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B310 Roll Call!!


dukerollo

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I just bought a 81 210 Wagon 2 weeks ago for $900. It's a little beat up but has 83k on it so not really all that bad. The previous owner had just put a new head gasket on it so I had to do a little adjustments and tune it up but otherwise just drove it around for a solid week and she purrs. It's an A15 5 speed but needs A/c added. Once I do that I'm looking to efi it and fix the body up. Want to do a round eye conversion from a 79. Eventually I'll post pics! I'm a long time b110 owner, so this is a real treat for me to have a newer wagon. I first need to address it's overheating issue. Radiator is in good shape but even without a thermostat once you get going on the freeway it heats up slowly to over the halfway Mark and wants to keep getting hotter if you don't slow down or coast in neutral. Hope to get an aluminum one in there. Love this car though!

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The PO may have thought the over heating was the head gasket... sadly over heating can be caused by many things.I would never recommend running an engine without a thermostat. If it runs cooler without it then there is something else wrong with it.

 

Over heating can be broken down int two causes. Lack of coolant flow or lack of air flow.

 

 

Coolant.

 

Is the fan belt tight? undamaged and in good shape?

 

Is the heater by-passed and the hose looped? If so, cap both ends off so there is no coolant flow from the engine to the water pump.

 

Is either of the rad hoses kinked?

 

*Lower the coolant level to expose the top of the core. Is it clean and clear of hard water scale build up? Always use antifreeze/coolant.

 

Watch the lower hose and rev the engine high. Does the lower hose collapse from the suction? This can be from the hose being soft. (They rot from the inside out and it may look fine) The rad core may be plugged forcing the water pump to suck harder and collapse the hose.

 

 

Air

 

Clutch fan... does it spin freely? It shouldn't. It should be firm to turn but turn smoothly.

 

Are the exterior rad fins clear of dirt, bugs and leaves/pine needles. Plastic bags?

 

Is the rad shroud on? Shrouds increase rad efficiency.

 

Is the grill obstructed? Fog lights? any modifications?

 

Is there an air gap below the rad. Does the hood have a rubber air dam on it that when closed, seals off air flow over the rad top? Air should not be allowed to get around the rad, only through it.

 

 

Other.....

 

Lean air/fuel ratios will cause the engine to run warmer

 

Retarded ignition timing will dump huge amounts of heat into exhaust ports and into the cooling system.

 

Brake(s) dragging? Front calipers stuck? Rear drums too tight? Raise each wheel and see if they will spin by hand.

 

 

* if scaly, remove rad and with the cap on and it turned up, fill with CLR over night to dissolve the scale.

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Andy? 

 

I just bought a 81 210 Wagon 2 weeks ago for $900. It's a little beat up but has 83k on it so not really all that bad. The previous owner had just put a new head gasket on it so I had to do a little adjustments and tune it up but otherwise just drove it around for a solid week and she purrs. It's an A15 5 speed but needs A/c added. Once I do that I'm looking to efi it and fix the body up. Want to do a round eye conversion from a 79. Eventually I'll post pics! I'm a long time b110 owner, so this is a real treat for me to have a newer wagon. I first need to address it's overheating issue. Radiator is in good shape but even without a thermostat once you get going on the freeway it heats up slowly to over the halfway Mark and wants to keep getting hotter if you don't slow down or coast in neutral. Hope to get an aluminum one in there. Love this car though!

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Actually yeah the bottom hose you can see it starting to collapse somewhat when it's revving high, but it wasn't fully collapsing. Since I am not with the car, my buddy is pulling the radiator out this weekend to have it checked and cleaned by Performance Radiator in Tacoma (big name radiator business). If It still overheats will probably order some silicone hoses and if it still does after that will order a new radiator. Everything else checks out good, I've already gone over it all including timing and tune.

 

The PO may have thought the over heating was the head gasket... sadly over heating can be caused by many things.I would never recommend running an engine without a thermostat. If it runs cooler without it then there is something else wrong with it.

 

Over heating can be broken down int two causes. Lack of coolant flow or lack of air flow.

 

 

Coolant.

 

Is the fan belt tight? undamaged and in good shape?

 

Is the heater by-passed and the hose looped? If so, cap both ends off so there is no coolant flow from the engine to the water pump.

 

Is either of the rad hoses kinked?

 

*Lower the coolant level to expose the top of the core. Is it clean and clear of hard water scale build up? Always use antifreeze/coolant.

 

Watch the lower hose and rev the engine high. Does the lower hose collapse from the suction? This can be from the hose being soft. (They rot from the inside out and it may look fine) The rad core may be plugged forcing the water pump to suck harder and collapse the hose.

 

 

Air

 

Clutch fan... does it spin freely? It shouldn't. It should be firm to turn but turn smoothly.

 

Are the exterior rad fins clear of dirt, bugs and leaves/pine needles. Plastic bags?

 

Is the rad shroud on? Shrouds increase rad efficiency.

 

Is the grill obstructed? Fog lights? any modifications?

 

Is there an air gap below the rad. Does the hood have a rubber air dam on it that when closed, seals off air flow over the rad top? Air should not be allowed to get around the rad, only through it.

 

 

Other.....

 

Lean air/fuel ratios will cause the engine to run warmer

 

Retarded ignition timing will dump huge amounts of heat into exhaust ports and into the cooling system.

 

Brake(s) dragging? Front calipers stuck? Rear drums too tight? Raise each wheel and see if they will spin by hand.

 

 

* if scaly, remove rad and with the cap on and it turned up, fill with CLR over night to dissolve the scale.

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  • 2 weeks later...

What's going on here? Details please.

Edit: never mind, I found your thread. Still, more details please.

1979 Datsun 210 aka B310

Jdm sunny grille badges and side markers

Holeshot wheels

Aerospace components brakes

280zx master cylinder

T3 camber plates and roll center adjusters mounted on shortened b210 strut casings with 280zx inserts

T3 steering box brace

1980 510 crossmember

8gal fuel cell

Nardi steering wheel

Tenzo R bucket seats

 

Engine:

Sr20det red top block

p11 sr20ve head

sr16ve internals (crank+rods)

CP pistons 11to1 bored to 87mm

Mazworx head studs and cometic head gasket

N1 cams with supertech springs and retainers

Bmw m3 50mm itbs

550cc injectors

Custom 4to1 header

Xtd flywheel 10lbs

Competition Clutch and pressure plate

Haltech ecu management

K20 coil on plugs

Taarks single vvl solenoid plate

 

Drivetrain:

Transmission fs5w71c out of a 1992 hardbody with sr20 bellhousing

Ford 9" rear end with adjustable arms

Moser 35 spline axles

Custom driveshaft

 

I think that sums it up lolol

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