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'72 1200 Sedan project, aka Little Ricky


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Google image search -> Truck Arm Suspension -> B)

 

Oh sure, expect me to try or whatever. NO! I DEMAND SPOON FEEDING!!!

 

So will you triangulate the bars or rely on the panhard for lateral stability?

 

I'm not wrapping my brain around using the stock leaf mounts, which point straight ahead, to mount an angled bar. Although you do like heim joints. So maybe one of those offset to one side would clear mount?

 

Anywho, love 1200s, love watching you two work, so I'm interested to see this develop.

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So will you triangulate the bars or rely on the panhard for lateral stability?

 

I'm not wrapping my brain around using the stock leaf mounts, which point straight ahead, to mount an angled bar. 

 

Mine won't really be angled. Not sure I can explain it, but here goes...

 

Imagine a flat bar (thinking 1"x3" thick wall box steel) from the axle leaf spring pad to the stock front leaf spring bolt (will weld a tube to the end of the bar using stock leaf spring bushings). They will go basically straight ahead. Using stock U-bolts to mount it at the rear. this should prevent fore and aft movement, drastically limit axle wrap (moreso than a leaf spring), and eliminate maybe 80-90% of side-to-side movement. The Panhard rod will eliminate any remaining side-to-side movement. 

 

On a side tangent to this side tangent, we've always wanted to try and build a Watts link. We might do that instead of a Panhard. 

 

A Panhard rod will allow some side-to-pside movement as it moves through the suspension range, so it would require fairly stiff springs to work or it could possibly cause binding if my forward links are as hard to shift sideways as I think they'll be.

 

panhard_displacement.jpg

 

 

 

A Watts link keeps the axle centered during movement, but is a bit more complex to engineer and fab. It would provide a superior ride though...

 

2015-08-14_23-18-57-640x430.jpg

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Or more to the point, my two long bars will basically function as half a leaf spring. Although not be as bendy as a leaf spring. 

 

Imagine you cut off the back half of the leaf spring, then used a Panhard to keep it from squirming around.

 

I once saw a chevette with a 500cid caddy engine. They did a very similar suspension to what you are describing, except that they did use leaf springs. They were the front half of some hurky ass F150 springs or something. It seemed to work pretty well.

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Datsunfreak is just a closet NASCAR fan.

 

:rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:

 

Well, their rules insist on a live axle, and they've spent millions on developing this design because I guess they think it's best? Who knows...   :P

 

We may just say fuck it and do a 4 link like Tim's monster truck 1200...

 

Step #1 is going to be seeing if the shock towers have enough room for coilovers. It looks really tight in there. Not as spacious as a 510. Any sedan owners want to chime in?

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:rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:

 

Well, their rules insist on a live axle, and they've spent millions on developing this design because I guess they think it's best? Who knows...   :P

 

 

So that's why my 65 C20 handles like it's on rails

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So that's why my 65 C20 handles like it's on rails

 

You can actually make those handle quite well. This one did...

 

1782012_870865976325861_6344706004288635

 

 

The usual springs/shocks/sway bars and a few other tweaks and it doesn't really drive like a "truck" any more...

 

Of course, you can't really haul anything with it then...   :rofl:

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Google image search -> Truck Arm Suspension ->  B)

 

TruckArmRearSuspension.jpg

 

 

It's basically a 3 link. I'd build two bars to go from the axle to the stock leaf spring mounts with a coilover mount on the end of the bar just behind the axle tube. Then add a panhard bar for location insurance.  :thumbup:

 

This looks...terrible.

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This looks...terrible.

 

Well, my design would look very little like this. Arms wold be a LOT shorter and connected at the stock front leaf spring mount, not in the center of the car.

 

But the more I think about my design, the more I realize I am turning the axle into one giant (and very stiff) sway bar. The rear suspension would have very little independence side-to-side. A bump on one side would lift the other wheel, and body roll would be almost non-existent. Which sounds good, until you drive it. It would be great for drifting though...   :rofl:

 

May go back to 4-link thinking, or punt and do something later. Who knows...

 

The cart is well and truly in front of the horse right now. Need to fix the floors and build the front suspension first. Then look at what we'll do out back...

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Well, my design would look very little like this. Arms wold be a LOT shorter and connected at the stock front leaf spring mount, not in the center of the car.

 

But the more I think about my design, the more I realize I am turning the axle into one giant (and very stiff) sway bar. The rear suspension would have very little independence side-to-side. A bump on one side would lift the other wheel, and body roll would be almost non-existent. Which sounds good, until you drive it. It would be great for drifting though...   :rofl:

 

May go back to 4-link thinking, or punt and do something later. Who knows...

 

The cart is well and truly in front of the horse right now. Need to fix the floors and build the front suspension first. Then look at what we'll do out back...

Yep, truck arm style only works with flexible arms and the forward mounting points close together. Functions similar to a basic torque arm that doesn't use upper links. Long arms are needed for limiting pinion angle change. Just a spin on an old design

 

IMG_0436.jpg

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This looks...terrible.

 

 

Poor execution...

 

 

It's really just a radius arm suspension used in the rear. You can get really long arms to limit the angles through suspension travel. 

 

Not sure how long you could make them in a 1200 as opposed to a C10 though :lol: 

 

0709st_46_z%2Bsuspension_buyers_guide%2B

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:rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:

 

Well, their rules insist on a live axle, and they've spent millions on developing this design because I guess they think it's best? Who knows...   :P

 

We may just say fuck it and do a 4 link like Tim's monster truck 1200...

 

Step #1 is going to be seeing if the shock towers have enough room for coilovers. It looks really tight in there. Not as spacious as a 510. Any sedan owners want to chime in?

The shock towers in a 1200 Sedan have very little clearance. I would be surprised if there was room for a coilover. If there is, I would give it a shot!

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You can actually make those handle quite well. This one did...

 

1782012_870865976325861_6344706004288635

 

 

The usual springs/shocks/sway bars and a few other tweaks and it doesn't really drive like a "truck" any more...

 

Of course, you can't really haul anything with it then...   :rofl:

You can't really haul anything with it then... other than hauling ASS!!

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Another dumb idea...

 

Was staring at a photo of a flared DR30 for too long...

 

R30Skyline.jpg

 

Started wondering what that black and red two-tone would look like on a 1200...

 

Problem is, the best place to two-tone a 1200 is at the body line. Which is height-wise even with most flares, so you don't really get the humps to break it up. Then remembered about the race cars flares that come about 4-5" above the body line...

 

00032c23a0c09b20b90df3c5e09f90e8.jpg

 

newYearMeeting2010-042-549_nissanSunnyB1

 

 

So?   ^_^

 

 

 

Next level to this bit would be, instead of the lettering that comes on the DR30...

 

so101292fd4f55fb888c9a7.jpg

 

 

That says 4 VALVE DOHC RS TURBO,  maybe some gold letters that say 2 VALVE SUHC RS ATMO?   :rofl:

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