HOGIE Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 NOS j13 pump on ebay for a little less than $100 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Datsun-520-521-620-J13-Engine-PUMP-ASSY-FUEL-genuine-from-japan-/272440185342?hash=item3f6eb351fe:g:-pQAAOSwLF1X95Fa&vxp=mtr If you find a J13 pump local, here is a diaphragm for about $20 shipped http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-520-521-620-J13-FUEL-PUMP-DIAPHRAGM-JAPAN-NOS-a-/371781208437?hash=item568fe30975:g:V9YAAOSwHMJYHQb0&vxp=mtr Very funny. I was just on ebay. Purchased one of the diaphragms. And was about to say 'dam ebay' with a link to that same fuel pump. I'm going to sleep on it, but might drop a bill for that fuel pump ugh 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 You need to pull yours apart, it may just have crap in it, it's not that hard to pull apart, I just pulled the blue one apart and took photos, the little valves might be full of shit. 5 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Very funny. I was just on ebay. Purchased one of the diaphragms. And was about to say 'dam ebay' with a link to that same fuel pump. I'm going to sleep on it, but might drop a bill for that fuel pump ugh pop yours open and see what's doin' in there. Might just have shit in the valves or somethin.. be delicate and you might even be able to save the diaphragm. Although, given your history with fuel pumps.. (albeit not your fault) a new one might not be a bad option. Or backup option. 2 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 You need to pull yours apart, it may just.... pop yours open and see what's doin' in there. Might just have shit .... I opened it up but no just The diaphragm has a crusty layer but I was able to clean that off with clean fuel The valves were clean in the lower chamber next to the diaphragm. Upper chamber had some crud so I washed upper and lower chamber with fuel and put it back together. Poured fuel into inlet tube to loosen up sludge in there. Then tried to pump some fuel. Nothing. Opened up top chamber again. First time I didn't want to remove the gasket to expose filter and outer chamber but I did and found the mother load of nasty fuel sludge. No wonder nothing was coming through. There is a cake of the sludge in the bottom of the chamber. This picture is after I worked at it using fresh fuel to brake it up. It needs a deep clean and new gasket for the top cap. Maybe diaphragm. Or just a rebuild kit. Anyone? 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 So you took the top off? 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Good to see you're finally getting to play with your new toy, HOGIE :thumbup: 2 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 NOS j13 pump on ebay for a little less than $100 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-Datsun-520-521-620-J13-Engine-PUMP-ASSY-FUEL-genuine-from-japan-/272440185342?hash=item3f6eb351fe:g:-pQAAOSwLF1X95Fa&vxp=mtr If you find a J13 pump local, here is a diaphragm for about $20 shipped http://www.ebay.com/itm/DATSUN-520-521-620-J13-FUEL-PUMP-DIAPHRAGM-JAPAN-NOS-a-/371781208437?hash=item568fe30975:g:V9YAAOSwHMJYHQb0&vxp=mtr The Ebay diaphram won't fit your pump. It has six holes and your pump has five and it's a little bigger diameter. I know, I bought one last year. Soak everything in carb cleaner or lacquer thinner (no plastic or the diaphram in the lacquer thinner)!!! Use a stiff bristle brush on what looks like little screens in the valves. Looks like you have a lot of whats called 'shellac'. Thats the thick or solidified crud that is on everything. That's what gasoline turns to when it sits for a long time and evaporates. I use Marine Stabil in all my engines occasionally, and as a rule if they sit for a while. Also use 'Marvel Mystery Oil' in the fuel regularly. Also use Rotella-T diesel oil in all the older four-strokers. Steve 2 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 So you took the top off? After taking it apart and putting back together with no change I realized it was one of two things, the diaphragm wasn't seating of the inlet was clogged. It was clogged. Had to find the reason. I think I can just make the top gasket with bulk gasket and a compass once I get everything clean and if the diaphragm is good it will work 3 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 After taking it apart and putting back together with no change I realized it was one of two things, the diaphragm wasn't seating of the inlet was clogged. It was clogged. Had to find the reason. I think I can just make the top gasket with bulk gasket and a compass once I get everything clean and if the diaphragm is good it will work If the diaphram isn't hard nor cracked or has no pin holes in it, it will work just fine, my dad used to bring them back to life when he couldn't find replacements for them, 9 out of 10 worked out. 3 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 The Ebay diaphram won't fit your pump. It has six holes and your pump has five and it's a little bigger diameter. I know, I bought one last year. Soak everything in carb cleaner or lacquer thinner (no plastic or the diaphram in the lacquer thinner)!!! Use a stiff bristle brush on what looks like little screens in the valves. Looks like you have a lot of whats called 'shellac'. Thats the thick or solidified crud that is on everything. That's what gasoline turns to when it sits for a long time and evaporates. I use Marine Stabil in all my engines occasionally, and as a rule if they sit for a while. Also use 'Marvel Mystery Oil' in the fuel regularly. Also use Rotella-T diesel oil in all the older four-strokers. Steve Lots of shellac I bought the J13 diaphragm with the idea that I will be able to source a J13 fuel pump to rebuild more likely than a E1 fuel pump rebuild kit How do I pull out the valves, are they screw in or tap in? 1 Quote Link to comment
Conner Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 By "valves" do you mean the circular brass screened things in the top of the pump? If so, remove the plate (two flat-head screws) that holds them in place, then you should be able to gently press them out with your fingers. 2 Quote Link to comment
difrangia Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Lots of shellac I bought the J13 diaphragm with the idea that I will be able to source a J13 fuel pump to rebuild more likely than a E1 fuel pump rebuild kit How do I pull out the valves, are they screw in or tap in? Conner is probably right. I've never been into one of these pumps and been too many years on the ole small block Chevys. The valves absolutely have to seal or you wont get pump action. 2 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 By "valves" do you mean the circular brass screened things in the top of the pump? If so, remove the plate (two flat-head screws) that holds them in place, then you should be able to gently press them out with your fingers. Yup. That's what I was talking about. Thanks. I was affraid to push on them without hearing it first from someone else first. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 So you took the top off? Wouldn't have found the nastiest part had I not 2 Quote Link to comment
Conner Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Yup. That's what I was talking about. Thanks. I was affraid to push on them without hearing it first from someone else first. Yeah just be gentle with them and make sure you hold your other hand so that you catch/block them when they pop off the housing, because they may go flying. 2 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 I guess I got lucky and bought the correct ones, I was told they were for the 320 by Vindats. I just sent her an email asking if she had any more, I will let you know when she responds. 2 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted November 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 I guess I got lucky and bought the correct ones, I was told they were for the 320 by Vindats. I just sent her an email asking if she had any more, I will let you know when she responds. Those sure look nice 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 Wouldn't have found the nastiest part had I not I was afraid to take that part apart, mine looks like someone put some kind of form a gasket material in that area. The one I took apart doesn't work properly, I am hoping to rebuild it. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted November 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 I was afraid to take that part apart, mine looks like someone put some kind of form a gasket material in that area. The one I took apart doesn't work properly, I am hoping to rebuild it. What I took out of there was a cork gasket over a screen. The cork gasket only half covered the space between the outer and inner reservoir walls. I'm pretty sure I can make that. 1 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted November 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 These showed up in the mail today. Two not perfect but usable NL taillight lenses Thanks wayno! I'll get to installing them soon but as Craig now knows, I need to organize my garage so I can get to my work bench as well as find my tools. 3 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 I often spend half my garage time looking for shit I lost. Still planding on stopping by this weekend. With calipers and heater boot. 4 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted November 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 I often spend half my garage time looking for shit I lost. Still planding on stopping by this weekend. With calipers and heater boot. Awesome 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 Clean the best looking one of the two and put it where the broken one is, the broken parts will be hidden behind the taillight bezel, take your time when you pull the lens off the taillight bucket, don't loose any of them screws and flat nut type things, use PB Blaster or something like it on the screws, don't bust them parts as you are not going to find them anywhere else unless you make them yourself. 3 Quote Link to comment
HOGIE Posted November 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 Clean the best looking one of the two and put it where the broken one is, the broken parts will be hidden behind the taillight bezel, take your time when you pull the lens off the taillight bucket, don't loose any of them screws and flat nut type things, use PB Blaster or something like it on the screws, don't bust them parts as you are not going to find them anywhere else unless you make them yourself. I'll lube it up with PB, bought a fresh can for this truck, and let it sit. No stripped heads or broken screws. 1 Quote Link to comment
KoHeartsGPA Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 I often spend half my garage time looking for shit I lost. Still planding on stopping by this weekend. With calipers and heater boot. I keep losing my 17mm...i had to buy another set of wrenches to do my valve adjustments :no: 2 Quote Link to comment
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