Noflers Posted March 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2017 After quite a bit of frustration over getting the motor wired up, and plenty of help from everyone, I got it going. Runs strong! I still have plenty to do before it's on the road, including shortening the driveshaft, but the light at the end of the tunnel is in sight finally. The first tunnel anyway ;) 1 Quote Link to comment
Noflers Posted March 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2017 Just a few more things to catch up on.... I was quite proud of this fan shroud when I was finished with it, but by the time I got to installing it, I realized it wasn't going to fit, the passenger side fan had to go completely. Going back in time I made one more revision after this, The water pump pulley was a little too close for comfort so I pulled off the remaining fan and replaced it with a 10" fan. The shroud now looks like shit, but I'll be making another eventually. Here's the short shifter kit for the 71B trans installed. It's very crisp moving in and out of gears, and like the name says, a real nice short throw to it as well. First gear Second gear A while back I finally got my door panels in the mail. They also came with all four arm rests and both rear ash trays, and they're all just as clean as the panel in the photo. AAANNND, a bunch of the interior goodies itching to be installed :) I've got all new door seals, pinch weld trim, etc, etc... 1 Quote Link to comment
Noflers Posted April 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2017 I got the drive shaft back from the shop, I had a local machinist do the work, same guy that did my crossmember flip. That was all I needed to take the car on it's first drive: That was just about a 2 mile drive. I cut it short because the rubber hose that connects to the heater valve started leaking. I went back home and tightened the hose clamp down more. After another short drive all seems well with that. It sounds incredible when down shifting with only a header. Way too loud to drive much more than I didI got the downpipe in the mail, but I'm still waiting on the header. Clearance seemed good with the oem header, but I won't know anything until I fit the 4-1 tubular EBay short header.My ride height in the rear needs to come down .5" and the front needs to come up the same. I didn't realize how ridiculous it looks until I saw the video.My alignment is off, again. I forgot I replaced all the steering components a few months ago while the car was down. I'll get that taken care of after I set the ride height in stone. I've also been thinking about putting some tires on the 15x7's the car came with. Probably a 205/50/15, but that's still a long way off. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted April 4, 2017 Report Share Posted April 4, 2017 Nice work on the swap man! 1 Quote Link to comment
the510keeper Posted April 8, 2017 Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 4 doors for more whores 1 Quote Link to comment
Noflers Posted April 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2017 Car runs and idles fantastic. It even revs fine in neutral (with no load?), but not out on the road. Anything more than half throttle and it bogs down immediately before catching back up with itself. The first place I'm going to look is at the fuel pressure. No codes in the ECU BTW.Nicoclub has a big thread about this sort of issue, so that will be a great resource. I got my old shift boot fitted with a big rubber mallet to make it fit the tunnel in it's new spot. I could feel the exhaust coming straight up through the shifter hole and I didn't like it. I read somewhere about stuffing foam under the shift boot to help with some noise so I think I'll try that also. I want to do everything I can to keep this car quiet and comfortable. My downpipe is 3" at the collector, and drops down to 2.75" at the other end. If I can find someone to enlarge the crossmember hole while it's still on the car, I'll go with 2.5" from the cat back, if not I'll go with 2.25". Not that I'll have a cat, but ya know... The adjustable fan controller is in and working good, just need to dial it in with the infrared thermometer. All but the driver door panels are installed, I didn't put the rear ashtrays in yet because I don't have the right screws. OEM S13 4-2 header on the left, aftermarket S14 4-1 on the right. The O2 sensor location is still unusable due to the steering box, but I made an extension wire so it can be placed in the downpipe. I also had to use a universal sensor from Bosch (P/N 11027) because the S13 O2 sensor has 22mm threads versus the S14 18mm threads. I think it was the cheapest O2 sensor I've ever had to buy at $19.99 In this photo of the downpipe you can see where the O2 sensor will go. Here's the fit, the header flange still needs to be cut off and angled more towards the trans tunnel. the down pipe and header are both connected in the photo. I'm going to start it up today to see how it sounds. I'm expecting a big change in tone, probably not for the better. 1 Quote Link to comment
Tedman Posted April 9, 2017 Report Share Posted April 9, 2017 Looks like your car may have been an SCCA racecar in a previous life, witness the itc on the left rear door. That would be Improved Touring class C (ITC), for basically stock engined cars with mildy modified suspensions. In theory, the cars remained street legal. Engine mods were basically limited to intake (Weber 32/36) and a header. 510s were very popular in ITC in the '80s and '90s on the west coast. There's probably still holes in the floors from the bolt-in cage. Some pics of ITC 510s racing at Riverside in the mid-80s here: http://datsun510.com/index.php?/gallery/album/169-scca-improved-touring-510s/ -Ted Quote Link to comment
Noflers Posted April 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2017 Yep, I've tried hard to find photos of it from back when it raced, but always turn up empty handed. There are holes in the floor, but not for a cage. This one had it's cage welded in, still has stubs welded in all four corners where the cage was cut out. It had the number 26 on it by the way. Also, it had long tube headers, a Weber, and the A87 head was ported/polished. The block was an L18 so I don't know if I have the engine it was raced with. Oh, and lots of little DIY suspension mods (offset LCA bushings, solid mounted subframe, etc...) Quote Link to comment
Noflers Posted April 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2017 I've got big issues with timing right now. It will run, but the distributor either has to be fully advanced or fully retarded depending on which tooth I set it on. There's no in between. The motor is at TDC here Cam lobes on #1 are both facing out And the distributor in its two possible positions Quote Link to comment
Noflers Posted April 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2017 Engine is running well again. Valve cover, front cover off. I made sure timing was right. New cap and rotor because I needed them anyway, new plugs because I had them on hand and I wanted a fresh start. I got myself a new multimeter with an inductive tach and and thermometer probe. I'll be sure to set the idle correctly too. Also got a timing light because I got tired of waiting on a friend to bring one over. I was off work semi early today so I decided I'd install the sunvisors. Well, when my arm got tired after the first one I thought I should install the rear carpet section also. Well, that ended up taking quite a bit more time than I expected and I never got around tp the second sunvisor. lol The headliner looks like hell here because I also pulled the pinch weld trim and separated the glue so I could redo it with better stretch. Here's the door with new trim. I really wanna do something about the B-pillar trim color. This bundle of wiring made for a difficult fit with the molded carpet. Thick black=main +battery to starter, Yellow=fuel pump ground, Thin red=fuel pump +, Thick red=Aux fuse box where CAN AM and electric fans get get power. Just some trimming and spot gluing left here. The bare door is the driver door, if I can't find a new one soon I'll put the panel and trim on it. Quote Link to comment
Noflers Posted April 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2017 Compression tested okay at 120 psi across all four cylinders. It's low, but at least they're all equal. Might explain some of the smoke... My warm idle is about 950, I'll bring that down some later. Now what has me worried, when heated up and idling, the #4 exhaust manifold runner is 100 degrees cooler than the rest. I'm kinda leaning toward a bad injector, but will dig more to figure it out. Bad injector is exactly what it was. Also, was probably the main cause of the bogging/hesitation issues I was having. While I was waiting on an injector I got some carpet shots, all trimmed and glued up. Found a leak when I took the intake tube off. There's a very small hole just before the throttle plate on the bottom. It comes out the underneath to the fitting that I have an ugly plug on now. I'm not sure what it was originally for, but I don't think I need or want it. It's been a couple weeks since I last drove it. Was having issues with bogging/hesitation, and one non functioning injector which might have been the biggest cause of that. Anyway, that plus plugging the last of my vac leaks made today's drive much smoother. The fan is coming on a little after the thermostat opens up and is working great also. I painted the b-pillar trim black with some vinyl/cloth paint to match the rest of the interior. It's looking much better. Seat is able to fully recline with plenty of clearance for the rear door handles and things. More carpet photos Have you ever wondered what's under this riveted on piece of sheet metal? I have. I assumed it was there for a good reason, I was right. I guess someone got tired of messing up the awesome bondo job. Rocker panels Needed. 1 Quote Link to comment
Plusnone Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 Looks good, coming along nicely. Got plans for the rear seat, reupholstered blue to match the fronts? Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted April 18, 2017 Report Share Posted April 18, 2017 Does look good. Nice job Quote Link to comment
RatSunny Posted April 20, 2017 Report Share Posted April 20, 2017 great progress. keep it up! :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
Noflers Posted May 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2017 April 22nd: New mustache bar bushings installed. Diff input seal and crossmember bushings coming soon. Noticed one axle is reversed. The one on the left needs to be flipped around. April 26th: I think this was too easy to remove. Once I had the nut removed, the flange came right out with my hands. I wasn't really planning on doing this today, I just found some free time and went for it. So I'm sourcing a new cover gasket and pinion shaft seal right now. Everything checked out in here. Working on getting this cleaned up. Seal will stay until I have a new one. I found that the main diff mount bolts were pretty loose. Might The light thump I hear on accel/decel. Some of the very few bolts/nuts I haven't put a wrench to yet. May 2nd: Got my rear diff refresh kit ready to go. And back together. Quote Link to comment
Noflers Posted May 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2017 May 13th: Went out to the junkyard and got a couple of the fuel injector retainers off a 96 Maxima. They looked brand new, should have got all 6, lol. The motor itself looked brand new as well. They all looked the exact same on the Sentra and of course the Frontier. And got the injector replaced. Old new one had a big gauge in the lower o-ring. Definitely leaky. It's running smoother than ever now. Sustained low throttle was really rough with the leaky injector but that is no more. I'm pretty happy with the way everything is situated now, can't wait to start driving it more. Got some wire separators, really helped keep them where I want. May 14th: This for now. Took the car down to a nice little photo spot I've got for selling cars ;) Got some good reference photos of the ride height from different angles. Also some others.. Rear still needs to come down some, maybe .75" or so. Starting to shape up! May 15th: Thanks a lot! And once again, it's all the build threads and help from you all that got me where I am with it. I bent up this heat shield earlier, it's crude, but works great. Before I could feel a TON of heat coming off the intake tube and knew it was because the filter is so close to the manifold. Now the tube stays nice and cool. Just one more thing from me today. I got an oil catch can in the mail. I quickly turned it into a coolant reservoir. Bolted the reservoir to a steel plate, then slid plate into washer bottle mount location. Added some rubber insulation behind the plate and done. And it seems like after I painted the valve cover (which needs repainting now), everything else came blue. As you can see by the intake elbow piece, I'm trying to move away from blue. But hey, I'd like for the car to be blue one day anyway. Hahaha, I don't know what's going on. 2 Quote Link to comment
Noflers Posted May 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 19, 2017 Here it is: I'm mostly happy with it, though they could have sucked the exhaust up much closer to the body. Exhaust is definitely it's lowest point now. Desperately needs an alignment. Here's some shots showing how low the exhaust hangs. I also noticed the engine doesn't backfire at all with a full exhaust. It pulls nice and hard through all gears, I'm happy to report that this 71B trans is way healthier than my Subaru's trans. It takes a little extra effort to get into the gears for the first 15 minutes or so, but once it's warm it's pretty smooth. I'm already starting to feel like I need more rubber on the ground. Anyone ever put a 205 tire on a 6" wheel? 3 Quote Link to comment
Noflers Posted June 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 Okay, where do I start? Ever since I got the motor running it burned a bit of oil on throttle blips and there was combustion gasses getting in the cooling system. I set out to do the head gasket, and the timing chain since I was in there anyway. I sent the head to the machine shop and they installed new valve stem seals and decked the gasket surface. I also made sure they checked all the valves to make sure they were straight, and they were. lol Here's why, Just about all of it here, Installed the freshened head and went on my way. I started it up a couple days later and it was burning a massive amount of coolant and I could see combustion gasses coming out of the radiator again. So I tore it back down, and checked the head bolt torque. Bolts 9 and 2 were both under torqued. Not sure what went wrong, as I used new bolts and followed the FSM to the letter. At this point I was pretty discouraged, but I got right back to work tearing it down again. I don't have photos of the second time around, but it was clear coolant was getting into cylinder 1, and a tiny bit into number 2. A few days after that I was ready to start it up again. This time, before I started it, I did compression tests and they came back great. I also pressurized the cooling system and that went well too. When I started it, it was blowing oil smoke like crazy and running on maybe 2 cylinders, I said FML 99 times. But then I remembered I did wet compression testing and proceeded to crank the engine until most of the oil was gone. Also changed plugs because they were fouled out from gas and oil. This is exactly how I changed the gasket the second time, just lifted the head some: I can't remember if it was the first or second head gasket change, but somewhere along the way I replaced the water pump, oil pump, and PCV. During the second head gasket change I fucked up and stripped the cam idler bolt hole. It stripped out around 50Ft. Lbs, below factory spec. I got all fancy and ordered the right bolts from McMaster-Carr, M12x1.25x110. Maybe a day later I found an old Subaru bolt in my bolt bin and measured it up, M12x1.25x112. A bit longer than I wanted so I cut the end off, shaving it down to about 107mm long. It was perfect, and combined with the Helicoil insert, I was able to torque a bit above factory specs. Win. Exhaust heat shield I made, pretty simple but it works wonders. The header itself is wrapped under there too. But not in this photo. Photobucket isn't letting me upload at the moment, so I'll finish this up in a second post here soon. 2 Quote Link to comment
DaBlist Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 Keep up the good work, it'll be worth it Quote Link to comment
Noflers Posted June 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 Since I was already this deep I figured it couldn't hurt to take care of the fuel rail. It got a good cleaning with q-tips and brake cleaner, then new seals and hoses. The injectors also got a basic cleaning and new o-rings. Had to remove the throttle body to get to a loose hose clamp underneath the intake manifold. To keep my MAF and air filter from flopping around. Pretty stiff for what it is. Compression numbers Drilled and tapped a new hole for the coolant bleeder bolt. More photos Current under-hood shots 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoney Posted June 9, 2017 Report Share Posted June 9, 2017 Why don't you run the intake pipe on the inlet manifold side instead of running it across and sucking hot air from the exhaust side of the engine bay? It's done that way from Nissan as the battery on the RHS and the airbox on the left doesn't allow it for packaging design, as well as the airbox being on the exhaust side for the turbo Silvias, granted there is some talk of MAF air reversion on a shorter intake between MAF and throttle body but shouldn't be an issue. Quote Link to comment
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