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240zness

'71 Z with a paint job

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Been driving a series one z for about three years. Bought it for plenty of money , and being somewhat naive ignored rust in the floors, the original un 'rebuilt' engine, extra fuel filter in the car (rusty tank).

 

Car drove well for about 5-10 min until screens in the bowls clogged. Car was not being driven few oily plugs , is it possible the plug wires were out of order? Had the tank done for reasonable price , including all vent hoses previously deleted. could tell the car was basically given a paint job and put up for sale but i like cars that havnt been torn apart for 40 years.

 

so pics ? 2011.. found about twelve pics of it on a google search.. same lic plate

 

18dwwnu8zgzppjpg.jpg

 

powder coated mags in pretty rough shape , green hood, donor passenger door.. passenger side pretty beat up

 

car painted around the bages they didnt break off.. through the windsheild cowl, liitle on the window rubber , some rough spots and thin , look like they ran out of paint. doesnt look like they preped the hood well , but they put in work and im no expert

 

all ive done is work on headlight mounting , tint removal , some interior, and ill get to that

IMG_20160618_112600719.jpg

 

^2016 blown brake booster

 

put some mileage on it , drove it hard .. recent blown head gasket (dont want to tell that )

 

So i do understand mechanic theory pretty well , worked in golf course maint for 5 years, i do not have much garage access.

 

Called up Classic Datsun Motorsports in Vista.. Les said he do the motor

 

IMG_20161011_WA0007.jpg

 

 

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'87 IMSA GT2 Champ (80's turbo :w00t:

 

Alright , I plan on making a thread out of this with pics of my car and me working on it .. heater core , electrical

 

ill load some oics of floors/ issues with the car ( tomorrow ) as i have it torn apart

 

Please excuse disjointed style , and please talk shit.. need to change my signature

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Here are some more pics for you guys who are all over this post..

IMG_20161022_145629217.jpgIMG_20161022_145613135.jpgIMG_20161022_142804730.jpgIMG_20161022_142815890.jpgIMG_20161022_142820944.jpg

 

floors, rust

 

IMG_20161022_142739587.jpgIMG_20161022_142716024_HDR.jpgIMG_20161022_142646932_HDR.jpg

 

IMG_20161022_145558318.jpg

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passenger floor pushed up badly from the bottom

 

rusty harness with melted wire/s

 

blowing out heater

 

IMG_20161022_152139957_HDR_2.jpg

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Looked great until t that for rust. Also I liked the polished mags over the powder coated. Good luck!

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Thanks man , liked your build.

 

Polished mags , yes .. some gouges and pits tho, might like them striped and rough

 

Nothing crazy with wheels(look good with Advans) , thinking steel with original caps when I need tires.. 235s too much grip

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Cool Z! That car is far less rusty than mine was when I started with it..... No problem. Great opportunity to learn to weld.

 

Details on the motor? Looks like a reground camshaft, what are the specs on it?

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.20 over flat top pistons and a reshaped stock cam. Original motor. I'll get details

 

IMG_20170125_114157995.jpg

 

IMG_20170125_113744349_HDR.jpg

 

IMG_20170126_094550199.jpg

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Nice engine details. It takes a lot of work to do that. Well done!

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Thanks guys.. it cost me as the work was all done by experts not me. I always thought about a turbo L motor swap, but NA L motors sound so good and I'm into originality especially on an early z. But needed a rebuild ( decided on keeping the original numbers together) and was done by a race shop that does it only the right way, meaning nickel plating etc. Valve cover was easier polished than blasted, not a huge chrome fan, but header coating matched.

 

Had new replacement Hitachis to put on and the shop had a rebuilt 4 speed.

 

Excited to get it back today :)

 

Still some temp patching of floors( I plan on keeping on dry roads) and electrical work.. earlier pic of fried harness turned out to be a cooked ground wire that had previously been hooked up to the alternator. But gauges like tach , gas are not working. Hazard switch pretty questionable.

 

I'll get a few more pics up.. maybe in pics of your Z thread

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That's a decent size cam for a street car, I'll bet she pulls pretty good. How does it idle? What make is it?

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Good pull when revved , did stall idling in the first couple ten miles.. good idle

 

Little diesel when I shut off... so clutch out in first

 

Cam make , hmmm thought they used orig?

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They may have, Isky and Delta regrind them. The specs look a little like a Compcams grind to me. Just curious.

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American Custom Cams , appreciate the interest.

 

No sarcasm, was unsure about grinding stock part to those specs

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New motor is pulling great. Had an issue with the NOS Hitachi SUs in the form of a stuck bowl filling needle , back carb , just the result of old assembly oil clogging . . Bowl was dry

 

Lost a lot of power on a drive over the mountains to palm desert. No power when revved and advance kicked in?

 

Anyway , putting back together is difficult with all the problems caused by age and my disassembly. But right now no headlights. Is 11.8 volts at the headlight plugs on the harness not enough? Had both working for a few days. Connections seem decent.

 

Searching the forum yields relay setup and upgrades. I'll have help from my shop and have a lot of other electrical to work on, but any thoughts , stories?

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New motor is pulling great. Had an issue with the NOS Hitachi SUs in the form of a stuck bowl filling needle , back carb , just the result of old assembly oil clogging . . Bowl was dry

 

Lost a lot of power on a drive over the mountains to palm desert. No power when revved and advance kicked in?

 

Anyway , putting back together is difficult with all the problems caused by age and my disassembly. But right now no headlights. Is 11.8 volts at the headlight plugs on the harness not enough? Had both working for a few days. Connections seem decent.

 

Searching the forum yields relay setup and upgrades. I'll have help from my shop and have a lot of other electrical to work on, but any thoughts , stories?

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If you have 11.8v at the plugs the lights should work. Where did you have the meter grounded when you took that measurement, in the plug or to the chassis?

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Out of curiosity I think I'd measure resistance and continuity through the bulbs. It's very unlikely they are both blown but really if the circuit is complete and the voltage is present then it should work. The relay upgrade is still a good idea, and the headlight switch can become problematic but i don't believe you would be seeing the voltage at the plug if that were the case.

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