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HOGIE

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I would have taken the opportunity to convert to a dual circuit master, like from a 620 or 510 (510 has front disc brakes so there may be residual valve issue).

I drive my 521 every day with single and it's fine. The NL won't be driving anywhere in a hurry so I think it will do just fine for my use
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It's not that they don't work well, but if they fail...holy shit. Ask me how I know.

 

Dual circuit master is cheap insurance.

Ah. That would be a bitch. Upgrade will likely happen next year. Just want it running, driving, stopping and cleaned up by summer
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I'm sure that the E1 & J-Series oil pans will interchange, as will the majority of other parts. I'd guess that the depth and bottom pattern might be a little different. I'm thinking that the J pan might be a half inch or so deeper. Could be either one originally but looks like my E1 pan.

 

Steve

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HOGIE, I might have an extra oil pan seal and other random engine gaskets if you're interested. I'm doing a rebuild on a J15 for my L320 and I bought a gasket kit and later an engine rebuild kit with bearings etc. so I've got some doubles of some stuff.

Awesome. PM'd

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I'll post pics of the extra stuff I end up with.

 

I'm psyched 'cause I've been able to find Datsun J engine parts through forklift parts places. I bought a water pump off a guy in Arkansas who said Datsun pickup and roadster people hit him up all the time. He's a forklift guy but loves old Datsuns. 

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Here're the extras:

200cde4325.jpg

 

Also while we're talking gaskets does anyone have a parts number or link for the carburetor gasket for this guy:

20077a85af.jpg

dude this is awesome. I wanted to clean up my oil pan and valve cover but haven't moved on it because fear of trying to find replacement gaskets. PM coming
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This is a strange looking manifold, it doesn't have the notches for mounting it.

20077a85af.jpg

 

Doesn't need mounting/locating holes. It bolts to the exhaust manifold at the heat exchanger under the carb with four bolts. The exhaust manifold has a hole in flanges at front and rear port that locates the unit.

 

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Doesn't need mounting/locating holes. It bolts to the exhaust manifold at the heat exchanger under the carb with four bolts. The exhaust manifold has a hole in flanges at front and rear port that locates the unit.

 

Painted%20amp%20Coated%202_zpschqs2fme-1

I forgot about that, never had one apart so far, I have 3 different intake manifolds and 2 different exhaust manifolds that don't have that connection.

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Doesn't need mounting/locating holes. It bolts to the exhaust manifold at the heat exchanger under the carb with four bolts. The exhaust manifold has a hole in flanges at front and rear port that locates the unit.

 

Painted%20amp%20Coated%202_zpschqs2fme-1

 

Man! Thats a sexy little engine

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Doesn't need mounting/locating holes. It bolts to the exhaust manifold at the heat exchanger under the carb with four bolts. The exhaust manifold has a hole in flanges at front and rear port that locates the unit.

 

 

Right, those ears on the intake manifold mounting flange get held in place by these big washers. 

 

2013_02_10%20manifold%20(2).JPG

 

 

 

Side note on those washers:  I'm swapping a J13 exhaust manifold onto by E-1 engine.  They are supposed to flow better.  See below for comparison.  Anyway, if anyone else attempts that swap make sure you swap both the J13 intake and exhaust manifolds (as a matched pair), because the J13 manifolds have a thicker flange and if you mix/match the E-1 intake with the J13 exhaust manifold the washers won't sit flush across the two manifolds.  Ask me how I found that out! 

 

E-1 manifold on the left, J13 on the right. 

 

2016_11_13_manifolds%20(1).JPG

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Conner, that bolt style exit flange on the J13 will probably be easier to attain a good seal on than the flare style exit on the E1 manifold. I have seen posts (Andy in Wichita comes to mind) where it was a real chore to get a good seal on the E1 pipe. I didn't have any problems on mine though. The leadout pipe must be aligned up with the mainfold exit, the bell that on the manifold must be in good smooth condition, and the flare on the leadout pipe must be well formed. I also wrapped about six layers of plumber's teflon tape around the bell on the manifold bell. Haven't had a problem in about 600 miles or so.

 

Steve

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Yeah I agree the J13 manifold is going to require much less creativity to connect to the downstream exhaust. 

Word around the campfire is that the exhaust manifold itself was responsible for a non-trivial portion of the increased 7 horsepower/9 pound-feet of torque that the J13 had on the E-1, which is why I'm making the swap.  It's a performance mod! 

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Yeah I agree the J13 manifold is going to require much less creativity to connect to the downstream exhaust. 

Word around the campfire is that the exhaust manifold itself was responsible for a non-trivial portion of the increased 7 horsepower/9 pound-feet of torque that the J13 had on the E-1, which is why I'm making the swap.  It's a performance mod! 

 

Would the J13 exhaust manifold clear the steering column?

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Just for fun, I googled MGB oil pan and MGA oil pan and there are a few different styles readily available, and the bolt pattern looks identical to the one pictured above.

I used a MGB pan gasket on my J13. The lifter cover and intake/exhaust gaskets are also a direct fit along with other odds and ends.

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