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Helping Jay Z move into my 210


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Bunch of pics of fitting the radiator up front today. Needed a lot of coaxing to fit. first cutting/modding the grill a bit.

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Then the hood:

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Adding a piece for the radiator to land on

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had to notch out the top of the front lip a bit

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then, Beer

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still have to notch hood structure a little more for the hood to close another 1/4 inch but pretty much done.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey all, havent posted in a while, havent been able to work on the car because i got lyme disease and have been sick for a couple weeks. really sucked. But Im feeling way better and am ready to get back to the build. got a little sidetracked from the project this week because I was helping a buddy put together his rb26 for his drift car, throwing a couple pics up for funzies

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shiny forged goodness before head went on

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this might interest some of you...lol

 

Finally, screwed around for a minute after work and welded up my shifter for the 210, Datsun top 3/4 of shifter with the sc300 w58 shifter base for that long spindly rat rod shifterness

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that's all for now but il be back at it soon, lots of things to do, weld up a trans mount, run all new brake lines, fat mat the firewall, etc

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I also feel like I should outline my build a little, probably shouldve done so at the beginning

motor is a 150~k 2jzge from a 95 sc300, stock except for arp headstuds and a twin turbo headgasket which drops compression from 10 to 9. using 7mgte ecu, wiring, and electronics, 440cc injectors. already wired in an aem fuel and ignition controller for tuning purposes. planning on running 10 lbs to start with. looking at going with a competition stg 4 clutch, eaton locker or helical lsd for the dana 30 already in the car, pair of 255/60/15 mickey t's for the rear. rear brakes are volvo 2 piston discs and the fronts are celica supra struts/spindles/brakes. shooting for 300-350whp as an initial goal, dont even know if Il ever want more than that.

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im just wondering about holding power. the stg 4 is rated for 380-390tq which is a little more than i want but the stg 2 ones if i remember right "arent reccommended for forced induction" and were rated for about 250tq... id rather overbuild than underbuild as the price isnt much different. the last clutch i had in the car was a spec stg 3 rated for about the same, 380~ tq and an 11 lb flywheel and it drove like a dream

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A lot of that is marketing hogwash. The ceramic material is only worth about a 15% increase in holding power so, if the stage 4 is good for 380, the stage 2 is good for 320+ (those numbers are for a 3600 lbs lexus). The clutch transmits torque, not boost. I've been using a stage 2 EVO well over the "recommended" power for several years now and it has held up fine.

 

Your call though.

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so the stage 4 is rated at 250% increase, 350 wtq

stage 2 is rated for 80% increase, no torque numbers given that i could find.( edit: just found the rating of 250wtq) you may be right about the marketing and ass covering hogwash. i wish they made something in between... a stage 3 maybe ? lol. i do know that i will be launching this car hard and beating on it when i drive it so im leaning towards a 6 puck disc for longevity

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Once again, not very exciting but today I pulled the control arms off and burnt the bushings out, pressed new ones in, ground em down and painted them. ordered center link,,idler arm, ball joint, tie rod ends, and front pads and slotted rotors for the celica supra brakes Il be running.

   Side note I don't have a press so I got crafty with a bottle jack and the under side of a truck frame and pressed them in like a boss.

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Little shot of some intercooler piping mocking up

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update, got some parts in the mail finally, and scored a sweet eaton g80 locker from a volvo 940 the other day. tore the diff down to mod it a bit:

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this is the governor pawl that lets the diff lock. the counterweight on it disengages at around 25 so that the diff cant lock above that speed.

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counterweight cut off, now diff can lock under wheelspin at any speed.

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back together, checked for locking, good to go!

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got some new steering and suspension components, gonna paint them up before they rust all up

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finally, heres the brake setup I'm running in the front, cant put on car though til I get strut inserts/build coilovers....

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that's all for now but will be throwing the diff in soon, buttoning up front end, steering, brakes, brakelines yada yada

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  • 3 weeks later...

Made some more progress with the car, finished up my trans mounting points and welded em to the car.

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that was the last thing I needed the engine/trans in place for so then I pulled it out, got the bay all painted up, and did a bunch of painting/rustproofing underneath while trans was out of way.

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 then, chucked it all back in ( not for the last time, still have to pull it out one more time for clutch) but not before pulling down subframe and painting that. 

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mocked up some intrcooler stuff and ran a little body  wiring. that's all for now folks!

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Thanks guys appreciate the encouragement for sure. Still tons to do. Yea I heard that in the volvo world these diffs arent bulletproof and break with abuse/drag racing as well as axles. Im hoping that with considerably less weight and maybe a little finesse haha, it will last. Who knows.. i guess time will tell.

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