's like.... I can always install a cutoff later.... Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 One of the big bitches about the 521 is the heater/defroster, it really doesn't work that great compared to say a 720, it is what it is, it works good enough for me, and if it is really bad(fogged up), I just use the squeegee I have on the inside of the windshield till the defroster starts working better. If your heater core leaks just find someone on here to sell you a good one with a valve, dat521gatherer wrote a how too in one of his threads about rebuilding the valve(getting it apart). Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 That is another rubber piece I have thought Clauss Studios might possibly make someday if anyone made the effort to send him a good sample, I bet that he could sell quite a few of them unlike the wiper motor seal which would not sell well in my opinion. I'd buy that. Or if someone could 3D print one. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 One of the big bitches about the 521 is the heater/defroster, it really doesn't work that great compared to say a 720, it is what it is, it works good enough for me, and if it is really bad(fogged up), I just use the squeegee I have on the inside of the windshield till the defroster starts working better. If your heater core leaks just find someone on here to sell you a good one with a valve, dat521gatherer wrote a how too in one of his threads about rebuilding the valve(getting it apart). My heater core is actually in real good shape, except for that fact that it has no control valve, it's just free flowing.. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 My heater core is actually in real good shape, except for that fact that it has no control valve, it's just free flowing.. As said, the gatherer made a how to about fixing it. I think HOGIE also did a good write-up in one of his 521 threads. The heater box is one of my next projects too. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 There is no fixing my control knob.... I broke it years ago... guts were pulled and hole was solder closed with a penny so i would have heat... it worked but no shutoff... 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 It don't need to have a valve to stop heat from getting in the interior, there are 2 levers under the radio on the bottom of the dash, I believe one just sets the lever for closed and turn the fan off, no more heat. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 It don't need to have a valve to stop heat from getting in the interior, there are 2 levers under the radio on the bottom of the dash, I believe one just sets the lever for closed and turn the fan off, no more heat. After all this discussion that kind what I was thinking.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 In Phoenix we want to stop the flow of hot water into the heater core. Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 In Phoenix we want to stop the flow of hot water into the heater core. Why? Doesn't it help cool the engine in the summer? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 When I first had the truck in cali, the flow knob was frozen solid.... didn't really care because who needs heat in southern cali..... Different story up here in mass.... that's when I proceeded to break it..... So basically I am stuck with a constantly flowing heater core..... So I guess it's all relative to what type of weather I plan on driving in.... I would rather do nothing and keep it disconnected for now but I know I'll need something for when I start driving it.... I guess I'll keep searching for a solution because the summer months get hot and muggy up here... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 Why? Doesn't it help cool the engine in the summer? I'm assuming they just don't want the extra heat in the cab.... never had mine working in the summer months so I don't know one way or the other.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted December 19, 2017 Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 The OEM heater valves aren't that hard to repair. If you still have it, try squirting it with some WD40 and let it sit for a while. If it starts to move, squirt it again to help lube the sealing ring. Work it until it moves freely and then pressurize it. I have done this many times. I have had them apart too, but haven't been 100% comfortable with the reassembled product. Toyota has about 20 applications that would work, also Ford Bronco. Google Ford Bronco generic heater valve and see for yourself. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2017 Stroffregen I think you missed where i said it has a penny welded or soldered into where the valve should go..... the valve has been gone now for over 12 yrs so there is no fixing it at all..... I have seen a Toyota and a Honda one that might work.... I'll look at some Ford ones... We have a pic and pull yard I though I might wander through.... unfortunately they keep nothing really old.... I think 90s and up is it. 1 Quote Link to comment
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