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260z RB25DET swap

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Update!

 

Drove for 9 hours today to pick up a mega deal. Freddy RB25 intake+Q45 TB+Greddy fuel rail+Injector Dynamic 725CC injectors. 

 

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And now a question. Does anyone know how to get these clips for the louvers out? I'm hoping they can come out without removing the hatch glass but I'm not opposed to taking it out because I have to fix some rust on the hatch anyway.

 

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YES! I love those intake manifolds. So much better than stock.  :thumbup:

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Yeah disregarding the power gains from this it's just a nice easy way to tidy up your engine bay. Unfortunately this won't be going on the motor for a while. Part of the fun is hunting the deals. I'm going to keep scouring the junkyards for a cheap turbo I can rebuild and a Z32 ECU to tune on. My goal is $5000 for 400WHP with this build. Also a stock RB is enough to get me in trouble for the time being. 

 

I'm still contemplating doing a fender exit exhaust so if anyone has reasons that I shouldn't do it aside from being loud I'd love to hear them.

 

Also to tie the post off here's a little panoramic shot I took of the garage with my old mans car too. Might have to spend a day cleaning instead of working on the car.  ;)

 

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Does anyone have any strong opinions on a brand of coilovers for the S30? I'm going for maximum low here and would like the option to lay this thing on the frame. I'd prefer to be into the entire setup for under $1500 for the coils and hopefully some camber plates. I'm not scared of cutting and welding so that's not a problem.

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It's almost Christmas!

 

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Unfortunately somehow I never figured out you were suppose to trim your trans ears before you put the tranny in so I had to trim a little bit with the tranny in which results in a less than perfect fit but I'm not worried, it's close enough that I can make it work.

 

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I also decided to relocate my battery to the back and put my surge tank where the battery use to reside. On a related side note holy shit AN fittings cost a lot of money.

 

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Now I need to wait on my intercooler and driveshaft to get here and I can do a final assembly on the car. After that it's wiring and I'm done!

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Congrats bro welcome to the world of BOOST youre making some great progress I did a turbo swap too I got talked into a 2JZ and LOVE it you will too. oh yeah I found you on instagram  :thumbup:

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@Greezy

 

Thanks man I appreciate the kind words! Followed you back on instagram as well!

 

As for car updates nothing has really happened lately. Just waiting on my intercooler and driveshaft which is taking a while cause of the holidays. Hope to be done in about 2 weeks.

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@brap

 

Yeah it's almost insulting at some point. I think I spent about $140 in fittings for the surge tank and my intake.

 

Also side update. I'm going to pick up a spare suspension tomorrow so I can start working on coilovers sometime soon.

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The welds on your surge tank are beautiful. Is that your work?

 

A clean fuel system can run into serious money these days, but Russell Twist-Lok fittings are a relative bargain. Aeromotive stuff cost three times as much. One 8 AN 90 degree end piece like those are $45 each. Hard to imagine. 

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I don't know much about the rb25det motors, is there a clear benefit over a l28et?  Seems like the base HP is about the same but I'm guessing the newer motor is more efficient and easier to upgrade?

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@paradime

 

Nah I bought the surge tank from a shop. I'll be sure to pass along the kind words next time I'm in however! 

 

@brap

 

Base HP for an L28ET is around 180HP if I remember correctly? Base HP for an RB25 is around 250HP but it's also a lot easier to squeeze HP out of the RB. As it stands for the intake+fuel rail+TB+injectors I'm $750 into it. I'll be using a Z32 ECU with a nistune chip for tuning and that should run me around $300 for the whole setup. Then throw a decent Holset on there for like $300-$400 and I'll be at like 450 crank for less than $1500 in mods and keep it reliable. My buddy has been running the same setup for 9 years as a daily driver and hasn't encountered any problems so far aside from a little shaft play in the turbo.

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No doubt, the RB is a sleeping giant. 

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The L28et was great in its day but its old tech now. Doesn't rev very high, low compression (and doesn't do well if you raise the static compression), difficult to work on the manifolds having them both on the same side of the engine. Heat problems with the manifolds.

 

The turbo is so close to the block that the cyl 4, 5 will often run hotter and detonate on higher boost settings. This eventually destroys the main bearings.

 

L28 is dated but on a lower budget it can be a good alternative. I'm planning to go with the L28 and hope for 250whp and keep it running for many years.

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First time checking out this build.. looks rad! Nice shop space too!

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@Draker 

 

Thanks man I appreciate the kind words.

It's also update time! I haven't really done much because this build is coming into the final stretch right now.

 

I mounted my intercooler after I had to wait 15 days for it to arrive. My piping should arrive sometime in the middle of this week.

 

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Throttle cable was made + mounted today. It was actually the easiest thing I've ever done and I can't believe some companies get off on charging over $150 for a throttle cable for this thing.

 

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I got my battery cables ran I think this is gonna be the final location for the battery.

 

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And to round the post off a shot of my car finally looking like a car again. All that is left is driveshaft + wiring and I'm done!

 

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Just fyi in case you aren't aware.

 

Batteries give off gasses. Only agm or vented batteries should be used inside a vehicle, or a normal battery inside a sealed container which is vented to outside the car.

 

Looking good :)

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@Lockleaf

 

Shit.

 

Can you explain this situation a little more in-depth but also pretend like you are telling it to a 5 year old.

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FWIW, people do the same thing you have going on quite often, and never have issues. But it's against recommendations.

 

Normal lead acid batteries give off hydro chloric acid gases, which are potentially explosive.

 

AGM batteries (stands for Absorbed Glass Mat)(like optima batteries) do not give off these gases, so typically do not need venting.

 

Batteries that are used, from the factory, inside the car interior, have vent tubes built in to them. These tubes vent to the outside of the vehicle to open air somewhere so the gases don't build up inside the car.

 

So you can use a vented battery and run a tube, use an agm and not worry about it, or use a normal battery in a sealed box (even a Tupperware would work great) that has a vent tube in it.

 

Basically anything that prevents build up of potentially dangerous gases inside the car is the goal. I think all interior batteries should be in some kind of container anyway. They can leak, boil over, or at worst explode. All of this will wreak havoc on your interior should it occur.

 

If you have other questions, ask away. Battery part numbers are universal across all batteries (called "group size" and established by a regulatory agency called the BCI), so if you want some potential part numbers to look at, I can provide them. Any place that sells batteries could then help you.

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Other battery relocation things to consider.

 

 

Increase the size of your positive cable by a size gauge or more over stock. Length=resistance, so you may not have enough power left by the time you reach the starter, or you may super heat your main cable. Both can be avoided with larger wire.

 

Install a heavy duty breaker at the battery. Since you will now have a large "hot" cable running the length of the car, you have increased possibility of that cable shorting to ground. A breaker will blow should this occur, preventing major damage or potential fire. Match the breaker to the maximum amperage potential of your positive cable. Both should be big enough to easily handle all the electrical demands of the car.

 

Here's a diagram I designed for the battery relocation (and addition of a fuse block) in to my 510 wagon, in case it helps.

 

Still working on wiring. The engine bay is getting closer to finished, but the dash is still a complete joke. And I haven't even started building a stereo harness. Baby steps, right?

 

But I drew these up last night. I have always hated the fusible link setup in my 720s, and now the same one is in my wagon. I think I've come up with an excellent upgrade to that design, but may be wrong, so feedback is appreciated.

 

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Relocate battery under rear seat.

 

Install high amp breaker right next to battery. If long battery cable ever shorts to ground, it trips, hopefully preventing any real damage anywhere. Breaker also has manual switch, so I will use it as a kill switch.

 

Run cable up to engine bay.

 

Install power distribution block on shelf where OE fuse block sat. Batt cable splits in two directions. One directly down to starter. One to maxi fuse block.

 

Install maxi fuse block on OE fuse block shelf. Wire car harness directly from that box in place of fusible links.

 

Now I just need to figure out the proper amperages for the fuses.

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I will mention, my AGM says to not install inside a vehicle with its supplied instruction.

 

 

Im also ignoring that since it is a AGM...

 

 

I would get either a Deka(Intimidator) or Interstate.

 

And the expelled gas, do you really want to breathe those fumes?

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Update with no pics unfortunately.

 

I got my intercooler piping ran and now I'm waiting to get my radiator welded and my driveshaft cut which both will hopefully be done tomorrow but while I have all this downtime I fixed some odds and ends on the car like the heater not working and the passenger door alignment etc. 

 

I also found some emblems that I got in a box with my 240z and decided to stick them on but all the holes have been filled up. Does anyone have a template for the rear hatch emblems so I can tape them down?

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