MaxChlan Posted December 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 UPDATE: The 15" Xterra rims did not fit on the vehicle (just a hair too wide, and let this serve as a warning, unless you get the 16" rims), so I picked up some FREE rims off of a '96 Pathfinder. Got them mounted, and now we're sittin' pretty. I love the look of the smaller rims and tires (General Altimax Arctic 205 70r15) as opposed to the bigger ones, plus the truck accelerates and turns better without all that rubber. Here is a silly dark picture (My house matches my truck, hahaha) 1 Quote Link to comment
MaxChlan Posted December 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2016 As it's getting colder out, I've realized that my truck has difficulty idling when cold. This morning I checked the choke plate, and it was completely closed. Firing the engine up (one or two pumps, holding it halfway and turn it over, per the Owner's Manual), it'll chill at 1000 RPMs for one or two seconds before going down to 500 or even 400. From what I'm gathering, my choke seems to be working okay, but my fast idle cam isn't engaging. I checked hoses, and everything is tight with no leaks. Once the vehicle is warm, it runs absolutely fine, idling at around 800 where it should. Does anyone have any other ideas? Could someone show me how to adjust the fast idle? 1 Quote Link to comment
MaxChlan Posted December 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 Got a nice dusting of about five or six inches of snow this weekend here in the cities. Didn't even have to shift into 4WD with these snow tires on. Here are some pictures I took after doing a few skids around the parking lot: I am going to make a habit out of taking a rag and cleaning the underside and in the wheel wells after I drive. Weekly washes will help too hopefully.A few questions about the 4WD system: When I engage 4H, roll about 3 meters and lock the hubs, and then put it back into 2H, can I switch into 4WD while moving and likewise as needed? I did not try it, but I do not want to be rolling around in 4H much unless I absolutely need to, but it's nice to be able to use it to pull out from a stop. 1 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted December 12, 2016 Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Auto hubs should remained locked after initial engagement. So you pull it into 4, pull forward till they lock, then shift out of 4 and you should have shift on the fly. You have to back up like 10 feet or something to unlock, then you'll have to stop to engage 4 2 Quote Link to comment
MaxChlan Posted December 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2016 Cool! Good to know! 1 Quote Link to comment
MaxChlan Posted December 17, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2016 Well, I went to adjust the fast idle screw because it was not engaging, only to realize that it wasn't there. Does anyone know what size of screw it is? Or, would anyone be willing to mail me a "letter" with the screw off of their old stock carb? 1 Quote Link to comment
la_leo Posted December 19, 2016 Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 Well, I went to adjust the fast idle screw because it was not engaging, only to realize that it wasn't there. Does anyone know what size of screw it is? Or, would anyone be willing to mail me a "letter" with the screw off of their old stock carb? you might put up a part number on a diagram like I've been doing. I think the website is nissan parts deal 1 Quote Link to comment
MaxChlan Posted December 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 you might put up a part number on a diagram like I've been doing. I think the website is nissan parts deal I've looked, and the part is discontinued. :blush: 1 Quote Link to comment
la_leo Posted December 19, 2016 Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 I've looked, and the part is discontinued. :blush: We have a fastenall here in town. They make every single bolt/screw that you can imagine. Check any specialty fastener store. 1 Quote Link to comment
MaxChlan Posted December 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 We have a fastenall here in town. They make every single bolt/screw that you can imagine. Check any specialty fastener store. Yeah, if I had the size of the screw, I would hit up a local hardware store and grab one (I'm sure it's metric), but I don't have a clue as to what it is or what it looks like, and NissanPartsDeal only says part numbers and not sizes of screws and things like that. 1 Quote Link to comment
la_leo Posted December 19, 2016 Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 Yeah, if I had the size of the screw, I would hit up a local hardware store and grab one (I'm sure it's metric), but I don't have a clue as to what it is or what it looks like, and NissanPartsDeal only says part numbers and not sizes of screws and things like that. Prob an M8 or M6. If I have time I'll pull mine out and take a pic for ya. 2 Quote Link to comment
MaxChlan Posted December 19, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2016 Prob an M8 or M6. If I have time I'll pull mine out and take a pic for ya. I would really appreciate that. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted December 20, 2016 Report Share Posted December 20, 2016 I personally would not buy that wheel, if you look close at the hub there are 3 out of five veiwable screws are broken off in the hub. This is a common acurance when trying to seperate the hub from the wheel. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-720-1980-86-Steering-wheel-OEM-/152337066684?hash=item2377ff2abc:g:UugAAOSw-CpX~uIl&vxp=mtr 1 Quote Link to comment
MaxChlan Posted December 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2016 I personally would not buy that wheel, if you look close at the hub there are 3 out of five veiwable screws are broken off in the hub. This is a common acurance when trying to seperate the hub from the wheel. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-720-1980-86-Steering-wheel-OEM-/152337066684?hash=item2377ff2abc:g:UugAAOSw-CpX~uIl&vxp=mtr Good catch Charlie. I wasn't going to buy it anyway; waaay to expensive. I'd rather get something from Grant, NRG, or Royal 1 Quote Link to comment
MaxChlan Posted December 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2016 Still no word on what the measurements are on the fast idle screw. An extensive search has lead me to no results... Anyone got an extra? :confused: 1 Quote Link to comment
la_leo Posted December 23, 2016 Report Share Posted December 23, 2016 No luck on that hitachi site? Were you able to pull of the numbers on your carb? 1 Quote Link to comment
MaxChlan Posted December 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2016 No luck. I emailed the website asking for some help, and they simply said no. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted December 26, 2016 Report Share Posted December 26, 2016 This is the fast idle cam (light colored plastic thing) The fast idle adjustment screw is shown with it's locking nut. When started cold with the choke on the fast idle sits on the highest step on the cam. as the choke warms the cam rotates and the fast idle drops progressively to lower and lower steps until it drops odd completely and the idle speed screw on the throttle takes over. This screw is practically impossible to get at with the can on the vehicle. 16065-W8800 looks like it is used all Z 20/22/24 carburetors. 2 Quote Link to comment
MaxChlan Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 After purchasing this to replace the Power steering idler pulley, I discovered that it was too big for the application. The original has a 17mm (11/16th inch) bore for the bearing, and about a 76 mm diameter, and this one is... too large. I can not find the original Nissan part number after looking at NissanPartsDeal, and I can not find a similar pulley with the correct dimensions. Does anyone have any ideas? Here is a picture of what I am talking about (this is a diagram for a hardbody) and here is a picture of it in the engine bay (from Lockleaf's 720 thread) 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 I will bring a spare pulley in to work tomorrow (oreilly auto) and do some searching for you. 1 Quote Link to comment
MaxChlan Posted January 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 I will bring a spare pulley in to work tomorrow (oreilly auto) and do some searching for you. That would be excellent. I think I found what I'm looking for, so maybe confirm it for me. This is the part I think it is, and it's dimensions are as follows off of Gates' website: Width: 18mm Bearing Bore inside Diameter: 17mm Outside Diameter: 81mm 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 14, 2017 Report Share Posted January 14, 2017 I have that part number on hand, so I will compare tomorrow. 2 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted January 15, 2017 Report Share Posted January 15, 2017 I forgot. I will try Monday. 2 Quote Link to comment
MaxChlan Posted January 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 16, 2017 So, when I was pulling in tonight, I think my idle tensioner pulley finally took a crap. I got a low idle and a pretty strong rubber burning smell, which to me seems like the idle tensioner pulley seized up. However, it still turns when in the garage, but that was according to my girlfriend and not my own eyes. I'll take a look at it tomorrow because it's too late, but I just wanted to post it. Maybe I tightened the belt tensioner too tight as well, I'm not sure. Just wanted to throw that out there for some confirmation, and see if that's happened to anyone. I went ahead and ordered that Gates pulley; and it should be here Tuesday. Free Amazon returns are super convenient. 1 Quote Link to comment
MaxChlan Posted January 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 Update on the belt issue: My Power Steering Idle Pulley bearing seized up, and it was kind of a pain to find a new one. I ended up purchasing a new one (the correct one on Amazon is here). There is some sort of spacer in the factory pulley that needs to be pressed out and pressed into the new one to get it to fit on the bolt properly. I put the convex blue dust jacket from the back side of the old one on the the back side of the new one, and there you go! Nice new tensioner. What you could also do is replace the bearing on the old pulley. The bearing is a 6203z, which are pretty inexpensive and easy to find. Kind of makes me want to replace all of the bearings, because it runs much quieter now! Anyway, hopefully someone finds this useful because it was a lot of messing around to get the correct pulley. 1 Quote Link to comment
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