HOGIE Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 Did you get that driver side front brake done?I finally went down to Pacific Rubber and had the front brake lines made to the tune of $43. I have to pull the rear brake hose and junction box and have that made still but I'm ready to get things moving again. Trying to wait for a warmer day isn't a good plan. I won't get shit done that way Now I have to get that screw that holds the drum to the hub out so I can dig into driver side brake clean up. Wheels cylinder rebuild, new return springs, new adjuster, inspect scruff and reinstall shoes and drum, install both front rubber lines. Then install new brake master. I'll be doing that tomorrow. Once that's done I can move to the rear brakes. Also another goal for this weekend is drop the fuel tank. I've gotta get this done This is how nice the 520 fuel tanks I just cleaned turned out 1 Quote Link to comment
abbylind Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 Wow what did you use to get it that tidy? 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 Acid bath I'm guessing 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 For the screw that holds the drum, use a large #1 phillips screwdriver and hammer it in. Snap-on screwdrivers have a hex near the handle that you can turn the screwdriver with a wrench. That comes in real handy with things like that brake drum screw. If the head of the screw starts to get buggered, you can peen it back into shape with the back of a ball peen hammer and try again. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 Wow what did you use to get it that tidy? Acid bath I'm guessing Hot tank, then acid bath Hot tank strips paint and kills petroleum, acid neutralizes base chemical ( hot tank) and kills rust 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 For the screw that holds the drum, use a large #1 phillips screwdriver and hammer it in. Snap-on screwdrivers have a hex near the handle that you can turn the screwdriver with a wrench. That comes in real handy with things like that brake drum screw. If the head of the screw starts to get buggered, you can peen it back into shape with the back of a ball peen hammer and try again. Last time I went after the screw I hammered on the end of a screw driver trying to turn it at the same time. Didn't budge. I realized at the time that if I tore it all apart I wouldn't be able to get everything back together in the time allowed. The truck has hanging half way out the garage door so I think it sprayed it with PB and slapped the wheel back on I've never tried the ball peen hammer trick to reshape a screw head. Thanks for the heads up 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 Do impact screw drivers not work for this application? 2 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 An impact screw driver would be ideal, but I don't have one. I was trying to accomplish the same function cave man style 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 Believe it or not, I don't even have an impact driver. Let it soak for a while and revisit it with the large screwdriver and hammer. If that doesn't work, try heating the head of the screw with a torch, until it smokes, then let it cool and try again. I spray with WD40 while it's cooling, which helps pull the liquid into the threads. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 I've got an impact driver if you don't get to it before I see you. 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 I use my impact tool set made by Husky(part# 47200) that is like the link on Ebay below. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-New-in-Package-CRAFTSMAN-6-Piece-Hand-Impact-Tool-Set-947641-USA-Husky-Set-/122281076194?hash=item1c788525e2:g:~AQAAOSwnHZYXILX The first drum I removed on my 1966 Datsun 520 was so rusted that one could not even see the screws, I pounded on that drum so hard for so long trying to get it off that I eventually broke the drum itself, that is when I noticed the screws as it broke into the screw hole. You can always just take a drill with larger drill bit and drill the head of the screw off if it gets so buggered up that nothing can be done with it anymore, then grind the stub off smooth, I don't even use the screws anymore. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 Yah, I don't have a torch either. I should probably stay away from trying to cave man that one Okay, no more Ratsun'ing for now and time for some wrenching. 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 It's only $12 for one at oreilly. It isn't the world's most amazing tool by any means, but they work well enough for the average guy. 2 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 I got that screw out super easy. Thanks for all your suggestion guy. You guys are the best help I never bought. Here are the new rubber front brake lines next to the old one. It may have been time for new a while ago 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 Looks like quality work on those lines! Not exactly cheap, but no other options if you wanted to keep it original. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 Yes. Not cheap but I'm okay with it. Went right in I have an issue but I'm pretty sure how I'm going to handle it. I installed new adjuster and wheel cylinder to drivers front. Scuffed the shoe and drum and reinstalled. I tried to rotate the hub/drum and it was dragging. Could hear it was coming from the top somewhere. I screwed it down with the alignment screws. It was nearly seized but budged a bit. Pulled the drum and looked for a rub mark. I found it was rubbing on the wheel cylinder. You an see it on the lower corner of the pentagon shaped part that sticks out towards the drum. I looked at the old wheel cylinders and on the new this pentagon tab sticks out probably 1/8" farther I think I can just file it down a bit 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 Are you sure the wheel cylinder is seating in the backing plate properly? It looks like it's rubbing on the boot too, or is that anti seize? 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 In pretty sure what your seeing on the boot is anti-seize. I'll give it a little tappa-tappa and see if that works 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 It should not hit at all, I would say you received the wrong part. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 It should not hit at all, I would say you received the wrong part.Well yes and no. I have the invoice right here in front of me. I ordered (2) Centric 134.42320 Front wheel cylinders. This part is listed for the 520, and 521. Was told they are the same What I received is (2) Dorman UW37209( package #) or W37209 (rockauto listed #). Also listed for 520 and 521 The Dorman parts are actually listed at about $5 more than the Centric parts so I'm okay with these parts as long as I can figure out this little dilemma. I already installed the new wheel cylinder on the passenger side and have had no such issue. It's either a defect, or there is something simple I'm overlooking. I'm going to inspect more tomorrow by pulling the passenger side whheel off again and compare, and maybe pull the dragging wheel cylinder and inspect the back side for defects. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 Well then as mentioned, the wheel cylinder didn't seat correctly, or something is holding it out farther than it is supposed to be. Did you have to pound the drum off and hit the back plate and bend it? 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 The backing plate may be bent. I did have to drive the drum off from the back side. I tried to only hammer on the drum using a punch between the splits in the dust shield. I may have connected with the dust shield a few time, but I wasn't any harder on this one than the opposite side. I'll pull the cylinder back off tomorrow 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 It would be hard to bend it, my bet would be as mentioned, it didn't seat correctly, or wrong part, but if that plate is bent, it would have the same result, rubbing on things it's not supposed to rub on. From the looks of the photo, your not going to be able to clearance it by grinding on it, I have gotten wrong wheel cylinders before at the parts store that were supposed to work(updated number), but they didn't work, they were Centric parts/numbers, but they were mid 80s Nissan wheel cylinders. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 Time to take some good measurements as compared to the other side. This is a situation where you'll probably find a smoking gun. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted January 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 I haven't gotten back to the wheel cylinder but I did work on pulling the fuel tank. This is what came out of the fuel tank even after it added fresh fuel to dilute whatever was in there When I saw that stuff I knew the tank had to come out. Not really that surprised it looked light that based I the smell at filler neck and what I found in the fuel pump and lines near filter The sending unit looks to be in one peice, but that is prior to clean up Fuel tank is ready to go to work for cleaning 3 Quote Link to comment
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