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The Engineered 1UZ V8 Datsun 620 Build


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This makes me happy in my pants.

 

Mike, I'm flat-out in awe of the fabrication and engineering expertise - and a ton envious.  At 46, and recently retired, I'm just learning to weld.

 

I'm also one of the few serious Datsun collectors / restorers that will NEVER say anything negative about a motor swap (or any other custom fab) - Make it yours, make it awesome, and make the naysayers STFU.  

 

All those skills, and not a bad writer, to boot.  I'll be watching this one weekly.  

 

Go big, brother.  

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As with others I've been creeping your Instagram. It's great to see you start a build log as I think there is so much more information that can be shared this way. Though different platforms I can see we think alike in many regards. (See link in sig). I've joined Ratsun just to read the progress so keep those posts coming! (sorry if this is a duplicate post, still trying to get approved) :)

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wtf is this bullshit ?

i follow mike on the gram ... when he mentioned about a build thread on here i told him to watch out for the snarky j cock ..

you didnt know bout the binky?? where you been at lol!

 

 

 

and to the OP....hurry up looking t see somo greatness lol!

Binky is done in this thread. This guys work is just as good if not better since it involves a Datsun!

 

Can't wait to see this thing come together, glad you came to the stable.

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Thanks everyone. There is plenty of cool fab and design done already, but it will take some time for me to play catch up with this thread. I have about 10,000 raw build pictures I am currently going through to clean up and select the best ones, and I take some time to write out the story of the build in every post. 

 

 



There are probably a few that have major wood over the 3d models alone. Think of what could be done with those alone.

 

 



I for one have been wanting a 1/10 620 body for my rc crawler. :D

 

 

Lot's of other possibilities as well. 

 

I'm already ahead of you guys on this one. :)  People who follow my IG know I am an avid 3D-printing junkie, and have been having plenty of fun with the CAD data in scale form. 

 

uzGlzgC.jpg

 

Z1mQYMu.jpg

 

There will be its own chapter for the scale truck in the mix later on. I hope to keep adding to it and really make something intensely detailed that I can display at shows and on my desk. 

 

-Mike

 

 

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You should consider reserching 4-link set-up & design.

The center lines of the upper, and lower links should intersect each other at the point where the center of gravity crosses the halfway point between the axles.

They look to be lower than that in your isometric drawings.

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I only found 13 episodes and no driving on Binky. wtf, is there a finish? maybe a smokey burn out?

 

They are only up to 13.

You will just have to wait for 14 like the rest of us.

Will it ever be finished ?

Don't know with all the tea breaks they take.........

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You should consider reserching 4-link set-up & design.

The center lines of the upper, and lower links should intersect each other at the point where the center of gravity crosses the halfway point between the axles.

They look to be lower than that in your isometric drawings.

 

If you aren't taking into consideration anti-squat or off-center weight bias, then that's an easy estimated approach, sure.... Not trying to flex my experience here call people out here, but I think our years of auto-x domination in every class we race in and our proven testing and tuning has revealed that we know how to properly set up the instant center intersections, anti-squat calculations, pinon roll and climb offsets, and our estimations and approach to true center of gravity (height and forward offset) VS wheelbase placement has been working well. It's a tricky enterprise to know and understand how to use the car's weight loading properly to achieve the traction and slip you want at the rear, even more so with the weight offsets of a truck. The intended use of the truck plays a big roll in the anti-squat and weight loading characteristics of the 4-link geometry, and varys alot depending on what you actually want to achieve dynamically. While I would love to better explain the why and how we set up the geometry of systems we use, it's proprietary information we safe guard within the company and I cant skate too far into numbers without getting myself into trouble. Lets just say this isn't our first rodeo. :)

 

-Mike

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Anyone out there that wants to play with 4-link suspension, here is some good info:

 

http://performancetrends.com/4link.htm

 

http://www.pro-touring.com/threads/111964-Rear-Suspension-amp-Geometry-for-Track-Performance

 

It may not include any proprietary, championship winning exact set-up information, but it will get you in the ball park.

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I certainly don't want this thread to turn into a pissing match of any kind guys. If you go to any of my other build threads, you can see I share a considerable amount of info. methodology and procedure.  I'm certainly going to share alot of the why and how with everything I do, but you can't honestly expect to me to share hard numbers and formulas from a suspension and design company openly on a public forum. As much as I would love to just impress the few people who want to call it/me out, my job is worth more to me. I'm here to share and have fun for the others who on board with it too. 

 

-Mike

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Thanks everyone. There is plenty of cool fab and design done already, but it will take some time for me to play catch up with this thread. I have about 10,000 raw build pictures I am currently going through to clean up and select the best ones, and I take some time to write out the story of the build in every post. 

 

 

 

 

I'm already ahead of you guys on this one.  :)  People who follow my IG know I am an avid 3D-printing junkie, and have been having plenty of fun with the CAD data in scale form. 

 

 

 

Z1mQYMu.jpg

 

There will be its own chapter for the scale truck in the mix later on. I hope to keep adding to it and really make something intensely detailed that I can display at shows and on my desk. 

 

-Mike

 

 

 

 

That is awesome :D

 

 

Have you printed any body parts yet? Say at 1/10 scale to fit my axial crawler?  :lol:  

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I wasn't looking for hard numbers, just a little reasoning about what your doing.

Besides, hard numbers only work on the vehical they were developed on.

Things like tire size/design/air pressure, tack surface, other suspension info, like spring & dampening rates, and daily weather conditions all play into the final hard numbers.

 

But good luck on your quest to have the ultimate Auto-X car.

I myself prefer a good shifter, or dual engine kart for an Auto-X.

Always proves faster that all out auto-x specialty vehicals.

Probably why for many years, SCCA banned karts from running their Auto-X events.

Glad they finally decided to let them run again.

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That is awesome :D

 

 

Have you printed any body parts yet? Say at 1/10 scale to fit my axial crawler?   :lol:

 

Haha, thanks guy. I haven't gotten into any body parts yet. The scan I took of the entire body and bed was actually done very recently, after I had already designed and fabricated the chassis. I scanned the truck for fun, but to also get the leg up on fender flare and interior layout design. 

 

I would love to model the exterior body panels one by one, but time is always my greatest hurdle. Surface modeling and matching the scan profiles will be time consuming and tedious to do very well with the programs I use; they are not geared toward splined and curved surface modeling although they can certainly be done using them. This model is 1:7 scale, so body part prints would be large, but I hope to make it happen. If I do find the time the model the body panels accurately from the scans, I do hope to make them available on thingiverse.com for printing and modifying for free. Would love to see RC 620's in full detail!

 

-Mike

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I like to look at it like this...

 

He obviously knows what he's doing much like the average mother does in the kitchen. When he says that's all the info be can give, its like your mom telling her friends "no you can't have my recipe."

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I wasn't looking for hard numbers, just a little reasoning about what your doing.

Besides, hard numbers only work on the vehical they were developed on.

Things like tire size/design/air pressure, tack surface, other suspension info, like spring & dampening rates, and daily weather conditions all play into the final hard numbers.

 

But good luck on your quest to have the ultimate Auto-X car.

I myself prefer a good shifter, or dual engine kart for an Auto-X.

Always proves faster that all out auto-x specialty vehicals.

Probably why for many years, SCCA banned karts from running their Auto-X events.

Glad they finally decided to let them run again.

 

I really wish I could have gotten into karting as a kid, but my parents weren't too keen on it. We had a neighbor who always had karts on stands in his shop when we were very young, and we would always spy on him tinkering on the weekends. I'm definitely going to explain the details I think you and alot of people would be curious about when I get into the design chapters, but I just have to be careful not to step out of bounds with work-related info. I'll explain it in better detail when I get into the chapters about it, but this truck design isn't entirely geared toward performance and auto-x exclusivity. I am an experienced designer, but I am a beginning welder and fabricator. I am trying to do alot of new and interesting fab projects on the truck to challenge myself and try to get better, but I will be working exclusively with steel for almost all of it for the familiarity and cost. Admittedly, the truck will be heavier than a proper competitive truck, and considerably underpowered. I will be lucky I think to see past 300HP/TQ to the rear wheels on a junkyard 1UZ V8, even with the ITB's, cams and a standalone. The goal wasn't ultimate power or numbers bragging rights. I really am doing this truck for the experience and to have a fun truck to do some events in and try to improve my short track driving, but also cruise and enjoy whenever I can. 

 

Its somewhat sweet revenge/humor for alot of the guys in the shop to see me struggle with fabricating and welding the more complicated designs I make for them on a daily basis! Hopefully I can earn more of their respect in the end!

 

-Mike

  • Like 8
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Want to see the ITBs on that thing, better yet a Youtube vid with good sound.

Several people on the Cressida forums go to 1UZs, but then get discouraged with it's stock power output, and switch over to a 1JZ turbo.

I try to tell them to spend the extra $$ on cams, and ITBs, but they never see the light.

 

You missed out on the golden age of karts, when ingenuity, and hard work was the path to winning.

Now everything has gone to spec engines, where everyone can be competitive without knowing how to change a spark plug.

Fortunately for me, the local track here still has a run what you brung class, as long as it was a legal kart somewhere in the past.

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My friend Tyler (510T on here) and I were talking about this build and how awesome it is the other day and there was one thing that neither of us could figure out.  With so much effort put into the suspension design, why the choice to run drag radials on all 4 corners?  Is it purely for aesthetics?  Is there some handling characteristic that they provide that you have designed in?

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