240zness Posted October 21, 2016 Report Share Posted October 21, 2016 Been driving a series one z for about three years. Bought it for plenty of money , and being somewhat naive ignored rust in the floors, the original un 'rebuilt' engine, extra fuel filter in the car (rusty tank). Car drove well for about 5-10 min until screens in the bowls clogged. Car was not being driven few oily plugs , is it possible the plug wires were out of order? Had the tank done for reasonable price , including all vent hoses previously deleted. could tell the car was basically given a paint job and put up for sale but i like cars that havnt been torn apart for 40 years. so pics ? 2011.. found about twelve pics of it on a google search.. same lic plate powder coated mags in pretty rough shape , green hood, donor passenger door.. passenger side pretty beat up car painted around the bages they didnt break off.. through the windsheild cowl, liitle on the window rubber , some rough spots and thin , look like they ran out of paint. doesnt look like they preped the hood well , but they put in work and im no expert all ive done is work on headlight mounting , tint removal , some interior, and ill get to that ^2016 blown brake booster put some mileage on it , drove it hard .. recent blown head gasket (dont want to tell that ) So i do understand mechanic theory pretty well , worked in golf course maint for 5 years, i do not have much garage access. Called up Classic Datsun Motorsports in Vista.. Les said he do the motor '87 IMSA GT2 Champ (80's turbo :w00t: Alright , I plan on making a thread out of this with pics of my car and me working on it .. heater core , electrical ill load some oics of floors/ issues with the car ( tomorrow ) as i have it torn apart Please excuse disjointed style , and please talk shit.. need to change my signature 2 Quote Link to comment
240zness Posted October 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2016 Here are some more pics for you guys who are all over this post.. floors, rust passenger floor pushed up badly from the bottom rusty harness with melted wire/s blowing out heater 2 Quote Link to comment
EndStar Posted October 24, 2016 Report Share Posted October 24, 2016 Looked great until t that for rust. Also I liked the polished mags over the powder coated. Good luck! 2 Quote Link to comment
240zness Posted October 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2016 Thanks man , liked your build. Polished mags , yes .. some gouges and pits tho, might like them striped and rough Nothing crazy with wheels(look good with Advans) , thinking steel with original caps when I need tires.. 235s too much grip 1 Quote Link to comment
240zness Posted January 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Some work on the interior.. 1 Quote Link to comment
240zness Posted January 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 And the motor..to go in this week 2 Quote Link to comment
Colbino Posted January 25, 2017 Report Share Posted January 25, 2017 Great starting point. Love the color! 2 Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted January 26, 2017 Report Share Posted January 26, 2017 Cool Z! That car is far less rusty than mine was when I started with it..... No problem. Great opportunity to learn to weld. Details on the motor? Looks like a reground camshaft, what are the specs on it? 1 Quote Link to comment
240zness Posted January 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2017 .20 over flat top pistons and a reshaped stock cam. Original motor. I'll get details 2 Quote Link to comment
Trophy24 Posted January 28, 2017 Report Share Posted January 28, 2017 Nice engine details. It takes a lot of work to do that. Well done! 2 Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted January 28, 2017 Report Share Posted January 28, 2017 Engine looks great! Great attention to detail. 1 Quote Link to comment
240zness Posted January 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2017 Thanks guys.. it cost me as the work was all done by experts not me. I always thought about a turbo L motor swap, but NA L motors sound so good and I'm into originality especially on an early z. But needed a rebuild ( decided on keeping the original numbers together) and was done by a race shop that does it only the right way, meaning nickel plating etc. Valve cover was easier polished than blasted, not a huge chrome fan, but header coating matched. Had new replacement Hitachis to put on and the shop had a rebuilt 4 speed. Excited to get it back today :) Still some temp patching of floors( I plan on keeping on dry roads) and electrical work.. earlier pic of fried harness turned out to be a cooked ground wire that had previously been hooked up to the alternator. But gauges like tach , gas are not working. Hazard switch pretty questionable. I'll get a few more pics up.. maybe in pics of your Z thread 1 Quote Link to comment
240zness Posted February 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2017 Complete engine , running great 7 Quote Link to comment
tr8er Posted February 5, 2017 Report Share Posted February 5, 2017 Looking slick as hell 2 Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 If it runs as good as it looks you're all set! 2 Quote Link to comment
240zness Posted February 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2017 2 Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted February 16, 2017 Report Share Posted February 16, 2017 That's a decent size cam for a street car, I'll bet she pulls pretty good. How does it idle? What make is it? 1 Quote Link to comment
240zness Posted February 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 Good pull when revved , did stall idling in the first couple ten miles.. good idle Little diesel when I shut off... so clutch out in first Cam make , hmmm thought they used orig? 1 Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted February 26, 2017 Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 They may have, Isky and Delta regrind them. The specs look a little like a Compcams grind to me. Just curious. 1 Quote Link to comment
240zness Posted February 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted February 26, 2017 American Custom Cams , appreciate the interest. No sarcasm, was unsure about grinding stock part to those specs 2 Quote Link to comment
240zness Posted April 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 New motor is pulling great. Had an issue with the NOS Hitachi SUs in the form of a stuck bowl filling needle , back carb , just the result of old assembly oil clogging . . Bowl was dry Lost a lot of power on a drive over the mountains to palm desert. No power when revved and advance kicked in? Anyway , putting back together is difficult with all the problems caused by age and my disassembly. But right now no headlights. Is 11.8 volts at the headlight plugs on the harness not enough? Had both working for a few days. Connections seem decent. Searching the forum yields relay setup and upgrades. I'll have help from my shop and have a lot of other electrical to work on, but any thoughts , stories? 2 Quote Link to comment
240zness Posted April 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2017 New motor is pulling great. Had an issue with the NOS Hitachi SUs in the form of a stuck bowl filling needle , back carb , just the result of old assembly oil clogging . . Bowl was dry Lost a lot of power on a drive over the mountains to palm desert. No power when revved and advance kicked in? Anyway , putting back together is difficult with all the problems caused by age and my disassembly. But right now no headlights. Is 11.8 volts at the headlight plugs on the harness not enough? Had both working for a few days. Connections seem decent. Searching the forum yields relay setup and upgrades. I'll have help from my shop and have a lot of other electrical to work on, but any thoughts , stories? 1 Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted May 2, 2017 Report Share Posted May 2, 2017 If you have 11.8v at the plugs the lights should work. Where did you have the meter grounded when you took that measurement, in the plug or to the chassis? 1 Quote Link to comment
240zness Posted May 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2017 Plug , bottom spade. Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted May 4, 2017 Report Share Posted May 4, 2017 Out of curiosity I think I'd measure resistance and continuity through the bulbs. It's very unlikely they are both blown but really if the circuit is complete and the voltage is present then it should work. The relay upgrade is still a good idea, and the headlight switch can become problematic but i don't believe you would be seeing the voltage at the plug if that were the case. 1 Quote Link to comment
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