shacks510 Posted October 8, 2016 Report Share Posted October 8, 2016 Just get the copper nickel stuff from the autopart store. It's easy to bend and flare. If you need flares done and the line is off the car, find a shop that builds cars. It won't be hard to find one in LA. They probably have the good Eastwood tool. I took my lines to a shop when I redid all the hydraulics on my car. Perfect flares every time. He didn't charge be but I threw him a few bucks each time as a token of appreciation. 1 Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted October 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2016 Just fix your goddamned truck, make a build thread, and post some fucking pictures. Stop being that guy. I know I'm fucking up I've been working on it over a year and dayling it and still no pics haha Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted October 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Another post I asked about the whole flaring deal I bought 3 flaring fittings and the fucking nuts stripped on me right when everything is going fine this shit happened Any ways my question is what is the actual size on the flaring nuts and where can I get them locally... The box they came in say 3/16 the fit on the tube correctly but they fit a bit lose in the master cylinder ... Another thing let's say I flared the tube and it is slightly cocked would that cause that to strip the flaring fitting ? Please help thanks Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 This should have been left in the other thread. You need pictures. And you need lots of practice flaring before you should trust any line you install on your vehicle. Cut little 1 1/2" chunks of line so you can install dry with a flare nut to verify if you are doing it correctly or not. Only loss is the small chunk of tube. Purchase flare nut wrenches at HF, Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, auto parts store. A crooked flare will leak. A crooked line, bent in to the flare, will kink and rub against the flare...leak/brake failure. These are new fittings. There should be no way to strip the heads unless you are blatanly doing it wrong. Flaring tool. Flare nut wrenches. Tubing bender. Take busted flare to the parts store and let them match the threads. If these are rounding off, check threads of what you are installing in to. That part may be galled. 1 Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted October 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Oops sorry I went to the parts store but there's only one that fits the metal 3/16 The master cylinder was supposed to be new I can't find shut at autozone smh Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Use metric tube & fittings, not English size. I know parts stores have the stuff, as I've bought it over the years. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 AutoZone is your first mistake. AutoZone is like the McDonald's of parts stores when what you want is an Old Country Buffet. Or even a Subway. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 And...if this is a new master...make sure you bench bleed it. If not you will ruin it with the first pump of the pedal. This will result in 3 more threads and still needing to install a new master cylinder. And maybe stripping out 3 more flares. 1 Quote Link to comment
Doctor510 Posted October 12, 2016 Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 Another post I asked about the whole flaring deal I bought 3 flaring fittings and the fucking nuts stripped on me right when everything is going fine this shit happened Any ways my question is what is the actual size on the flaring nuts and where can I get them locally... The box they came in say 3/16 the fit on the tube correctly but they fit a bit lose in the master cylinder ... Another thing let's say I flared the tube and it is slightly cocked would that cause that to strip the flaring fitting ? Please help thanks Line size is 3/16" fittings are Japanese M10x1.0 1 Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted October 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 I don't want to seem dumb but what is bench bleeding Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted October 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 I took the hole peice into the stores went to 3 autozones 2 hardware stores 2 mom and pop stores and only orailys had one that was close didn't wiggle as much I'm going t to try it in a bit Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted October 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2016 I'm going to try right now Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Holy shit it is wrong I had cut a chunk of tubing with the nut in the master cylinder ... I finally pulled it out and the threads don't match ... I guess I have been getting standard only Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Nee master cylinder is 3...2... Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Posted above...line size is 3/16". Flare nut sizing is M10x1.0. Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Ok so good news new flare nut size correct not no leaks after two times of redoing the box didn't have instructions and all the videos I was watching didn't explain correctly I figured it out! Bad news is the master cylinder caps are leaking (their nabco caps) and the driver side calipers are leaking Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Why are the caps leaking over fill? Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 I think I need a whole new new master cylinder and maybe a rebuilt caliper Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 The caps are leaking because they're overfull. There should be a max line on your bottles. Too much fluid will lock up your brakes when warm. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Above that line, I was happy to help and get you through your mechanical woes. Below that line, I offer no help until you create one, uno, singular thread for your truck with pictures included. You're gaining knowledge from us. Pay it forward by being a contributor to the content. Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 I will try to get them on here Quote Link to comment
hosestop@msn.com Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Come by and I will flare for you and let you watch, maybe . 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Geeeeez. Measure the length of the old ones with a piece of string and buy them! Get same length or closest over size..... $5 or $6, less for the short side, already made perfectly. Just bend into shape around a baseball bat and put on. Brakes! The single most important safety device on your truck. I'll lend you the $8 to do it right. Geeeeeeeeez buy them. Already perfectly made. Flaring your own is only good for some kind of custom job. Like '82 Dodge Omni. Brake line from front to rear had different flairs and nut size on each end. $110 from the dealer... fixed for under $5. In most cases pre made is simply too easy and too cheap to pass up 1 Quote Link to comment
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