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Crashtd420

A 521 in Massachusetts

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Finally got the wheels on the ground.. preparing to put the cab back on next weekend.

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Hey Crashtd420

 

Do I see disc brakes on the front of your ride??? What did you use for parts for this conversion?....my Jerry Hicks truck is still sporting stock drums front and rear...

 

mikeC

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Ya I used beebani's hardbody conversion.. i don't have the calipers yet. Also i plan on Using a willwood master and proportioning valve... and running drums in the rear still..

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I'm pretty sure the smallest Wilwood master is a 1" bore. Too big for those manual Datsun brakes. You won't have any leverage.

 

 

Use a stock 510 master for good pedal feel.

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Thanks for the input. Ya i was planing on the 1". So i take it bigger is not always better. And just to make sure i am doing disc up front and keeping drums in the rear. what year 510 were you thinking? I just looked and beebani's kit says any 280z. a 75 looks correct and has a 7/8 bore and are easily available at auto parts stores... and about half the price of willwood.. should I still run the proportioning valve.....

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The smaller the master, the more leverage you have which means more pedal feel. This can work against you though if the master bore is too small, you will bottom the pedal on the floor before the brakes lock up.

 

I would try the 510 master first. A 280Z master was designed to be used with a power brake booster while the 510's had manual brakes. A lot of people prefer the firmer pedal in a go-fast car, but in the truck, I think you'd probably be happier with the smaller bore.

 

Any 68-73 510 master should work. You may have to grind out the hole in the firewall a 1/16" or so, but no big deal, right?

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If it was a big deal I shouldn't own a Datsun right. Whatever it takes to keep them rolling .and That's probably the best and simplest explanation I've read thanks...

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So right now I am preparing to mount the cab back on the frame, should have pics after this weekend... for now i figured I'd post my motor build next... and before I do let me say this, yes I built my l16 and yes it cost more than a motor swap and probably will still only be around 100hp ( hoping I make a little more but won't know till she hits the dyno.) The reason i build my l16 is because i like having all matching numbers and no body really builds them for more power. So please be nice because for me there is no going backwards from here...

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So I will skip the boring stuff and get to it... best book ever is the " how to modify your Datsun engine" I followed most of it for my block prep. I had it bored to 84 mm from 83mm and installed a wiseco piston kit on new h-beam connecting rods.

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After I installed the first one I almost fell over... I guess I missed when this was a domed piston..

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The entire bottom end was balanced from the front pulley to the clutch. I also used arp studs from an l20b motor for the bottom end and for the head. Rods also had arp studs...

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Are you actually going to run those pistons in a street driven vehicle? Have you done any engine math to figure out the compression ratio?

 

I would also massage the tops of the pistons to A- make sure they fit in the combustion chamber, and B- to knock off the sharp edges which inhibit flow and can cause detonation.

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Oh ya.. trust me i scratched my head for a couple days about what to do.. don't worry the story gets worse with my head choice.... a got a w53 head with the peanut chamber. Even more compression.. I was getting to this part..... when I was putting all the pieces and parts together I calculated the Pistons as dished. I had the + and - wrong on the calculator. I thought i would be around 9.5 to 1... well that wasnt the case. It was more like 11 to 1. at this point I decided to say f@#% it and build what i bought. I got the compression ration down to 10.7 to 1. Oops... Anyhow ya I did chamfered everything and I had to open the combustion chamber of the head to let the piston cycle properly... very tedious... I also had to space and index the spark plugs to clear... I layed back the plug area too... and I was able to measure my cc's to within .01 of a ml of each other... did that through weights and math. 1cc= 1ml = 1 gram.... I did all that with no head gasket on to guarantee I had at least the .059 of the head gasket for clearance.

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Couple other notes the valve cover I had came with an oil spray bar... and the cam was reground by Shneider Cam... they also supplied new springs keepers and lash pads.. also got new nissan rocker arms..

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And oddly I am doing a single 40dcoe on a lynx intake.... had the same 32mm runners as the head... hoping it will be enough.

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I have a dyno shop that's gonna help me break in the motor properly... they have a guy who I great at tuning a weber. I did do headers also more for looks... but my exhaust manifold was really ruff either was....

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So here comes the cherry on top.... I am sure you wondering about a distributor. I know I am gonna be on the border of running 93 octane... the Pistons are actually designed to prevent detonation but I believe timing is going to be the key.... so I opened my wallet for this one..

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This is tuned via Bluetooth. .. complete control of the advance curve and I don't have to worry about not having a vacuum advance with the side draft weber.

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Completely digital. . No springs or weights. Yes it on an app. You set the tune, It monitors the distributor. You can adjust on the road and it can even be an alarm.. locks out the distributor. ..

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This is the most excited I've ever been for an L16! This thing is going to be badass!

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Thanks... it will either be bad ass or an epic fail..... either way I'll post the video.... hopefully I will be firing it up in a few weeks.... cab goes on this weekend and I just need to get power and fuel. Just the basics to get the motor running....

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