drowning in broken cars Posted July 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 Welding up a Driveshaft Finished Driveshaft Current engine bay, manifold is just mocked up All Ive got for the moment but making progress. 3 Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted July 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2016 Bunch of pics of fitting the radiator up front today. Needed a lot of coaxing to fit. first cutting/modding the grill a bit. Then the hood: [/url] Adding a piece for the radiator to land on had to notch out the top of the front lip a bit then, Beer still have to notch hood structure a little more for the hood to close another 1/4 inch but pretty much done. 2 Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted July 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 Hey all, havent posted in a while, havent been able to work on the car because i got lyme disease and have been sick for a couple weeks. really sucked. But Im feeling way better and am ready to get back to the build. got a little sidetracked from the project this week because I was helping a buddy put together his rb26 for his drift car, throwing a couple pics up for funzies shiny forged goodness before head went on this might interest some of you...lol Finally, screwed around for a minute after work and welded up my shifter for the 210, Datsun top 3/4 of shifter with the sc300 w58 shifter base for that long spindly rat rod shifterness that's all for now but il be back at it soon, lots of things to do, weld up a trans mount, run all new brake lines, fat mat the firewall, etc 2 Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted July 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 I also feel like I should outline my build a little, probably shouldve done so at the beginning motor is a 150~k 2jzge from a 95 sc300, stock except for arp headstuds and a twin turbo headgasket which drops compression from 10 to 9. using 7mgte ecu, wiring, and electronics, 440cc injectors. already wired in an aem fuel and ignition controller for tuning purposes. planning on running 10 lbs to start with. looking at going with a competition stg 4 clutch, eaton locker or helical lsd for the dana 30 already in the car, pair of 255/60/15 mickey t's for the rear. rear brakes are volvo 2 piston discs and the fronts are celica supra struts/spindles/brakes. shooting for 300-350whp as an initial goal, dont even know if Il ever want more than that. 2 Quote Link to comment
The Engine Room Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 I would recommend using the Stage 2 Comp Clutch. It drives a LOT better than the stage 4; especially since you have it in such a lightweight car. 1 Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted July 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 im just wondering about holding power. the stg 4 is rated for 380-390tq which is a little more than i want but the stg 2 ones if i remember right "arent reccommended for forced induction" and were rated for about 250tq... id rather overbuild than underbuild as the price isnt much different. the last clutch i had in the car was a spec stg 3 rated for about the same, 380~ tq and an 11 lb flywheel and it drove like a dream 1 Quote Link to comment
The Engine Room Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 A lot of that is marketing hogwash. The ceramic material is only worth about a 15% increase in holding power so, if the stage 4 is good for 380, the stage 2 is good for 320+ (those numbers are for a 3600 lbs lexus). The clutch transmits torque, not boost. I've been using a stage 2 EVO well over the "recommended" power for several years now and it has held up fine. Your call though. 1 Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted July 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 so the stage 4 is rated at 250% increase, 350 wtq stage 2 is rated for 80% increase, no torque numbers given that i could find.( edit: just found the rating of 250wtq) you may be right about the marketing and ass covering hogwash. i wish they made something in between... a stage 3 maybe ? lol. i do know that i will be launching this car hard and beating on it when i drive it so im leaning towards a 6 puck disc for longevity 1 Quote Link to comment
The Engine Room Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 Which transmission are you using? 1 Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted July 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 sc300 w58 1 Quote Link to comment
The Engine Room Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 I've got a stage 4 rigid disc that I'll just give you (it's a leftover from a Tacoma that I talked someone out of the stage 4). That way you can try it both ways and report back. Pm me if you're interested. 1 Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted July 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 awesome im definitely interested 1 Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted July 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2016 did a bit more on the car, nothing too exciting just soundproofing the firewall, patching the pass side floor yea shes got some cancer in spots patched up minus one spot that I still need to get drivers floor I patched a few years ago 1 Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted August 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 Once again, not very exciting but today I pulled the control arms off and burnt the bushings out, pressed new ones in, ground em down and painted them. ordered center link,,idler arm, ball joint, tie rod ends, and front pads and slotted rotors for the celica supra brakes Il be running. Side note I don't have a press so I got crafty with a bottle jack and the under side of a truck frame and pressed them in like a boss. Little shot of some intercooler piping mocking up 1 Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted August 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2016 update, got some parts in the mail finally, and scored a sweet eaton g80 locker from a volvo 940 the other day. tore the diff down to mod it a bit: this is the governor pawl that lets the diff lock. the counterweight on it disengages at around 25 so that the diff cant lock above that speed. counterweight cut off, now diff can lock under wheelspin at any speed. back together, checked for locking, good to go! got some new steering and suspension components, gonna paint them up before they rust all up finally, heres the brake setup I'm running in the front, cant put on car though til I get strut inserts/build coilovers.... that's all for now but will be throwing the diff in soon, buttoning up front end, steering, brakes, brakelines yada yada 3 Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted September 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2016 Made some more progress with the car, finished up my trans mounting points and welded em to the car. that was the last thing I needed the engine/trans in place for so then I pulled it out, got the bay all painted up, and did a bunch of painting/rustproofing underneath while trans was out of way. ] then, chucked it all back in ( not for the last time, still have to pull it out one more time for clutch) but not before pulling down subframe and painting that. mocked up some intrcooler stuff and ran a little body wiring. that's all for now folks! 3 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 What the hell am I watching?! Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted September 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 I not really sure how to answer that haha... Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted September 2, 2016 Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 So, question... Your rear brakes are 2 pistons. Your fronts are single caliper. Um...why not better front brakes? Seems like youd want way more whoa down with a 2JZ. Maybe that's just me and my desire to survive. Who knows? Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted September 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2016 Well the rears are small 2 piston brakes, small pad rotor etc, fronts are decently large single pistons, pads rotors. It should stop pretty well with these they braked my 3000lb celica supra very adequately. Quote Link to comment
jesusno2 Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 Nice build. That gov lock might give ya some greif if your hard on it. Ive broke a few of those so have some freinds of mine as well. Quote Link to comment
spdcrazy Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 and here I thought I was going to open a thread where someone says they are gonna do something, they cut up a datto and the thread ends up dead, just like the vehicle. boy was I wrong. this is coming along nicely! props! 1 Quote Link to comment
S30Jay Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 This is coming along nicely! That 2j looks right at home in there, you're in for a fun car at the end of all this. Quote Link to comment
drowning in broken cars Posted September 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Thanks guys appreciate the encouragement for sure. Still tons to do. Yea I heard that in the volvo world these diffs arent bulletproof and break with abuse/drag racing as well as axles. Im hoping that with considerably less weight and maybe a little finesse haha, it will last. Who knows.. i guess time will tell. Quote Link to comment
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