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MaxChlan

Max's 1986 Nissan 720 King Cab 4x4

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Yes change the waterpump with an OEM one.

 

I'm taking it that you are pulling the engine because you said you were doing the oil pan gasket.

 

You've pulled the engine for the clutch so you been there before.

 

I agree with bottomwatcher to replace all the wear parts while you have the engine out.  It's hell easier.

 

As DatsunMike has stated go with OEM parts first. Good advice.

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Yes change the waterpump with an OEM one.

 

I'm taking it that you are pulling the engine because you said you were doing the oil pan gasket.

 

You've pulled the engine for the clutch so you been there before.

 

I agree with bottomwatcher to replace all the wear parts while you have the engine out.  It's hell easier.

 

As DatsunMike has stated go with OEM parts first. Good advice.

The oil pan gasket is a maybe. I did not pull the engine when I did the clutch; I have access to a lift so we just removed the cross-member and dropped the trans.

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Pull the cross member out that is under the engine to remove the oil pan.

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If you can change out the oil pan gasket without having to break the seals on the a/c that is the way to go.

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Sometimes you get lucky and buy a Beck Arnely parts and they are Japanese parts . No way to tell though from Rock auto or wherever. Cast impeller is better for moving coolant .

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Does anyone know of a write up for a timing chain replacement on here? Information on where to set timing marks on the camshaft sprocket would be useful.

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Does anyone know of a write up for a timing chain replacement on here? Information on where to set timing marks on the camshaft sprocket would be useful.

Always line up bright link on chain near camshaft with #2 hole on camshaft sprocket. The bottom only fits one way because it's keyed and there's only one mark on crankshaft sprocket. I made a video, but it's kinda long and outlines the ENTIRE process start to finish. Torque spec notes are in vid description and helpful info is present in the comments.

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Also if you put your socket driver on a 27 mil and then put that on the front lower pully and turn the starter it comes off because the socket driver braces against the framerail and it breaks it loose. Also if, when assembling or disassembling, you need to remove the cam sprocket then place a long socket extension in the cam sprocket hole and use your breaker bar to loosen bolt that holds cam sprocket on, remove this AFTER Timing chain tensioner is removed. If using the socket extension method to remove cam sprocket ensure that you place a rag between extension and head or you will scuff it.

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Thank you! Removing the timing chain when you have the water pump off seems fairly straight forward; I just need to make sure that the engine is TDC Cyl. #1, pull the timing cover, mark the chain and sprocket, and release the tensioner, correct? Also, this is a non-interference motor, correct? 

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If the chain falls off the pistons and valves hit each other.

 

Only turn it a little bit with chain off, but you will put it at TDC for head gasket anyways. Make sure that you replace chain and sprockets too, because the chains stretch.

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Yeah, I have a timing kit on it's way; I am taking the head off today so that I can take it to my guy to make sure it's leveled and to replace the valve seals

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Yeah, I have a timing kit on it's way; I am taking the head off today so that I can take it to my guy to make sure it's leveled and to replace the valve seals

Sounds like you've got a pretty good handle on things!

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Sounds like you've got a pretty good handle on things!

I'm hoping so!! My nickname is struggles so you never really know. Sometimes I do well, other times it takes me 20 minutes to remove a hose. Ya never know which one you're gonna get. They didn't teach me anything about cars in my accounting classes  :rofl:

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Hey those lower rad hoses are really awful to remove, now I just pull the radiator and leave the hose on then replace hose outside of car.

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You are correct about the bottom radiator hose on the 720.

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The head is off! I elected to take off the head and intake as one unit, and then remove the intake while the head was off the truck. It was easier to get at the bolts. Here are some pictures:

 

JVq4cL1.jpg

 

I think I found my issue!

xiVlRfr.jpg

 

FI2M1bD.jpg

 

Lnvev9r.jpg

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Looking good man!

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I prefer pulling the engine and setting it on an engine stand. I do not like to lean over the fender mty belly gets in the way! LOL

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Does anyone have any experience with the Fel-Pro or Mahle timing cover gaskets? Nissan doesn't make the timing gasket anymore, but I was able to source everything else from Nissan. This is the last bit I need before I can start putting my truck back together

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The fel pro ones work but sometimes need a little adjusting, OSK kit comes with really good ones though

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Well, now comes the hard part. After a few weeks of acquiring parts, I have most of what I need. The head was cleaned and milled with new valve guide seals. Every mating surface was cleaned, new timing components installed, and then came the most fun part: putting the cover on while not having the chain slip off. The block of wood thing worked, but I had to make my block narrower than what I've read. It worked, ish. I wish Nissan would have made a little dowel or something that kept the pressure on the tensioner while you installed the timing cover. Anyway, I am missing a few bolts for the timing cover, most chiefly one of the two bolts that holds the bottom of the cover on to the block. Looks like I'll have to scavenge for them or spend some money to order *more* shit from NissanPartsDeal *sigh*

 

aOOFhDR.jpg

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Wait hold on, not to be rude but why would you put on the timing parts before the head? I have never done it that way because it creates the difficulty you are speaking off. If you put the head on, then the timing parts, then the timing cover, then the manifolds. It all works out super easy. Also just get new bolts from the hardware store.

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